accutrigger trouble

Hey guys,

I just got my new barreled action back from SSS, and put my rifle together. Shoots great, but I'm having trouble with the Accutrigger.

I was hoping for a pull weight below 2 pounds. The trouble is when I turn it down (with the little Accutrigger "pin wrench") to anywhere less than 2 pounds pull, the trigger trips when I close the bolt. At about two pounds it won't "self trip" if I close the bolt gently. The lower it goes the more easily it trips, all the way until it is impossible to close the bolt without tripping the trigger. I found a happy medium before going to the range yesterday, and it worked fine for about half of the shooting. Then, halfway through, no matter how carefully I closed the bolt, the trigger tripped. Increasing the pull weight solved the problem, but now I'm back to a 2-3 pound trigger pull!

I have the "hunting" version Accutrigger in my long action Savage hunting rifle, and turned all the way down it goes to about 2 pounds, which is fine. Judging by the fact that there is still a lot of adjustment left below 2 pounds, I believe the trigger I'm having trouble with is the Varmint Accutrigger. I actually really like the feel of the Accutrigger, but is there anything I can do short of replacing it? Anything else that might be out of adjustment or need some TLC?

Thanks!

...Find you a smaller dia. sear wire.... ;)

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Originally Posted by 1Shot

...Find you a smaller dia. sear wire.... ;)

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?

uj

I get chastised every time I mention this, because people just don't understand the relationship between the two, but get rid of the BT bolt handle and get something lighter like a SSS.

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Originally Posted by 82boy

I get chastised every time I mention this, because people just don't understand the relationship between the two, but get rid of the BT bolt handle and get something lighter like a SSS.

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I wouldn't mind an explanation of the relationship between the bolt handle and the accutrigger. . . I am one of those that does not understand. . .

Thanks!

Adam

The added weight of the bolt handle creates more inertia when it closes, when it comes to a sudden stop at the bottom of the stroke the energy has to transfer some were, whet it does is create a shock wave and trips the trigger, just like hitting the stock with you hand or an instrument. A lighter handle creates less of a shock wave, therefore allowing the trigger weight to be dropped lower, and not causing a "Slam fire," or tripping the trigger. (What ever you want to call it.)

Oh I see, thanks!!

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Originally Posted by 82boy

I get chastised every time I mention this, because people just don't understand the relationship between the two, but get rid of the BT bolt handle and get something lighter like a SSS.

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.....called...gravity. :)

Thanks for the input. That's a good place to start. At trigger pull settings near or below 1.5 pounds, the trigger trips even if I gently close the bolt...very slowly...holding on to the bolt handle the whole way. Is this just the way the lighter Accutriggers work (or don't...) in general, or did I get a bad apple? If so, is there anything I can do with this bad apple to allow a trigger pull in the 1-1.5 pound range, short of trashing it?

Until you get some good 'gunsmithy' type advise, I'll give you the same advise the infamous patient gets from his doctor when he complains that 'it hurts when I raise my arm above my shoulder..'; "Well, don't do that anymore". In this case, there may be a trigger fix, a lot of us with the target actions had similar problems with our factory set triggers sitting at 8-10 ozs (or what ever they were set at). We ended up bumping the weight up little by little until the problem went away. I too like the feel of the accu-trigger and have decided to live with the slightly higher weight. Not sure if the lighter bolt or different diameter sear spring thingy will work or not. I think I would go with a SSS trigger before I experimented with a lighter bolt, unless you've already decided you like the PTG or SSS bolt and want one. I'm still on the fence on that one myself....

OK, and now for the big question (and I suspect I've read the answer somewhere but can't find it again): I've heard good things about the SSS trigger. If I order one, can I install it myself, and will a new trigger negate the timing job I had done by SSS only weeks ago?

I bought a flcp-k in 25-06 and it does the same thing. Since becoming a Savage owner about 2 years ago I now have 3 and 1 I built. All of the actions should be the varmint models and it seems all of the triggers adjust and react differently. The 25-06 does the trip thing but also seems super light when it does go off. It has the accustock and I found the action screw tightness effected this as well, I just found the right combination between the accutrigger and action screws and don't take it appart anymore.

May I offer an observation? Someone on this site previously gave me the great idea of removing the center blade from my accu-trigger. This was worth the cost of membership alone. I don't have an accu-trigger anymore that has a center blade. That might not appeal to you-but it DOES to me. Further, here's how my removal of center blades ties into the OP's problem;

After removing the center blade, I found that the gun would accidentally discharge if I had the A/T set on a lower setting (yes, I tested & figured all of this out BEFORE I actually put live ammo in it). With that in mind, I wanted BOTH the center blade gone, and a light trigger (1-2lb.). This was my goal. I figured out pretty quickly that the reason the triggers trip so easily is that there is too little sear to trigger arm engagement. Yep, too little. I figured that if I increased the contact area between the trigger arm, and the sear, that the gun would then be safe. I proved this theory. I sanded on the trigger arm allowing the sear tip to sit lower in the groove. This works. However, there is a trade-off. As you increase the contact area, so increases the pull of the actual trigger. But not by much.

I now have my son's 12FV in .223 down to 1lb-2lb. and it is safe. Safe meaning I can arm the weapon and slam the butt of the stock on the ground, slam the bolt closed, put it on safe and yank on the trigger then click the safety off-and the gun won't discharge.

I also replaced the sear re-set spring as 1shot suggested with a spring that has an o/d of 0.035". All told, the trigger is excellent. It is as good now as any after-market trigger I have experienced. Well, as good as any after-market HUNTING trigger. Some of the target triggers are incredible.

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Originally Posted by AKArcherdaddy

OK, and now for the big question (and I suspect I've read the answer somewhere but can't find it again): I've heard good things about the SSS trigger. If I order one, can I install it myself, and will a new trigger negate the timing job I had done by SSS only weeks ago?

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Which trigger, they sell two, a competition, and the evolution. The comp trigger yeas you can install your self, and yes it will need re-timed (Sent back to SSS) to that trigger. The evolution trigger must be sent to them.

82boy,

I'm not ready to throw down for the Evolution trigger, and I hear the Competition trigger is pretty good. That's the one I was considering. The fact that I would have to send the action back to SSS to get it re-timed kinda makes that option less appealing. It's really hard to wait and gather parts for five months and then have to turn around and send it back! I may opt for it in the end, or I might order and install the competition trigger myself and then see how it feels before sending it back. In the meantime I'll keep learning what I can from the good folks here. Sounds like I already have a few things I can try.

Anyone with more suggestions, I'm still listening!

Update: I went home armed with the new knowledge and suggestions gained. I had an extra sear spring so I pulled the pin that holds the trigger/sear/sear spring in place just as the phone rang...poof, the sear return spring disappeared into space. Lucky I had another. I cleaned things up really nicely, figured out how to get the trigger back together, replaced the missing spring with the extra I had, and now I can get the trigger down to about 1 pound pull before it starts tripping, although it still trips at that setting of I really slam the bolt down. Good enough for me! If I take the rifle hunting I'll turn the trigger up a bit anyway. Thanks to all for their help and suggestions. I'm good to go.

Just for the record my target AccuTrigger will go all the way down to what is supposed to be 6 ounces and it won't click from being bumped. I have got it to click once or twice but I was trying to see how hard it would have to be hit to go off. I know the AT stops the firing process but that's something I prefer not to count on.