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I have rebarreled dozens of Savages through the years never a big deal. Now the barrel threads are so full of trash it is next to impossible to get them apart with out galling the threads on the three components. And it is next to impossible the get that trash out of those threads. It acts like blasting media and bulking salts mixed. I finally had to break down and buy a tap and die to chase those threads. Anybody else seen this? The last 3 I have done have had this issue.
Pulled the 243 barrel off my Axis and can't get the barrel nut off the threads for all the crap in there. Been using Kroil w/o any luck so far. I may have to cut the nut in order to get it off. In all the years I've been rebarreling Savages, this is the first time I ever ran into this.
I think this video might explain the crud in the thread.
I only have three 110s but they are circa 1990, 2000, and 2016. The 2016 is at least the build quality of the two others. Though the 2000 is the most accurate based in luck of the draw I assume.
https://youtu.be/hNUPAc2F3l8
All The axis’s i e done have it. It’s either blast media or a thread locking compound. It comes right off with a wire brush. It can make barrel removal a little challenging though.Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCop
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I used WD 40 to wash the threads out took a good while to get the nut off spraying and rocking the nut back and forth, but it finally came off.
Heat helps a lot. Start with a Heat Gun. Move up to Propane Torch if necessary. Known as the “Blue Wrench”. That gunk will melt and the barrel will come off much easier. When the gunk cools it will resolidify the nut to the barrel. You can reheat it and easily remove the nut from the barrel.
I used the NSS tools and directions (including the pipe wrench recommendation). The barrel and silly smooth nut came off together. And much to my surprise, the nut came off the barrel with only my index finger and thumb. Who would have thunk it..
I think you're right about both blasting media and bluing salts. It's been apparent the me for some time that the barreled action is first blasted and then dipped in the bluing salts as an assembly. Together they'll leave quite a combination of debris on a new Savage. I've had brass being torn up upon ejection from a new rifle due to what I believe was dried salts in the chamber I could not remove. Sent that gun back for rework. It shoots very well now, but it also had issues with cratering even mild loads, so it went back a second time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordoldfart
Every barrel I took off using the NSS action vice came off easily, but the nut was never easy to get off the barrel tenon. Lots of liquid wrench and WD-40 to flush out the debris.
Didn't have any trouble removing the barrel, just can't get the nut off the barrel. It's jammed up tight even when I put the barrel in a barrel vice, the nut is frozen right at the end of the barrel. I've been putting Kroil on it w/o any luck so far. I'll have to give the ole heat gun a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by ninner
I think we all tend to forget Savage started the barrel nut for ease of the manufacturing process, not so we could change barrels. Savage offers little to help with barrel swapping. The barrel nut wrench is an aftermarket product. Perhaps the smooth nut is a deterrent rather than a cosmetic move? I don’t think Savage even considers barrel swapping in their quality process.
Two options, heat or Dremel. I use heat since it’s easier and I can never find my goggles.Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCop
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I have found Mopar rust penetrant spray to be good for lots of threaded fittings that are stuck tight, even if not rusted.
I told everyone the first time someone mentioned the media years ago what it is. It is steel blasting media to remove the carbon from the heat treat process. We had a 2 story tall Wheelabrator that shot the steel shot down onto parts that we heat treated. The problem is the parts need to be washed before they are shot cleaned. The oil they are dropping the receivers into is still in the receiver before they shot peen them. They are skipping the cleaning step to cut cost.
I'm no gunsmith I restore carburetors for people. If heat makes whatever it is turn loose I'd think they are putting some sort of loctite compound on the threads when they are installing the barrels at the factory. I completely dismantle the carburetors I restore and when I reassemble them I put high strength loctite on the throttle and choke blade screws. After it sets up you will not remove those little screws without breaking them off unless you apply heat to them with a propane torch. And even then, I hold the point of the flame on a screw head for mebby four seconds, you need to go easy turning the screw out at first or you will break it off. Just saying.
Well I got my tap and die. Used them this evening on a barrel and a nut. They cleaned up the threads and made them look good and sharp. Nut spun on the barrel like it should. Not loose not to tight just right.
Heat from a torch didn't do a thing. Saw something bubbling around the nut at chamber end, attached nut wrench and the damned thing still wouldn't budge either way. Ended up going to the Dremel and still had one helluva time getting the nut off but finally succeeded. I did get some of the barrel threads by going a bit too deep with the cutting wheel. Shallow cut is about 3/4" long and appears it's just below the bottom of the threads a fraction of an inch. Would this compromise the strength of the chamber area?
What fraction of an inch? If 1/16" or less then no. If more than that it depends on how much but it is probably OK. Unless you have a large magnum case then there is a lot of 'meat' there.
Since it’s a 243 you should be fine. There’s a lot of barrel there. If it were a small shank wsm it could possibly be an issue.
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Definitely less than 1/16th inch thankfully.Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b