A guy is asking $250 locally for this rifle... Is it worth 250? It's older, wood stock.
Can it be re-barreled easily like the 111,112,116 models?
He is throwing in some ammunition and Leupold bases.
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A guy is asking $250 locally for this rifle... Is it worth 250? It's older, wood stock.
Can it be re-barreled easily like the 111,112,116 models?
He is throwing in some ammunition and Leupold bases.
My opinion: Some of the things to look at:
Serial number? (That will help you id how old it is.)
If it is a detachable magazine, does the stock have a button in the side to release the magazine (Nothing wrong with this, but very hard to find aftermarket DMB stocks that fit. I believe it is relatively easily converted to a blind mag, however. - someone please correct me if this last statement is not true.
Flat back or round back?
Are the scope mounts/bases permanently attached? (I have an older flat back that has front and rear bases permanently attached, likely silver soldered on.) Not necessarily a bad thing, but limits your scope position front to rear, especially with newer shorter scopes. The only way to find out is to remove the current rings, if there are any and look for screw holes in the bases. From what you said about him offering leupold bases, the answer is likely no.
If he will allow you to take the action out of the stock, look to see if it is a three screw trigger. If there is an adjustment screw directly under the sear (on the forward part of the actual trigger) that is a good thing.
Look for rust hidden by the stock.
Yes it can easily be rebarreled.
If it is in relatively good condition (no serious rust) and has the three-screw trigger, it is probably worth the $250 (I've bought worse at that price). If not, you can try to get the seller to come down, but it's probably not a bad deal.
It all depends on what you want it for. For example, if it has a side release magazine (normally considered a con), but you want to keep the original wood stock that is on it, then that is not a con.
Also: read this: http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...Things-To-Know
Thanks. I went ahead and purchased it. I really want a brush gun/pickup gun that I don't worry about beating up. I paid $240, it came with rings, base, an extra set of rings, the stock iron sights, a box of 30-06 ammo and 40 pieces of 1 fired brass.
Pictures speak 1000 words. He actually only lived 2 blocks away so it was an easy transaction. I cleaned the rifle out with copper cleaner and it's pretty decent now.
http://imageshack.us/a/img163/4903/u7iw.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img801/9435/nrdx.jpg
I can't view that link for some reason.
Wow! Looks to be in very good condition :)
For 250 you got a good deal. It aint new but it is nice looking and it was 250. Did I mention it was 250?
Nice rifle and price. It has extended length rings that can fit a short tube scope like a Nikon Prostaff. It looks like an older flat top receiver. Its a non laser etched bolt. You bought an example of an old Savage in almost new condition. Walnut even.
Thanks. Yeah, I think I did well. I paid $240, but who's counting? :)
The guy was upgrading to a 700 in 280 Remington and let it go for a god price in my book.
Can I do a 6.5 creedmoor conversion with a long action?
Yup, '06 to Creemoor with just a barrel swap. Creedmoor will feed great from the LA magazine.
Move fast...there's a creedmore barrel for sale in the classifieds.
You did good. It is a really nice gun and it has a nice stock on it. If you end up wanting a build where you replace the stock, barrel, bases and rings and sell those here you can easily recuperate over $100... that would leave you with a long action/bolt/.473 bolthead(probably the most common bolthead) for 150 or less... and that is a steal.....
Saw the creedmoor barrel for sale. No idea what other tools I need... I assume a wrench and a go/nogo gauge? Have to make sure I have enough funds to switch to 6.5 before I take the plunge.
before you get too excited lets see a pic of the bolt head. That will tell a lot as to how easy it is to rebarrel. If it has the old (very old) bolt head that wraps around the case head those barrels have a recess cut into the chamber. If it is the newer style then all is good.
Here is a pic of the bolt face.
http://imageshack.us/a/img825/9436/u46m.jpg
That's the current style of bolt head. You should be good to go.
Thanks. Now I just have to wait as the one for sale is sold pending funds. :(
There's plenty you can do in the mean time. I'd probably start with the trigger (is it a 3 screw?)
I haven't pulled it apart to check.
The trigger is already pretty light. It breaks clean. I added a 3-9x40 vortex scope today.
It's using leupold base and rings. Anyone have a idea of the scope torque ring specs? Around 22/inch lbs I assume?
I need the same info for that side flathead screw. I have the windage adjustable rings that fit the leupold base if that helps.
Dont assume that, make sure. Call leupold unless you can find the specs in paper somewhere. I have seen rings specs for 15 inch/lbs and I have seen them up to 25 inch/lbs...
Used the google foo. Leupold has a YouTube video. 18-22 inch lbs on the rings and bases and 45 inch lbs on the side screws.
Not to hijack the thread but may I pontificate upon torqueing allen screws?
They are so small that they don't take much torque. I am amazed at how many stripped allen head screws I run across. It is more important to get an even torque on all four screws. Then let the Loctite hold them permanently.
Screws that have been removed and retightened can have a wide range of torque required to reset them. All four screws may require a different torque setting. Always hold the Allen wrench the same way in your hand. End of pontification.
Took it to the range. This thing is a shooter. Got it sighted in at 50 yards 2" low. Going to buy some more bullets and get it sighted in properly at 100 yards next trip.
.....Get you a 6.5 Swede and buy some brass from thomae. :thumb: