Barrel swapping facts needed

Have a 2009 M12 .308Win that began life as an FTR, 30" s.s. barrel and then added laminate BR stock. Bought second hand with less than 300rnd through it about a year ago. Didn't find out about the ability to swap barrels until shortly after that, and didn't think I would even think about it. Well....now thinking of something more practical specifically for prairie dog shooting 300-600yds.

I have searched and found plenty on doing the swap, but I am not knowledgeable yet on what is a direct swap and what will require more. Have read up a little on cartridge family, but that has me asking more questions. What I am looking for is what calibers will swap with what OR what components ( besides barrel ) do I need to be looking at? Have seen the bolt face mentioned and short/long action, but still not 100% on all terms.

Thanks for any and all help,
DWD

Starting with model 12, 308 Win, the bolt face is for 0.473" dia case base diameter and short action. That is a very versatile size. However, with a Savage rifle you can easily change bolt face. with your current set up you could easily change to several good varmint rounds including .243, 22-250 for example . With a new bolt head of 0.378" dia you could get into a host of 223/5.56 family of cartridges. You have literally dozens of options. Good luck - search on you tube for videos about the subject. In my case I have 3 actions and 6 barrels and another barrel on order.

Might I suggest that you decide on a cartridge that you want to build and then start asking questions. To ask about everything at once can overload you with information and become confusing.

Look at this page (PDF), compare case head sizes and length. Anything simular to the .308 should/could be a direct barrel swap.

http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...PDF-version%29

DWD, Do some searching In FAQ on this site. Swapping barrels is pretty easy. Your biggest problem will probably be removing the barrel nut, especially if it is smooth. Soak it in penetrating oil for a few days before even trying to remove it. You will want to replace the nut and recoil lug with ones that have been precision ground. Get the action out of the stock and take a long look. The barrel screws into the action and the nut is nothing but an adjustable shoulder that locks it. There are several ways to remove the nut the first time. I have always used a barrel block that I made out of hard wood, but with blocks you are working against yourself.... an action wrench is better... but pricey. You will need a wrench for the nut. Head space is not rocket science! Send me a PM if you are stumped.

Take a look at 6x47L, 243, 22-250, 22 or 6mmBR. They all use the .473 bolt face.


Bill

Some other points to consider for your desired use are costs associated with your caliber choice. For instance, the 243 will use around 45 grains of powder per load whereas the 22-250 will use around 35 while shooting the same bullet as a 223 using around 25. Some chamberings suffer short brass life. Bullets, brass, powder, primers and barrels are the consumables. Some calibers are notorious barrel burners, such as the 22-250. The number of rounds per year that you plan to shoot and your budget should be the main drivers of your search.

Thanks everyone! Looks like I found a little of the info. I was looking for regarding bolt face sizes, below and above link. Currently looking at 6.5X47 OR the 6.5creedmoor. Still a lot of questions.....needing to be asked. As neither of those two calibers are listed, but my common since says look at the case blue print and check rim diameter, this should answer bolt face size?

So wanting to make sure I ask the correct ?'s; I need to know short/long action, and boltface dia = rim dia.? Is there anything else?

http://www.savageshooters.com/archiv...p/t-32628.html

Don't know about the 6.5x47 but the 6.5 creedmoor would use the same bolt head as the 308 ,and it also will work in the short action, also the 308 magazine will work with the creedmoor

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Originally Posted by Breeze

Don't know about the 6.5x47 but the 6.5 creedmoor would use the same bolt head as the 308 ,and it also will work in the short action, also the 308 magazine will work with the creedmoor

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6.5x47 Lapua uses same bolt head as .308 as well, either of the above are super rounds, if you don't reload go with the Creedmoor for the plentiful factory ammo. Lapua offers factory ammo for the 47 but it's $$$

Use a pipe wrench on the smooth nut then throw it away and use a new nut and lug!

I've shot lots of prarie dogs with both, you may want to consider a muzzle brake to make spotting hits/misses easier under 300 yards in my experience. This was with Choate stocked 28" bull barreled 15# rifles 400 yards out were easy to spot under that was not.

If you're wanting to go .223/.204 you'll need to swap bolt head and magazine. I think your 6.5 choices are the way to go though.

For Prairie dogs @ 600 yards I'd go with the .243 or 6.5 creed or 260 rem. I've seen those winds get upwards of 20-30 mph.... The 22-250 bullet gets blown all over the place in just a 10 mph wind.... I have a 22-250 for my PD gun and it works wonderfully out to 400-500 yards in low wind, but as soon as the wind comes up any higher, my hit ratio plummets.... the 6.5 with a heavy pill is a good way to buck the wind....

