Hi! New owner of a Savage 10 with some questions.

Hi everyone, I've just acquired my first bolt action rifle and it's a used Savage Model 10 in .308, but I've got a few questions about it I couldn't figure out with a day of googling, so I figured I'd just ask here. First off, I'm not quite sure what model I have and whether it matters or not, and I've also got a question about the stock.

The barrel I've measured at 22", unthreaded with a recessed crown, it's matte black and feels similar to a QPQ nitride finish. The engraving on the barrel says "SAVAGE MODEL 10 CAL .308 WIN." and has "A302" next to it in small letters as well as "A7" perpendicular to it, in case that's relevant. It's got a picatinny rail base on it (not sure if it's factory), the bolt release is on the top/side, and it has a double-feed blind magazine with what appears to be a 4-round capacity though you could force a 5th one in there without too much fuss. It has an Accutrigger and the stock doesn't have any distinguishing markings on it but it's fairly flimsy and plastic. The action mounting screws are about 4 and a quarter inches apart.

Beyond knowing which model I have, I'd like to know if it'd be advised to change the stock out? The barrel is fairly well free-floated all the way down, but at the farthest end towards the muzzle, the stock has a significant amount of flex and it doesn't take much lateral force at all for it to contact the barrel, which I would think isn't ideal. It's also not quite centered, with the barrel being closer to the left side of the stock than the right by about twice the length. With the picatinny rail base, I've simply stuck on a scope I already had with a quick-detach AR-height mount at 1.47" but this is quite a bit too high for the standard stock. I've taped on some foam to act as a cheek rest and it works fine, but between this annoyance and the flex near the muzzle end, I'm thinking of swapping it out for something with an adjustable cheek rest and a stiffer construction.

So, to cap off, which specific model do I have (and does it matter) and where should I look for a good stock?

One last note is that the rifle comes from a family friend, and he's got four rubber o-rings about an inch from the end of the muzzle that he claims helps with accuracy. I've shot some Federal GMM 168s and 175s through it and it's ridiculously accurate by my standards, with every group well within an inch at 100 after an hour's session at the range, so I don't think it hurts the accuracy and as such I haven't removed them, but is having the o-rings normal? I've never seen or heard of such a thing but my only firearms experience before is with carbines and handguns with more of a tactical focus than anything really geared for long-range or accuracy.

https://i.imgur.com/B6Ex5L4.jpg

Older short action, pre- '07 IIRC.
The O-rings act as a deresonator, been around forever...here's the Limbsaver model:
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Sims-...tor/741294.uts

They're designed to affect/dampen barrel harmonics. Obviously in your case they're not causing any detriment to accuracy, you can always note their position for replacement, remove them and see what effect they have. Usually barrels are better served being completely free-floated, but absent acceptable results deresonators, and tuners (an adjustable muzzle device) are used.

Welcome

Thanks for the info, I'm surprised something so insubstantial can have an actual effect on this barrel with a high pressure centerfire rifle. I guess I'll try moving them around up and down the barrel and taking it off to see if it affects accuracy at all.

What are your intentions for the rifle? You have a good base to squeeze a lot of performance out of this rig if you want to! However, if you only plan to plink at 100 or so it may suit your needs as is.

Me personally the first thing I would do is swap out the stock for a boyd's at the very least, but if there are other higher end options out there as well. I believe out of all the variations out there the 4.2" Short Action probably has the most after market support available from Chassis to McMillan/Manners etc. Trigger can be tuned or replaced, Looks like a good enough scope is mounted already. The O-Rings on the muzzle may work well for tuning factory ammo a bit and is an old school trick. I'm not much for those methods, but you will find many that believe in them. Either way you could be perfectly happy with the rifle starting out as is. Shoot it a bunch and upgrade as you deem necessary with your own shooting ability!

My 100 yard range is the closest one that I usually shoot/zero at, I need to drive an hour to take it out farther, but did so today! Shot it out to 200, 300, and 600, and it did great. Seems like the stock isn't flexing enough to contact the barrel and/or impact accuracy so I might keep it, but I'll take a look at upgrading it still since it's annoying still.

Trigger is great, I adjusted it down to the lightest setting and it's very crisp and easy to break smoothly. I haven't played with the o-rings any but my best group at 600 was a little under 8" with FGMM 175s which is pretty great by my standards so I won't mess with them yet, don't see reason to. I'd like to get a more consistent and comfortable cheekweld than my foam/tape contraption, and I'm not sure if I should get a dedicated optic with lower rings or get a stock with a riser built-in so I can use my AR-height QD mount/scope still. Redialing the zero back and forth between different guns is a little annoying, though it holds zero well taking it off and on, so props to ADM. It gets dark quick this time of the year so I might get something with illumination.

All in all, for my first bolt gun and first Savage, I'm very happy with it!

You can eventually re-barrel it to any 308win bolt face cartridge with a few affordable tools and gauges.
22-250 / 22-250 AI
6x47 Lapua
243win / 243 AI
6mm Creedmoor
6xc
260 Rem / 260 AI
6.5 Creedmoor
6.5x47 Lapua
7mm08 / 7-08 AI


If you don't handload then the 308win & 6.5 Creedmoor are by far the best choice for plinking 100 to 1000 yards.

The rifle already looks to have a good enough scope (Vortex HS-T 6-24 ? )

For 100 to 300 yards it's hard to beat the FGMM 168 gr factory ammo.

Original model designation really doesn't matter, they're all pretty much the same, but if I had to guess I would say either a 10FP or 12FV.

On the stock, that's a personal preference thing. I can't stand the factory plastic stocks, but others tend to like them. It's a matter of what floats your boat and if it works for you. Boyds and Bell & Carlson will be your cheapest options. Choate Machine has a selection of target/varmint style stocks. SSS offers laminate stocks. McMillan, HS Precision and Manners all offer top end fiber stocks, and then there's the wide selection of aluminum chassis that are available.

On the scope, best thing to do would be to ditch that AR mount and replace it with a decent set of rings to get the height down. Having the optic that high above the bore just makes the rifle that much harder to shoot, and any slight amount of cant will be amplified by the additional height.