Savage 10FP Stiff Bolt

So my brother just got a Savage Model 10FP from Cabela's for $499. After fiddling with it, we noticed that the bolt is a little tough to close. Once it starts to close a little bit, it closes the rest of the way easily. But just right when you push it forward all the way it doesn't want to start to close. Has anyone else had a similar problem or does anyone have any ideas on what I can try. I saw somewhere that they machine the bolt and action to match on the 10FP so that it's more precise, I'm wondering if they machined the bolt a couple thousandths of an inch too long. As always, any help would be greatly appreciated.

-James.

Try some grease on the bolt's locking lugs, it could be dry.

Could I just use gun lubricating oil or is there some sort of gun grease I should use?

I wouldn't use oil (too thin, but it's better than nothing), try something like Super Lube Gun Grease or RIG Universal. Wheel bearing grease if you've got any. Just a thin coat.

Great, thanks for the tip. I'll try that and bug you again if it doesn't work ;D.

It will ease up with some use as well.

Quote:

---

It will ease up with some use as well.

---

It was pre-owned, so it's been worked a few times. I guess I should've mentioned that to begin with.

Make sure the action screws and scope mount screws are not a little too long making contact with the bolt.

James,

Did any of the suggestions help? ???

The gun grease seemed to help. It's still pretty stiff, but it's definitely easier than it was.

-James.

James,
The bolt head may be rubbing on the front action screw, which protrudes into the action from the bottom. Pull the bolt out of the action and see if you see any obvious rub marks - that should tell you where to concentrate your search. You can loosen it (the front action screw) a little or take the action out of the stock and see if the bolt is easier to operate. If so, file or grind a little off the screw, which should clear it up. The scope mount screws are not likely contributors - they may hit the barrel threads, but unlikely to impede bolt throw. Also look at he stock where the bolt handle closes into the stock and see if there is any evidence of rub marks.

If you really want to rule out the front action screw as the culprit, take the screw all the way out with the bolt open. Clean off the end of the screw, then wipe a dab of red lipstick on it (remember what it looked like). Put the screw back in. Open / close the bolt a few times. Remove the front action screw and see if the lipstick is smeared. But, don't tell anybody you are using lipstick on your gun - they'll have a laugh on you......
Elkbane

This may be a little more than you want to do, but this is what I did to a catchy closing bolt. :o
First before doing this you may want to follow the suggestions of the other posters to make sure there really is not another reason for the stiff closure of your bolt. ;) Then procede with caution.
The rear baffle has a ball bearing which fits into a groove on the bolt body. I noticed on my bolt body this groove was a bit deep. After much tinkering..I discovered that the stiff closing at the very top of the stroke was caused by this ball bearing that must ride out of the groove and follow along the bolt body itself. I simply...but very carefully used a dremel with stone attachment to ease the edge down a little bit allowing the ball bearing to ride out of this groove much easier. I am still working on mine, but I am in the process of finding a suitable lubricant to ease the ball bearing's ride.
This made a huge difference in the closing force of the bolt....very smoooth!
This modification cannot be seen at all without removal of the rear baffle.
Just my 2 cents. :o

bassman

Right on, thanks guys! I am going to see my brother again this weekend and I'm excited that we'll have some different things to try. I'll make sure to keep you posted whether or not we get it smoothed out.

-James.

I posted about a problem with the rear baffle on my Model 12 and here's the photo I took (shows the groove bassman was talking about). Keep in mind its a left hand bolt so it looks backwards (to you rightys).

[img width=600 height=394]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/pbcaster45/Model11BoltRearBaffle.jpg[/img]

Thanks for that picture pbcaster. Bassman, I'm almost sure that's what the problem is. That would explain why it is so hard at the top of the stroke but then easy once you get it started. Looks like I have some dremeling to do!

-James.

I shortened up the baffle ball spring; no need for that much tension. I also polished the "raceway" where the baffle rides on the bolt. Every little bit helps.

Kevin

James

I removed the entire firing pin assembly from my bolt. Then re-assemble bolt without firing pin. I had everything removed such as barrel, scope bases, and just had the bare action in my hand. This way you remove all other forces at work to catch anything that might be wrong. I was simply cycling the bolt with attention to why it was catchy. With only the rear baffle and lugs locking up you can see that at this point of the cycle that that little ball bearing thing was the only thing keeping the bolt from smooth cycling. After my modification the bolt cycled much better. This is just one thing you can do to alleviate the force needed to make the bolt cycle easier. The other posters gave points to polish also that can help. After I assembled my bolt with the firing pin, some of the stiffness came back. I think that there is just a little bit we as tinkerers can do to help this problem, but without gunsmith machining (that only they can do) the design of the firing pin and cocking mechanism will lend itself to a little stiffness anyway.
This is just half the equation...the closing force! ;D
There is a whole other equation in the opening force too that has been extensively discussed. I have not addressed that yet on my bolt, but hope to soon. I fear that there is only so much that can be done due to the actual design of the system.
Aircraftmech,
I can only see ball bearings in my rear baffle. Is there also a spring in there? I really couldnt tell. How would you remove them? I am a little spooked to try to do this as I might not get it back together correctly.

Bassman

Yep, that's it. If you take a small screwdriver you can push the ball into the baffle. You remove the ball by depressing it into its hole, and removing it through the side of the baffle (where that big hole is there in the side). That being said, BE SUPER CAREFUL, 'cause that baby's gonna launch out of there like a rocket it you aren't careful. I suggest putting it in a closed ziplock bag, and poking a screwdriver or probe through the bag to contain everything if it gets away from you. Just trim a half coil at a time, and track your progress. I trimmed mine until it was easy to turn the baffle by hand.

Kevin

James

Sorry to ask a question in your thread. Not trying to hijack! ;)

Kevin

Thank you for your response. I think both james and myself may benefit from that info! ;D

Bassman

You are most welcome...

Kevin

Quote:

---

James

Sorry to ask a question in your thread. Not trying to hijack!

Kevin

Thank you for your response. I think both james and myself may benefit from that info!

---

Not a problem! I definitely learned from that. It seems like these mods are pretty simple. I'm surprised they aren't popular on this site.

-James.