My Cerakote projects

I recently posted about my first attempt at Cerakoting. Everything turned out great in my opinion. Not 100% perfect, but passable for anything I could have paid somebody to do. I'm just going to keep this page going to post pics of my projects as I do them.

First attempt at cerakoting using graphite black and magpul FDE on my AR15's. I ordered new stocks so I will post up pics once they are completed.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...DCD46147C4.jpg

CZ83's before

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...356FAD37B0.jpg

one of the CZ83's after cerakoting in stainless and graphite black. I need to figure out what to do with the grips. I attempted to cerakote the original ones and they melted at 150 degrees. Cheap communist plastic!

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...35C0832AD9.jpg

Coming soon, OD Green Savage 300 win mag and stainless with pink grips cz83, pictures of my neighbor's AR15 I did in OD Green, and a friend's Beretta 96 in OD Green

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n10sivern

one of the CZ83's after cerakoting in stainless and graphite black. I need to figure out what to do with the grips. I attempted to cerakote the original ones and they melted at 150 degrees. Cheap communist plastic!

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....and you just solved my riddle! I've been pondering CeraKoting my poly frame SR40, it might hold up but I'm not taking a chance! Something tells me Ruger probably wouldn't back stupidity in their warranty and give me a new frame for melting it. I'm going with DuraCoat!
But, regardless, these look good. Keep it up!

That ruger frame is a completely different type of plastic/polymer. These grips are cheap, chip and break easily grips. Many a glock frames have been cerakoted with the baked on coating. If you are worried about it, use the air dry cerakote. I believe cerakote to be better because it applies so thin it doesn't really affect tolerances, especially when spraying the inside and outside of a frame.

Well, I decided to do my Ruger 22/45 Lite. It was originally this hideous gold anodized color. Now it is woods worthy!!! Had one little screw up with a punch drifting in the rear sight. The Punch slipped and nicked my slide.

Generic photo of the original 22/45
http://www.gunsandammo.com/files/2012/04/tn.jpg

After
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...AEC5F2A5DF.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...580519541B.jpg

Bravo on the Ruger!!! I agree that gold thing they did is hideous, you made it a 100 times better.

That looks really good! I just wish I could get the Cerakote done on my frame for less than $60 that the place wants to charge! The Duracoat kit will only cost me $50, shipped to my house.

$60 isn't a bad price

Maybe. But that's only for the coating itself apparently. Meaning I have to detail strip the frame, which I'm comfortable with and would rather do myself anyway. But, I also have to 'rough it up' myself and do all the prep work.

IMO, for the price, they should have a media blaster setup to do the prep work, not the customer. At most, they won't be using more than 1oz of color, even less hardener.
I'll have to call them back again and see what I can work out for finished product costs.

Wow. I wouldn't trust anybody else to prep the material for me. No way to ensure it was outgassed or prepped correctly

Have any pointers for prepping the poly frame? I'd like to save the "Ruger" logo and the "phoenix" logo too(keep them poly black) and the serial number plate to stay as is. PM me if needed.

http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/...ps580819e0.jpg

The backstrap is softer rubber and it won't be getting coated. Mag floorplates, the trigger, all the pins, and the mag release will stay black too. Kinda going for black accents/OD green frame/polished slide looking thing. I really have my heart set on a very standard OD green, I saw a 'WWII OD Green' from Duracoat and LOVE that color!

You could definitely do the poly frame and just tape off what you don't want colored. I'm not sure about the ruger logo. You could tape it and use an xacto knife to cut the tape to fit into the logo but that would be tedious. Could also spray one color then tape around the ruger logo and spray back

I feel like the phoenix will be easy to tape off, it's a simple circle. The 'Ruger' logo, I probably can't keep black and I'm ok with it, wishful thinking.

What's the best method to prep the poly? I don't have a blaster, it will all be done by hand, dremel tool and sandpaper.

I wouldn't do it by hand with cerakote. It's a very thin coating and will show any marks on the frame. Duracoat and gunkote are thicker paints but less durable. If you want cerakote it needs to be blasted with 120 grit aluminum oxide or garnet. Sorry, but if you are gonna do it then do it right or you won't be happy with the results.

Question, do you bead blast the polymer frames on the pistols? What temp do bake the polymer at? I had been a dura coat guy, but just bought some kg gun kote. I am making an oven and blast cabinet from an old locker now. That ruger really looks good! Great work!

Thanks. No bead blast with cerakote. It's not rough enough to get proper adhesion. Same 120 grit al-ox for polymer frames. Bake 2 hours at 150-180. My oven only goes down to 170 so that's what I use. I have a toaster oven that'll do 150.

Well, here is my 300 blackout. Not very black. Too much FDE. I'm going to cerakote the pistol grip and stock black. BTW, I love this Mission First Tactical buttstock. Only weighs between 5-6 ounces and locks up MUCH better than Magpul MOE stocks. The MFT grip is nice too. I just wanted to be different and go with something other than Magpul. The MFT gear is also made in the USA, as is Magpul.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...D459452499.jpg

Here is my wife's CZ83. Stainless with graphite black accents with her pink grips. Turned out pretty good......except I'm not a fan of pink.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...57887ADB08.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...2D6C4D8D20.jpg

got some more to add to my collection. I've **** near cerakoted everything I own.

Kimber 1911 in Burnt Bronze and Graphite Black
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...F19CCB1A15.jpg

Mak 90 in OD Green and Graphite Black
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...C05D2C7DDE.jpg

CZ82 in Prison Pink and Graphite Black
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...3D028333C0.jpg

Savage 110 in Burnt Bronze and Graphite Black with Sightron SIII 10-50x60 scope, Choate stock, and Atlas bipod
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...746DAAFE98.jpg

Rossi Single Shot in OD Green and Magpul Flat Dark Earth
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...277DCFCC9E.jpg

Savage 64TR in Stainless Steel and Graphite Black in a Boyd's stock.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...DDAF87E751.jpg

AR15 18" barrel, Luth-AR stock, Diamondhead hand guard in OD green and Graphite Black
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...A31350A09F.jpg

Savage 64F in OD Green and Magpul Flat Dark Earth
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...50EF3CCD9A.jpg

Savage Mark II FV in Stainless Steel and Graphite Black with Mueller 8-32 scope
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...7B8E1BFD35.jpg

WOW! You've been busy spraying and baking!
They look good though!

I ended up having my SR40 frame CeraKoted in Mil-Spec OD Green and it turned out fantastic! Only cost $35+tax too!
Seeing your 64's done up makes me think I need to get crafty this weekend. HAHA!

I love the 64's. Just wish I could get a better trigger for a reasonable price.

I don't have it in mine. But, go here: http://www.mcarbo.com/savage-64.htm

I think fartsinpublic might have one installed and could vouch for it. Surprisingly, mine isn't too rough though. It does creep a while before firing and has some over-travel, I've gotten used to it I guess.

I've seen those. Just seems like $30 for 2 springs is high, but if it's work it I'll probably go that route.

I agree with you there, reason why I haven't done it yet. You might wanna PM fartsinpublic and get his opinion on it first.

Hey, you have any tips on coloring rollmarks/engraving? I've tried the nail polish trick and I can't get it to stick. I've heard about using Testors model paints and crayons too.

I've used the testers with a toothpick with pretty good results