Scope mounts drilled off-center, How many have you had?

I have 2 savage and 1 stevens action where I had to use 10-20 moa burris inserts to get it on paper. The stevens action is the worst, got 20 moa to push it left and 20 moa to push is down on the rear. I'm using weaver or warne steel bases. I've tried switching the bases and rings around, not much difference. I've mounted scopes on 4 other savage actions and had to use inserts on 2 of those as well.

Anybody else have this bad luck? Am I right assuming it's the base holes being offcenter? Or could it be a twisted action straight from the factory?

Merry Christmas...

Are these flat rear reciever actions? If so you have to have the right scope base. I had a model 99 yrs ago that had the scope mounting holes grossly offset to the left. Got tid of that one in a hurry. If you bought those new you should have called Savage o get it taken care of.
El Lobo

I have one of the 80s flat back the was off a lot. finally plugged the holes and redrilled them. Used guns you can do that and not feel bad.

While trying too remove the scope mounting bases from a recent action purchase. The previous owner had lock tited the base screws which resulted in twisting the torx driver off in the screw head. Luckly it was the scope base screw hole opposite the front action mounting screw. While setting the action up in the mill to drill through the screw I notice the action rocked when placed scope base down on the mill table. It was like the front base was at 12 oclock position and the rear base was at the 12:10 position. I'm sure when the build is finished it will be interesting getting it sighted.

These are all round receivers, ranging from 2005 - 2008 in yr. Buying burris signature rings has became my rule for rings. My bases sit tight on the action with no movement left/right, etc.

I use the bases with the twist lock front and windage adjustable rear mount, so I dont have any issues with windage, but all of my savages, 3 flat rear and 4 round rear actions have from 5 to 15 inserts in them for elevation, my round rear 22-250 has a 15 in the back and a minus 10 in the front to get it close with the scopes elevation knob centered.

Mike

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Originally Posted by jb177

Or could it be a twisted action straight from the factory?

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This is where I would place my money. The old flat back Savage receivers was hand ground and they where not the straitist things either, but nothing bedding the bases cant fix.

These are round actions. Are people finding those actions to be twisted as well?

I'm on my 8th Savage/Stevens action and not a single one required correction. Most are round rear actions but I do have one older flat rear.

I don't buy into the twisted action story. Suspect that the CNC programing has a small glich causing the indexing not too properly register each and every time. Just like the stepper motors used in your printers the milling machines use stepper motors for the x-y-z axis movement and another for rotational indexing. Depending on the stepper motor design you can get into seconds of a degree rotation. Try that with older none computerized mills.

They are Drilled Straight..... The Heat treatment After can cause a lil Warping. Bed the Base << That&#39;s Not Plural and rock on... Unless you just get one that is WAY out.

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Originally Posted by ~Ace~

They are Drilled Straight..... The Heat treatment After can cause a lil Warping. Bed the Base << That&#39;s Not Plural and rock on... Unless you just get one that is WAY out.

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+1

I have several Savage and Stevens 200 actions including one flatback, and all of mine have been straight with no problems.

Guess you guys prefer one piece bases. What do you use to bed them?

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Originally Posted by jb177

Guess you guys prefer one piece bases. What do you use to bed them?

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JB Weld or Devcon

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Originally Posted by jb177

Guess you guys prefer one piece bases. What do you use to bed them?

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Nope, I prefer a two piece base. Bedded with epoxy.

Thanks for all the input. I personally prefer two piece bases and it allows easier loading and unloading via the bolt. It&#39;s not a big deal, I just don&#39;t like having my scope sighted in with little movement left either l/r or up/down. You never know how the next load you try will shoot and may need a few more inches here or there to make it go where you want it.

Tell me again hwo the bedding of the bases fixes or help fix the issue? I&#39;m not seeing how that helps when there is no slop in the holes in the bases. I can see where it gives it more support, but I can&#39;t imagine putting that much force on the steel bases to make them wobble?

Thanks again for the help. I learn something new everyday, sometimes it&#39;s the same thing I learned before, but that&#39;s another story.

Okay I&#39;m interested too in how the bedding fixes this problem. Maybe this is just another of those ideas floating around like using Lock-Tite between the receiver and aluminum bases.

Bedding works the same way as a stock, it make better contact, it also keeps them from moving. On the flat back receivers they are usually ground at a slope, so you take and build up one side to even out the slope. Certain mount makers recamend bedding mounts and have made their mounts with groves for more bedding surface. (One that comes to mind is Ken Farrell.)

...I&#39;ve never seen a straight 1 yet...I&#39;ve got a bunch...They&#39;re bushed from .020-.040 on all of them... :-X...If the bbl. was&#39;nt soo easy to change, I would&#39;nt own any of them... :-X

I own a model 111 that is drilled canted (off center) from the factory. Its one of the things on the list to get fixed when I get the money. Its just being a safe queen for now untill I get it fixed.

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Originally Posted by jb177

Tell me again hwo the bedding of the bases fixes or help fix the issue?

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If you have an action that isn&#39;t perfectly straight, mounting a one-piece base to that action will cause the base to flex when tightened down. Then when you mount the rings to the base, they will not be true to each other. When you seat your scope and tighten the out-of-line rings, your tube will be torqued and that could result in internal damage, tube damage, inaccurate adjustments, etc. Bedding a one piece base will allow you mount the base firmly, wthout torquing it out of true. But I don&#39;t know how that does anything to realign holes that don&#39;t line up straight with the axis of the bore. And I&#39;ve never bedded a two-piece base. Do you have to attach the rings and scope all together to give the true layout for the bases as you bed them?
Golly, I like signature rings!

For minor elevation correction, Brownells sells stainless steel shims in packages and thse can be placed under either base to change the height by a small amount. I had to shim the rear base of my Model 16 SA about .02" to get the scope&#39;s elevation setting near center.

For windage problems, Millet sells Weaver-type rings that have significant windage adjusment in the mounting screws.

How do you bed a base, is installing a new base and bedding it something that a novice can do?