Could you put a 111BTH HF rifle/action into this stock? It's LA and says HF/DBM so I don't see why not but is there something I'm missing?
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1624130
Printable View
Could you put a 111BTH HF rifle/action into this stock? It's LA and says HF/DBM so I don't see why not but is there something I'm missing?
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1624130
Yes, a standard Savage LA, CF, DBM with BBR TG will fit into a Savage 111 LWH walnut stock. The metal bottom parts (BBR TG, HFP frame assembly) will also fit. You may need to slightly open up the barrel channel near the forearm tip for the longer Savage sporter barrel to fit. Use sand paper and dowel rod. Reseal wood with several coats of Tru-Oil. The bare Savage 111 LWH walnut stock is almost as light (28 oz) as the Savage synthetic stock without all the forearm flex.
Ok thanks for your help! Seems fairly easy and straightforward!
Had another question: Do you think the light weight of the stock will cause any accuracy issues?
The only thing the stocks weight will effect is the recoil... The heavier the stock, the less recoil you will feel.... So, you may be a little more accurate with a heavier stock because you can handle the weapons recoil better. But for a pack it around hunting rifle, you should have NO problems with a good quality laminate stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by lsuTigers
I'm guessing it's a laminate stock anyway as there was no picture of the stock in your link.
The Savage 111 LWH stock is American walnut with a 1" Pachmayr Decelerator recoil pad. It is a much better stock than the cheap synthetic factory stock that Savage puts on the Savage Trophy Hunter and Savage 16 LWH. It is pillar bedded and the lightest Savage wood stock available at around 1 lb. 12 oz. It is a pleasure to carry and handles well as a carry hunting rifle. I always stress-free epoxy bed the action and recoil lug to get the best accuracy potential from my Savage rifles. I also recommend using metal bottom parts. The Savage plastic TG and DBM frame assembly don't give the action screw heads a solid base. And they do crack if you apply too much torque.
SageRat Shooter has addressed the issue with recoil, light rifles and consistent groups. I've found with the Savage LWH you need to firmly hold the forearm in the bags when developing loads and sighting in the scope. This helps manage the recoil and muzzle jump. Also, I've noticed the Savage LW and sporter barrels must be allowed to cool after 3-shots or groups will start to open up.