New guy looking for clarification on swapping barrels

Hello! ;D

Not new to firearms, not new to Savages but I AM new to swapping barrels. I've gone through the FAQs, used the search function, asked my friend Mr Google and traded messages with a couple of barrel swappers I've met through other forums and I have a pretty good handle on what's needed and involved with swapping barrels plus the limitations of caliber choices vs action lengths.

Here's what I haven't been able to get any solid info on: Once I change a barrel, I know I'll have to work with the new set-up to get the best accuracy. Once I have the base rifle zeroed and then the new barrel zeroed, will I have to go back to square one each time I swap the barrels or just torque the action screws to whatever I have found to be the best setting, re-zero the scope and have fun?

Now I think I have a pretty good idea of the answer but just as an example, I'd like to pick up a long action and have barrels for .257 Roberts, 6.5x55 and 7x57 (I know they overlap each other but just ignore that part for now... ;D). If I kept the same scope mounted, I'd obviously have to re-zero each time I changed caliber but would the torque settings for the action screws be the same for each barrel? If the settings were different for each barrel, would bedding the action help reduce the difference?

I'm pretty sure once the action screws are torqued, it would be the same no matter the caliber as long as the barrels were of comparable length/weight but I figured I'd ask those who have a better idea than I.

Hopefully that wasn't clear as mud.... :o

Thanks! ;D

I think you are right the action screws should stay at whatever you use for torque the barrel threads barrel nut etc wil probably be enough different to require rezero I don't do that much barrel swapping but I have to remove the scope when I do so need to rezero anyway

Thanks, common sense tells me if the action goes back the same then the only adjustment should be to the scope. Then again, some things just defy common sense... :D

In case your base screws are long, you'll need to remove the front scope base.

And you should have the same load perform the same after the barrel re-install. The Point of impact will change however.

Three 44s

If you have some way of noting the numerical position of the adjustment turrets, you might record them and go to those settings each time you go to that barrel. I know most scopes do not, but a tactical type or similar might allow you to do this.

I agree about the action, should be no change there, only the zero.

That's good to hear, the law of averages indicates my thought process is bound to be correct at least some of the time... :D

If I go this route, I'd have a different scope for each barrel so that would eliminate major scope adjustments (in theory) and I'll keep the base screw issue in mind. If nothing else, they can be shortened if they pose an issue.

I know I read in a couple of threads about a BR shooter doing this but I didn't know if their set-up was substantially different from what the casual shooter may encounter. I've never played at benchrest, I don't have the patience or personality for it.

Now I just wonder if Academy is going to have an after Christmas sale on those Stevens 200s that didn't move last week.... ;D

Thanks again all!

You are certainly getting your ducks in a row if this is your first Savage and you have not bought it yet but getting much of the facts straight first ...... KUDOS!

You are right, if the front base screws are not dragging on the barrel threads ... there is no foul. You just won't be able to tell until you swap out that first barrel.

On my first (and only swap to date) I thought I would get to skate by the suggestion to check firing pin protrusion ........ well, as an after thought, I did and it was out of whack. And it's a bit of a tongue twister getting that little star shaped lock to drop and allow you to adjust it. There are a series of articles written here in Savage Shooters that are accessible to paid members. The twelve bucks for year one is well worth it and "BillPa" did a great write up specifically about firing pin adjustment.

I would be sure and buy a barrel nut wrench that has the 1/2" square for breaker bar or flex handle and acquire a long handled one of either. Don't bang on the nut wrench ........ just make sure your nut wrench stays totally perpendicular with the barrel and nut and good firm pressure on the flex or breaker. One added suggestion is to use a zip tie to keep the nut wrench and added leverage tool together. It's easy to run out hands when you are up to your armpits in alligators. And the two best ways to bugger up the nut or your nut wrench is to get a good strain on and then let the train jump the tracks.

I think you're in good shape. You are certainly doing your home work way in advance and I'd just suggest the paid membership so you can get ALL the benefits of this FINE web site!

Welcome and may your stay be enjoyable and "plentiful"!

