300 RUM question

Hi Everyone,

New member, long time browser. I've done a good bit of reading on this but want to pick some brains smarter than mine. I have a 300 RUM in 116 Weather Warrior that I bought new back in 2001. Since I've owned it, I've updated it with a Harris Bipod, and I'm currently using a Zeiss HD-5 for glass. It is a plain black factory syn stock, not an accustock. I've taken it apart to look at the bedding and it seems very simple. I have had trigger work done to the non-accutrigger and I love it. It has no creep or grit and breaks clean at about 2.9lbs. I'm considering doing two things. I'd like to remove the 90 degree twist factory brake because I haven't used it in years. and its a pain when I'm swinging it around in a deer stand. I'm told by my local gunsmith ( who does very nice work and has a great reputation), that I can expect some improvement in accuracy by taking that off and going to a comp crown. I would like to know who else has done this and how it shook out.
The other thing I would like to poll people on is if I am going to this trouble anyway, is it time to upgrade the stock. The gun as it is now is a sub MOA tack driver with 180 Swift Sciroccos in the factory power level 3 Remington factory loading. It has never failed me and has been extremely reliable.
But more is better... and I want to see what this thing is capable of as I've begun to hang around some pretty established long range shooters. The round count is under 250, so I expect quite a bit of life left in this barrel.

Thanks!

If with the break on it is sub moa, as they say if it isn’t broken don’t fix it. That extra inch and or two inches shouldn’t make that much difference in the stand. Now if you are planning to attach a can to your rifle that is a different story. As for stocks sky is the limit, you have to ask yourself what are your options for the future of this rifle. Is this a hunting setup to engage your deer or other big game at ranges beyond 300 yards to potentially a 1000 yards. Then the next question you have to ask yourself with this from a stationary standpoint or will you be hiking the hunt? Then you are looking at weight of your rifle. Or are you got to use this as a long range target rifle? Then this opens a new list of questions.


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You’re not going to see any discernible accuracy improvement by removing the brake. What you will gain is quite a bit more bone jarring, teeth rattling Recoil. In a light hunting gun it’s bound too be a thumper.

Thing is you are telling us it’s already a SUB MOA rifle. That is very good for a stock Savage in 300 RUM. Going to another stock May upset the accuracy. It may not.. after bedding, what not. Flip of the coin on knowing. If you are looking to change stocks in search of creature accuracy, I would advise against. If it’s because you simply would like a new look/style for the rifle, well then I’m all in favor. Part of the fun in this hobby is having gear we find aesthetically pleasing to us. (And I’ll call BS on anyone who says looks don’t matter!)

A change like that could change the accuracy for better or worse. You will not know until it is done. Savage factory brakes not the best. It was made to be cheap and simple. Any other brake would be a vast upgrade.
You can put a couple Nails through the factory break and use them to unscrew it. there should be a crown there already. You could test that for free.

Regarding the brake, if it's the old on/off brake you can remove it yourself. Might have to soak it with some penetrating oil.

https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ke-Disassembly
(right click images and choose "view image" for larger view of scanned images)

As others have noted, if it's a sub-MOA gun already I don't know if I'd mess with it. This is a hunting rifle and as such it only needs to shoot MOA or better out to 400-500 yards tops. Removing the brake could change the harmonics in the barrel and cause a significant change in accuracy. A stock swap could cause it's own accuracy headaches, but stock issues such as proper bedding and free floating of the barrel are easy things to address and fix yourself or have fixed by a competent gunsmith.

Welcome to the forum!

I'm solidly in the "ain't broke, don't fix it" camp on this one! If you are shooting sub MOA consistently with factory ammunition I would leave it exactly like it is. Any accuracy gains you would potentially get would be small and changes, especially permanent ones could possibly degrade or destroy what you already have.

All good points Guys, thanks for the feedback. The more I think about it, you're all on the money. I think I'm going to leave it like it is and spend my efforts locating what ammo is left and grab it when I can.

Nosler loads ammo for the 300 RUM, I think that Federal also loads ammo for it. You can check with ammoseek, on the availably of ammo.
Respectfully
Mike


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Yeah I located 1 box last year on there.....$106. But, I really do need to try some other loads to see how they compare.

All the well known ammunition companies supply 300 RUM, and it can be found at many places online. However, if I was into that beast of a cartridge, I would most certainly be purchasing good brass. (And I don’t mean Remington, Hornady, etc.) Norma Brass can still be found in small quantities. Peterson makes 300RUM brass, and I would have patience to wait for some ADG. (Cream of the crop) For the price of what loaded ammo cost in this cartridge, it only makes sense to reload for it. Considering 1-box of 20 rounds can be upwards of $100! Only a few range sessions would recoup the initial cost of reloading expense.

I check often and most websites are routinely out of stock. All of the local sporting goods stores and Cabelas usually chuckle when I ask them about 300 RUM. Using AmmoSeek, I see there are Barnes Vor-TX and Norma Bondstrike extreme. Anyone on here have experience with either of those?