Anybody got their CBI barrel from Northlander yet?

I've got an email in to Jim this morning, but thought I would query the forum to see if I'm missing anything...

Got a 260 Rem CBI tube & SS recoil lug this week from Northland Shooters Supply for my first true "build". Last week I did my first swap, removing a 204 barrel from a 12FV and replacing it with a factory takeoff 223 barrel from another 12FV - swap went well, it headspaced properly, and I can't wait to shoot it.

When I attempted to install the barrel on a 110 action this morning, I noticed that when I screw the barrel nut on the new CBI barrel that it stops when the "top" of the barrel nut reaches the end of the barrel threads, whereas on all 3 Savage barrels (both 12FV and the removed .270 barrel from the donor rifle) the "top" of the barrel nut goes approx. 0.4" beyond the end of the threads.

Using both the thicker NSS recoil lug and the OE Savage lug, I cannot get the barrel to headspace - the action contacts the recoil lug & barrel nut before the bolt contacts the go-gauge.

Basically, with the barrel nut screwed all the way on my Savage barrels I have approx. 1.1" of threads showing between the bottom of the barrel nut and the end of the threads; on the CBI barrel with the nut stopping earlier I only have about 0.7" of threads.

Suggestions?

unless there is a bump at the end of the threads the nut should continue till the threads run out. put your nut wrench on the nut and just using your hand see if it will screw on some more. it could be a rough spot on the threads (not uncommon on a new barrel) and the nut just needs to get past it. if it is a rough spot this will take care of it. remember to lube the threads before you put it all together with a touch of neversize or a spot of gun grease.

Gary

Got a call from Jim this morning...evidently the CBI barrel is a bit wider where the threads end than a factory Savage barrel, and the old-style barrel nut simply is running out of clearance. He discovered this by measuring multiple CBI barrels he has in stock, and trying both new & old-style barrel nuts to see exactly the issue.

A new-style barrel nut and I'll be good to go!

What exactly is the difference between the barrel nuts?
How do you tell "old style" from "new style"?

Old-style barrel nuts (like I had on my 15+ year old 110) have rounded grooves; new-style nuts have square grooves and, according to Jim, the upper 1/3" or so of the nut is smooth to create a "skirt" as the barrel nut is turned all the way on prior to installation & headspacing.

My old-style nut has threads to the very end, and there simply isn't enough clearance on the slightly fatter-than-stock CBI barrel for those threads to allow the nut to "skirt" the barrel.

Thank you. All of my nuts have square slots so I guess I'm good to go.