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Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter

For Prairie dogs @ 600 yards I'd go with the .243 or 6.5 creed or 260 rem. I've seen those winds get upwards of 20-30 mph.... The 22-250 bullet gets blown all over the place in just a 10 mph wind.... I have a 22-250 for my PD gun and it works wonderfully out to 400-500 yards in low wind, but as soon as the wind comes up any higher, my hit ratio plummets.... the 6.5 with a heavy pill is a good way to buck the wind....

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True that!

haven't been on a p-dog trip, but have an open invitation, so hoping this year will be it. Won't be ready with a new build, so taking the 308 to play with a little. Have 17HMR for close and AR .223 Predator build for under 300yds.

Thanks to all! Think I'm getting the basics down. Once i decide on what 6.5 caliber then I guess next question is what manufacturer do I buy from? Saw there was a Vendor(?) that has both calibers in the classifieds and like to give back as much as possible to a forum, just need to know if there is a wrong brand of barrel and what questions to ask that go along with the purchase. Like the idea of muzzle brake so thats on the list; Thank you 6.5savageguy

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Originally Posted by DeadWoodDan

Thanks everyone! Looks like I found a little of the info. I was looking for regarding bolt face sizes, below and above link. Currently looking at 6.5X47 OR the 6.5creedmoor. Still a lot of questions.....needing to be asked. As neither of those two calibers are listed, but my common since says look at the case blue print and check rim diameter, this should answer bolt face size?

So wanting to make sure I ask the correct ?'s; I need to know short/long action, and boltface dia = rim dia.? Is there anything else?

http://www.savageshooters.com/archiv...p/t-32628.html

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One of those two would be my first choice with the 6.5 Creed the first one.

Its a low impact cartridge on the barrel.

Good ballistics and wind resistant, good bullet choices and more coming along by all mfgs.

Here's your vendor.... http://northlandshooterssupply.com/m...ade-barrels-2/

I have Criterion barrels (1 is on the way... 260 rem match). The Shilen is another good one, but I have no personal experience with them. I think you'll be happy with either one though....

There's another vendor (X-Caliber) that I've been hearing good things about lately....

My first choice would be NSS and the Criterion of Shilen burls and whichever one they had available (if they do, likely)

Can't go wrong with either one of them and NSS is great to work with.

You do have to figure out what profile barrel you want. Also what length. 24 is good, 26 is ok, more is too long for field.

I would think the Savage Varmint for your use (that's a Heavy barrel one step shy of a bull)

How much walking and weight do you want to carry how far?

From what I'm told the group drives in, sets up on benches and shoots. After "x" hrs, Move repeat. Doesn't sound like much walking. They drive there trucks on private land and take RTV's for other transportation.

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Originally Posted by DeadWoodDan

From what I'm told the group drives in, sets up on benches and shoots. After "x" hrs, Move repeat. Doesn't sound like much walking. They drive there trucks on private land and take RTV's for other transportation.

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Yep, that's how it works.... Some of the best times out there!!!

I get my barrels from NSS along with a new nut and recoil lug. As stated by others all you need is a barrel, nut & wrench, lug and an action wrench and/or barrel vise. A set of headspace gauges is nice but I have set them with a piece of new brass. NSS is out of Bismarck now if you're in Deadwood, as your name implies you may get parts in a day but definitely 3 days or less on in stock barrels.

It's less than an hour job even being careful & meticulous.

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Originally Posted by DeadWoodDan

From what I'm told the group drives in, sets up on benches and shoots. After "x" hrs, Move repeat. Doesn't sound like much walking. They drive there trucks on private land and take RTV's for other transportation.

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That would push me to a Varmint Contour.

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I have Criterion barrels (1 is on the way... 260 rem match). The Shilen is another good one, but I have no personal experience with them. I think you'll be happy with either one though....

There's another vendor (X-Caliber) that I've been hearing good things about lately....

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I have both a Sholen and an XC. The only difference I find is that the Shilen is easier to clean. The XC is not bad, just not as few swap outs as the Shilen.

Shilen is about 5 co get completely clean.

XC about 10.

Savage is a good 20.

I've got several 26" varmint contoured Shilens in Choate stocks. I don't mind carrying them and the weight difference between 22"-26" is not enough to potentially lose 60 +/- FPS