Quick question -
I think my ER Shaw 22-6mm might have a very small burr in the chamber. Brass fired with full power loads has a tiny hang up on extraction. New brass doesn't have an issue...
What's the best way to polish a chamber?
Printable View
Quick question -
I think my ER Shaw 22-6mm might have a very small burr in the chamber. Brass fired with full power loads has a tiny hang up on extraction. New brass doesn't have an issue...
What's the best way to polish a chamber?
shotgun bore mop and some fine metal polishing compound (NO GRIT).
I use a low speed cordless drill to power the mop. Do the same when I chamber or rechamber a barrel as well.
Stick and leave a patch just past the chamber in the throat area, no reason to have all the compound travelling down the bore. :)
Thanks man! That was the idea I had in my head, just didn't know what kind of compound to use.
Can you recommend a specific product or a place to get something? I'm probably headed in town tomorrow to get a few things (dog food, etc...). Would an auto parts store have that kind of stuff?
Thanks again..
btw, not sure it's a burr but that's what it feels like. I'm in the process of cleaning the barrel so I'm gonna check the chamber real well once I get everything cleaned out.
I use "Blue Magic" metal polish.
I personally like some 1200 grit stuff from midwayusa
Perhaps Flitz would work.
I've use a shotgun bore mop and Lava soap before on old military guns.
Bob
Before you go cramming abrasives down your barrel. Are you sure there is a burr?
I have similar symptoms on a couple of my wsm chambers. I found that they were real picky with trim lengths and deburring the outside of the case mouth.
I have used Flitz soaked bore mops on plenty of chambers. Everything from 22 LR to centerfires. As long as you do it slowly you will not harm anything. I also use a drill while polishing.
My normal routine is pour some Flitz onto a flat surface. I put the spinning mop into the Flitz, forcing it into the mop. Next I put it into the chamber for about 30 seconds, moving it in and out briskly while it spins. Next, I remove the mop then clean the chamber to inspect. I reload the mop and repeat this procedure until I get the rusults I am looking for.
I also do this to new reloading dies to clean the lubricant from manufacture as well as polish them. I think it helps with sticky cases. You will still need lubricant if you did before polishing but I have found that there is less resistance after polishing.
Dolomite
Thanks for all the info guys! Unfortunately, I haven't had time to mess with it yet.
Yes, there is a scratch near the rear of the case just forward of the web area. That's why I first thought about a burr. Now I need to find time to closely check the chamber.Quote:
if there was a burr there would be a scratch on the case. got a scratch on the case?
Thanks again!