Bedding problems

I am trying to pillar and bed an old model 10 stagger feed blind mag into a Boyd's thumbhole. The first time I attempted this particular job I had difficulty removing the action from the stock and actually resorted to pounding the action screw guide bolts with a hammer to free it from the stock. I actually BENT one of the bolts while doing so. I don't think I damaged or bent the action, but...

the stock is split from the rear action screw pillar thru to the mag well. Once I discovered it, I drilled holes, cut slots, etc and filled with Devcon 10110. I figured I had repaired it better than new. Maybe. I re-bedded the action, all looked good. Installed the action screws, and was a little disappointed because I had some soft torque issues when tightening them. (I strive for free-turning action screws with a sudden STOP when tightening). Anyhow, afterwards, I realized I forgot to install the mag spring and follower, so I removed the action again from the stock and discovered the SAME crack reappeared in my bedding.

WHY??? What am I doing wrong? Is the action bent a little from my aggressive pounding of the screw bolts??? The bolt operates fine and smooth as silk. The way I look at it, even if it IS bent, if the bedding is done properly, it should not matter. I am currently trying to repair it one more time, with more compound, using JB Weld this time.

You used the wrong material. I have used AcraGlass to repair broken stocks with great success (use the original).
Devcon is a fine bedding material but for wood repairs AcraGlass is what you need.

I would use Acragel use the glass patch comes with it, You could use small brads to help hold it also.

When it comes to cracks like that, super glue is your best friend. I use a very hi-viscosity wicking grade that penetrates cracks. Most of the time you can't tell the crack even existed and it makes the wood around it stronger.

I dont know guys. Gorilla glue is the bomb in wood glues.

Bedding material is a different subject than crack repairs.

Im guessing your doing something wrong if you cracked the stock bedding it. Or was the stock cracked when you bought it. What was binding when you had to hammer the action out? Did you just bed it or was that the first time since you bought it?

Thanks, all. That was my guess. It was too thick. Need liquid stuff to flow into the voids.

Fred, I have a ton of superglue I could use, but now I am afraid I opened it up too much for that, now. Will crazy glue work to fill large voids? Something tells me it won't set.

Ok I reread your post sounds like it was the bedding.

Theres a few problems areas you have to address when bedding to prevent locking.

One is the recoil lug. Put two or three layers of tape on the front side and outsides of it

Big one is the guide bolts. I tape mine and coat in release. Make sure the tape covers all the threads up to the action or the bedding with seat into the threads.

Another is the sear. Be liberal with both release agent and modeling clay.

Also the grooves that hold the blind mag box. .fill them with clay

Never hammer unless there's no other option . Rock the action by the barrel and work it loose

I never figured out why it was so tough to remove. Just figured I missed something with release agent or created a mechanical lock somewhere. It was a new stock. I was really careful this time not to cause ay binding. But like I first said, even if I bent the action, I should be able to bed a bent action just as well as a straight one, right?

Now that you mention it, I think it was the blind mag, limige. And I knew hammering was bad, but I was p/o'ed and didn't care at that point. Was more than willing to destroy it! Now I am rethinking the whole affair.

Fill the crack with the super glue then quickly clamp it tight and leave it alone for a day.
If you decide to rebed it take the mag off the action and bed as if it is a dbm, that way it will not stick in the stock if a little compound gets in the mag well.

Another vote for Gorilla Glue, been there done that, you want to get that split pried open as much as possible then use a syringe to get the water in there. Gorilla glue requires the mating surfaces to be dampened with water and it is the BOMB for repairing wood.

Another vote for super glue which would be Loctite 420 available on amazon . com. It wicks and wicks and when it begins to puddle then it is saturated and clamp lightly or you will crush the wood and it will always try to spring apart. Then get brownells spray release agent and coat liberally.Use bedding screws and tape off the front and sides and bottom of your recoil lug.I remove the whole trigger assy and fill all voids around the attaching point of the mag boddy as well as all slots and milled reliefs in the receiver so the parts will go back together without having to dig out the bedding compound(I like marine tex) and let it cure enough to be solid and remove the action and let it cure.You will have to take a dremel to clean up the stuff that oozes into trigger clearance.One other note is to make several wraps around the barrel so when you put the action onto the stock it wont point down or up.Just put enough wraps to get it situated into the factory position.Make sure you rough the wood up so the bedding material will stick. I also free float the barrel and rear portion of the receiver behind the rear action screw.