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Been toying with the idea of changing the stock on my 10T. Any recommendations? Has to be under $750. Never done this before. Is it better to have it professionally done or is it easy to DIY? It shoots comfortably now but getting an itch now. Appreciate suggestions. Have looked at some online but would rather here it from someone who has done it already. Thanks.
I recently bought an XLR Evolution chassis. Prices on those start at $750. They have their Element chassis for $595. The good thing is it is just a drop in job for either, although you will have to go with taller rings to clear the handguard on the Evolution. The Element is a true drop-in job as you take your rifle out of the stock and place it in the chassis without having to remove your scope, unless you want to adjust it some.
I really like mine, even though I have not shot with it yet. I read as much as I could about XLR and couldn't find anything negative.
I have the element. It is very nice. The machine work is excellent and the finish is top notch. They are having a group buy right now as well.
Thanks guys. Looked at both. Not to bad of a price. Which butt stock did you guys go with? Can I keep the same magazines I currently use or do I have to switch to AICS?
If you opt for a chassis you'll be using AI style mags.
I went with the Tactical butt stock because the underside is angled more like a traditional stock. It made it easier for me to use a bag for elevation changes.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcatrp
May go with the extreme evolution HD. Is there a plate I will have to buy for the AICS magazines to work? Will P-Mags work?
As far as I know, the XLR chassis is specifically made for the Accuracy International magazines. although there are some other companies that make magazines that are the same fit. A Pmag won't fit. I am not sure what plate you are talking about, but you don't need anything other than the magazines.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcatrp
Also, you might want to consider the folding stock option. I did not go with the folding stock. In retrospect, I may have, but I figure I could get by without it. It should be less hassle for you when cleaning. Just something to think about.
Never changed out a chassis so wasn't sure if other parts were required. I saw the part for making it foldable. Am assuming I can add that later, right? Just emailed them to see which chassis works the best with least amount of issues but told them I like the evolution HD I am eying. Will see what they have to say. Was going to keep the savage stock and buy a Ruger Precision in 308 but since thats nearly impossible to find, may just upgrade my chassis instead. Its a great shooting rifle as is now. Might as well tweak what I have now that works.
No other parts are required. It just drops in. They supply two action screws that you must use for the chassis. I don't know your shooting style, but I bought the Evolution with tactical buttstock due to the angled bottom piece. I like to shoot off a rear bag and I like to move the bag up and down the stock to change elevation.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcatrp
Also, if you don't have one, I recommend a torque wrench that can reach 70 in/lbs. The six hex 5/32" front screws that hold on the tube should be torqued to 45 in/lbs and the two hex 3/16" action screws should be torqued to 65 in/lbs. Also, the rear action screw is recessed and I had to order a deeper bit to reach it with my driver.
You can add the folding stock later. However, to change it you must loosen the AR style locking ring and also unscrew a hex keeper screw on the underside of the stock. The problem I encountered was that the tube is not a standard AR-15 size. It is slightly beefier. Therefore, my action wrench will not fit over the tube to get to the locking ring. I suppose I could grind down the nubs on my action wrench, but I really did not want to do that as it would essentially ruin my wrench. I just decided to live with it. So, if I were you, I would really consider getting it or not. Had I thought it over better, I would have opted for it. I may yet see about putting it on. I figured I could mail it back to XLR and have them install it. It would be just as cost effective an painless as opposed to grinding on my wrench. But, as of now, I will just live it. Without the folding stock, you can remove your bolt since it is a short action. I had to slide my cheek rest back slightly for a longer length of pull to be able to remove the bolt. It needed to moved back for me anyway. To clean the rifle, you need to drop the cheek pad down as it is in the way. To use a bore guide, you need to move the cheek pad up and slide the bore guide under the cheek pad to install it. You can then move the cheek pad down or leave it elevated all the way and go under it with a cleaning rod. You also have to drop the buttpad down if you have it up for the cleaning rod to have clearance. I am using a 42" Pro-shot cleaning rod right now. I was going to order the longer 50" rod and wished I did. I will probably order the longer one later or opt for the folding stock.
It is sort of headache when cleaning, but you can work around it if you have to. You have a 24" barrel like me, so cleaning without the folding stock will be the same.
Thanks for the details. Still waiting on a response from them before I decide which one to get.
Got a response. All of them work the same for installing. Should have one before spring hits.