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Hi .
Would someone knows if there's an easy way to remove this black internal magazine from the action on a model 16, pre accutriger , without damaging it..? I look at it but I can't figure out how this thing can come off ? to me it seems it can't be detached at all ????
Thank you
Stef
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ps56fe2c2b.jpg
It comes right off. Just put a screw driver between the action and the tab and twist the driver. Pops free.
Here is a link to an article with step by steps and pictures on how it is done, you may have to be a paid member here to view it, but it will be well worth the $15/yr as there are good tech articles and how to's.
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...wer-(SF-and-CF)
You might also try a pair of long nosed pliers to flex the clip back. I had a heck of a time getting mine off...
I have used screw drivers as Boots described and removed several of these multiple times on the same rifles. Unfortunately, I've always gouged the receiver a bit doing so, and it is never easy. Simple, but not easy. :) I have to push down real hard and twist it so as to press the sides/ends of the mag back until the tab is free from the recess in the action. Once the tab is pulled away so it clears, I still have trouble getting the mag to move out of it's "spot" b/c the pressure of the screw driver is then holding it in place instead of the tabs. It seems it is one or the other. Having said that, it can be removed. I have just given up expecting to be able to do so without gouging the action. Sometimes I grind out the rough spots of the gouge before applying cold blue to protect it from rusting. Regardless, it's never seen once it's reassembled.
Thank you everyone for your help . I paid the membership and looked at the instructions. I will try at in in the morning.
Meanwhile this is off topic, but if someone has good info , or a tutorial about how to properly bed a model 16, or similar, I would appreciate viewing it.
I got a Boyd stock to replace the plastic one it had... I would like to do a good job.
thanks
stef.
look for youtube videos. there's many different ways to skin this cat. no comprehensive instructions avail for Savage. Study all the videos you can and take from them what you can. The principals are what is important.
Here are some random tips I think are important and have gleaned from many sources and learned from experience.
I like Devcon 10110. Strong and good consistency. look for it online, can be found a lot cheaper than everywhere else. I don't remember where but look and you can find considerabley cheaper than everywhere else.
JB Weld isn't bad, but let it sit for quite a while so it thickens before applying. ( Let it get as thick as peanut butter first)
keep in mind the goal is to make a solid, stress-free mount for your action. If, when done, the screws do not turn freely and then suddenly stop, it's not stress-free. something is binding. recess a bit of the bedding all over and do it again. No point in "settling" with a less than perfect job. It gets easier each time. I have done maybe 15 rifles, and have redone most of them at least once before it has the perfect, stress-free results.
Do get longer versions of the action screws (carriage bolts from the hardware store) and cut the heads off and grind them a bit so the top of the now headless bolts are tapered a bit so you can screw them into the action and just use them as a guide when bedding. It is not a good idea to use the screws to draw it all together. Doing so puts pressure on the action and causes binding. Instead, use the longer guide screws and then press it into the stock and use electric tape wrapped around it all to hold it all together till it sets.
Best release agent is Brownell's Acra- Release. it's an aerosol that is easy to apply, covers well and releases perfectly. Applies like PAM spray, but Pam leaves a rough, gritty surface on the bedding. Everything else is difficult to tell if you miss a spot or remove too much... hard to explain, but trust me. Only issue is it is expensive if you only do one rifle.
Have a lot of q-tips handy and wd-40 for cleaning up seapage/overflow.
Plumbers Putty is best for damming and filling voids in action that you do not want the epoxy getting into.
threaded lamp rod is a cheap and effective source for pillars. Before relieving any stock material, get your pillars to the right height using the original stock as a height guide. Once you think they are both right, relieve the stock and then test the pillars for height by assembling and verifying all is level and stress-free.
there's more, but I can't remember it all... it's not all that hard to do, but doing it well is important, and I can't stress enough how important it is to be willing to back up and try again if it is not perfect the first time. It's worth it.
I am sure others than chime in with good advice.
Good luck
thank you Foxx.
I already have Agraglass Gel for the bedding compound. and I already have the longer screws. I did a lot of reading and you tube viewing...
the wood on the Boyd stock directly behind the recoil lug was to long and was creating stress when I was putting back in the screws for the stock. I took my chisel and shaves off a good 1/8, et voila. no more stress and the holes for the screws align perfectly now..plus more space for the bedding...
thank you for the threaded lamp rod suggestion...I will look into it ( <- does it matter if the Savage receiver is round when using a threaded lamp rod?
Best to you
stef.
The way I remove the mag you have is put a big screw driver right where the clip bends at the mag then with the screw driver pointing at the mag body tap it with my hand or a small plastic headed hammer and it pops out. I have done this a couple dozen times and it works every time.
Plus 1Quote:
Originally Posted by bythebook
The best I have found is to use a rubber mallet and give it a pop from the front side (barrel side). The metal has enough spring in it to pop it out without bending it.
Dont try to make the pillar curve to match the receiver. Just cut and file flat and smooth. Pillars' job is nothing more thAn preventing the screws from crushing or compressing the stock under stress. The bedding material will probabley fill under the gap anyhow. Doesn't matter if it does though. Just have the action rest on top of the pillars. Be sure to drill the inside of pillars out a bit if there is any chance the are touching screws when done. Some people tape the screws before bedding so they are free floating. I think its easier to just skip that part and enlarge the inside diameter when done.