Stripped Screw removal NOT working.

I have received a new screw in the mail from savage for my front most receiver hole. The head of the screw is stripped not the actual threads. I have blunted a tip for my soldering iron so I would have the most surface area so it would heat. After holding the soldering iron for seriously fifteen minutes on the rear screw and it still wouldn't budge. My plan was to remove that screw so I could drill the stripped screw head off then lift the base off then turn the remaining screw piece out with a vise grips. Every single screw on the whole rifle is in so tight it's not even funny. I was bending the Allen wrench and it wouldn't budge. I have decided to leave the bases on and not mess with it until after the youth hunt. Then I'm going to take it to a gunsmith have them remove the screws and buy a Dnz game reaper mount and install it myself. This is getting a little ridiculous. I'm not very pleased with savage. First a stripped screw from the factory and now all of the screws won't budge. Not happy.

I warm the receiver up with a heat gun to remove them. That front screw bottoms out into the barrel threads and it can be a booger if the scope base got put on with the screw too long.

The front screw head is stripped. I was trying to get the one behind it off. So I could drill the head of the front screw off pull the rail off and twist the remaining screw piece out with a vice grips.

I'm thinking by heating the screw you're making it expand in the hole making it tighter?
I'd give it a couple of shots of Kroil ( amazing stuff) over a couple of days ( I know, I know, but sometimes It just takes time for it to penetrate.) then probably try an ez out, unless it's something I could cut a slot in for a large screw driver without damaging anything else.

Do you have a pic?

How do you use an easy out? Because my main goal is just to replace that stripped screw with one of the 2 savage sent me.

You put it in the hole and turn it. It has teeth that work like reverse threads and bite into the screw head as you turn it.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ez+o...h=567&dpr=1.33

Here's a video but if you have a stripped hex head screw the tool should fit right in the hole and remove the screw with a little penetrating oil and some time anyway.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts

I thought we explained all this in your previous thread.

Do you try using the screw extractors?

If you ever do get to the point of installing the screws make sure you use gun oil on the threads and snug them down a tad over hand tight.

I have encountered the same problem. What caused this was just after I got the rifle I had the stock off couple times. I was removing the stock again and I started to loosen the screw closet to the rear of the rifle that would be the butt stock not the forearm.
I could not get that screw to loosen...I stripped the hex out of the head of the screw. I tried to drill the head of the screw but that was a bad idea the head of the screw was too hard for the drill bits that I have.
The solution that worked perfectly was using a dremal motor with a burring bit that was 1/8" dia. and with a bit that was made of carbide. High speed steel will not work.
I carefully used the high speed of the dremal and the carbide bit to grind the head of the screw off. Make sure the rifle is steady and use both hands to operate the dremal because if the bit catches it could scar up the metal on the trigger guard.
Anyway, as I was delicately grinding the metal away and gradually making small increments in a circle fashion the head popped off of the screw. I only went deep enough down in the top of the screw so that there was no more metal holding the head onto the screw shank.
After the head was off I was able to get the stock off to tackle an over tightened screw or so I thought. When I touched the headless screw I was able to unscrew it with my fingers.
That screw was under so much tension that it was impossible to get it loose and the hex did not last.
I should have loosened the other screw first on the muzzle end. That would have decreased the tension on the other screw first. Live and learn.
I thought about taking some pictures so to make a better presentation of this problem and maybe others could avoid it. Right now I am away from home on a work assignment or I would do a photo guide to show exactly what went on...I still the little head of the screw to show how much to grind out of the center in the of the screw.
This is important especially those that don't have much experience with using a hand held high speed tool. They will catch and jump to some place that will be undesirable...so hold on to the tool with both hands and use eye protection!
Back to the bit that I used. As stated above bit was the same diameter from one end to the other end and was 0.125" in dia. The cutting end of the bit was just rounded over but not a distinct ball it looks a half of a ball on the end of the bit. And is solid carbide. These cost more but high speed steel will not do the job. McMaster Carr, Grainger have these bits.
The screw was the longer one not the short one.

You can also turn the screw using a good small punch and hammer, just light taps will start the screw to turn.