Muzzle Brake help?

Hello. I have a 110 FCP in 300 Win Mag. New to brakes. I'm doing some research myself now, but I wanted to get others input on my question. I'm looking at a few options, but a brake called MegaMax by Dean in New Zealand has a very attractive brake I'm about to pull the trigger on. He recommended a 3/4 x 28 thread for my barrel and his brake (heavy barrel), what do you think about this size? I ask because I want to get the most common thread size in case I would like to change the brake down the road to something else, or perhaps a suppressor (down the road, way down the road). I'm seeing a lot of 5/8x24 tossed around, but again, not sure which one is most recommended.

Also, aside from his brake, my other option was Precision Armament M11 Extreme Duty. Looks attractive, but again, not sure.

Any input would be appreciated. Meanwhile, I'll continue to search on here and other sources.

-Angelo

It is best to get the biggest diameter threads cut that you can for that particular barrel. I read a very interesting article on this in another forum. This auther / gunsmith has found that when smaller 5/8-24 threads were cut on the barrel, he was seeing what he described as " trumpeting" in the area in the very end of the barrel bore were the threads were at. He could fit a ground pin that was .0015 larger than the bore diameter into the first 1/2 inch of the barrel, right where the threads were . Now, this was on a 30 cal barrel . You may not see this happen on a barrel with a smaller bore diameter like a 22 or 6mm caliber that has more meat on it.
If you want to read the article, and see the video it is on 6mmbr.com in the gunsmithing section, april 2nd it was posted i think.

Another option would be a clamp on brake. I just got one from Witt Machine. It works great, and no gunsmith needed. Lots of good reviews on youtube on them. I tightened mine more than the 7inch pounds that they suggest.

I'll second the clamp on from Witt. Put one on my Rem 700 in .308. Feels like a .223 & has never moved in over 1000 rounds.


BW

Take a look at Harrell's brakes

Thank you for the replies.

I definately dont don't want to use a clamp on brake. I would like to have the option for a suppressor later down the road.

Does anyone know what Savage threads their barrels at from the factory for the 338 model rifles?

I have another question, one person I'm trying to get a brake from is very adamant about using a 3/4 x 28 threads for the button bore style heavy barrel that savage uses on their heavy barrel .30 cal barrels.

But everything seems to be threaded for 5/8x24.


What do you all think?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NM2011CTSV

But everything seems to be threaded for 5/8x24.

---

Exactly. If you want to be able to experiment with different .30-caliber brakes and/or use a quick-disconnect for a silencer, then you should just go 5/8x24.

You might check out http://www.jecustom.com

I have one of his assassin muzzle breaks. I love it.

ross schueller is the man

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by limige

ross schueller is the man

---

Ross is THE man when it comes to 3 port brakes. If you want a 4 or 5 port then Nate is the man. You are looking at $45 to $55 shipped and they are made extremely well.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by zap

.... This auther / gunsmith has found that when smaller 5/8-24 threads were cut on the barrel, he was seeing what he described as " trumpeting" in the area in the very end of the barrel bore were the threads were at.

---

Also will happen on an unthreaded barrel as well. Which is why when you have a barrel set back, an inch is usually cut off both ends.

The guy I've been using.
http://www.muzzlebrakesandmore.com/Home_Page.php

I specify what I want & he makes exactly what I want. For $45 each you can't go wrong. They may not look like some of those sexy sounding / looking brakes but then they don't cost $150 either.
He just made one for my 300 Win Mag project. 1" diameter, 4 port and makes the rifle nice & smooth to shoot. I can spend the day at the range or where ever and torch off 40 - 50 rounds without shoulder aches, pain, dislocation, fractured clavicle, etc.

And talk about a LOUD rifle when I shoot under a canopy. It blows stuff off the bench top on either side of my shooting station.
Good luck with your project.

+1 for muzzle brakes and more!! Both he and his buddy Ross Schuler do a really good job. I have one of each. Last one I ordered from Ross was shipped before he got the check.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fgw_in_fla

For $45 each you can't go wrong. They may not look like some of those sexy sounding / looking brakes but then they don't cost $150 either.

---

+1

A muzzle brake is a pretty simple design. I went with a similar $50 Miculek brake (three ports) on my 10 FCP-SR, and it works reallllly well.

This test is brakes on 5.56 ARs, but the results are a good comparison of how different designs actually perform:

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/201...vice-shootout/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Newsshooter

+1 for muzzle brakes and more!! Both he and his buddy Ross Schuler do a really good job. Last one I ordered from Ross was shipped before he got the check.

---

+ 1 from me.

I've been very satisfied with Seekins Precision brake on my 10FCP-SR...
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...8f4dfa1119.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by limige

ross schueller is the man

---

Best brake I ever used.