Three 44s

Not to cause a barrel swapping war ;D but honestly I see no value in swapping barrels unless it's shot out, with the decent prices of Savage buy 3 of your favorite calibers scope them to desire and enjoy, on the other hand if you simply like to tinker in the shop then buy used and swap away, hopefully someone can clear up why the desire to change barrels, I simply see no value in it.

I'm not to start a swapping war either . ;D

I'm one of those guys that believe in it, for my personal use.

As I have stated before on this forum. I have a VLP,( 22-250) put a Bushnell Elite 8 X 32 on it.

Took the money that I would have in two more scopes, actions, stocks, etc. & had Fred, T&T the action, & put one of his triggers on it. Also had him provide me a complete 223 bolt. I'm very happy with his work, first class.

Now have three barrels, a Shilen 223, McGowen 22-250, & Rem 6mm, all in the varmint contour. I intend in 2010 to “dial up “ Jim again, & order a Shilen 6BR. Then I'll have 4 barrels to tinker with.

Since I'm a tinker at heart, & one of those people who is always trying some different bullet/powder/primer/seating depth, etc., I can “tinker” a lot.

It also lets me , with the same rifle/scope/trigger combination. get use to shooting the same rifle, & as God know, I need all the help I can get.

Swapping is not for every one, but it's fun for me. :D

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Swapping is not for every one, but it's fun for me.

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That is good enough reason for me, I just can't see it in terms of time to make changes,scope reset, etc. I don't like to remove scope once set up and I'm shooting .500 groups or less, but that is what I love about shooting sport so many difference in use of equipment.

another advantage, more room in the safe, but the biggest one.

when the wife happens to ask, how many guns, rifles do you have now.

I can truthfully say, for the savage , ONE, can't count the the extra barrels ;D

I never remove the scope. It takes maybe 5-8 minutes to change barrels, & re head space.

I do have to re sight it in for the different barrel, & also for the different bullets. for the 223, & 22-250 I load both the 50 g. V-Max, & the 75 gr. A-Max,

In the 6mm, I load both the 75 gr. V-Max, & 105 A-max, so yes I have to re sight in for each barrel, & bullet. I made a "cheat" card for each caliber. swap a barrel, adjust the scope to the cheat card, then shoot a few rds, as it's usually with in a inch or two.

At the range one day I had my 223 on , & it was shooting great. I swap to the 6mm, & a guy at the next bench said I was crazy to change the barrel, I would never get the 223 back to where it was. after about 45 minutes of shooting the 6mm & 22-250, I put the 223 back on, adjusted the scope, & no change in the accuracy. shot as tight as when I first had it on. in my case, I don't see any changes in accuracy, but then I'm not a BR shooter, I'm just a tinker :)

chestsprings hit on it for me in a roundabout way. I've had to part with more of my collection/accumulation than I wanted to. I found in many cases I was more attached to the caliber than the firearm. The Savages give me the opportunity to regain some of those calibers at a lower cost than if I replaced each rifle individually.

I've tried the Contender route and just wasn't happy with them once the new wore off. Can't say why, it just happens that way sometimes. I picked up a couple of Mauser actions with the intention of building them up. Had I done the research for them that I am now doing for the Savage, I would have realized I don't have the tools to do it properly, I can't afford the proper tools or to have a 'smith do it and the tooling I have isn't sufficient to build my own gunsmithing tools. Plus, I have just enough ability to screw up a perfectly good project after making twice as hard as it needs to be. :D

Another benefit is fewer things to haul to the range and more tigger time on the same platform. The past few range sessions, I've paid attention to what I actually shot vs what I brought. Usually only half the things I bring get shot and I found I spent too much time having to get reacquainted with each firearm. That can't be good for consistency.

I have a 10FP .308 I traded into several years ago that is a joy to shoot. I fell to the temptation of the Academy sale on Stevens 200s a couple of weeks ago so I now have a 7-08 as well. If it shoots half as well as the .308, I'll have no complaints other than the loose trigger nut.