Does anyone know whether Douglas buttons or cuts their riflings? I am pretty much down to a drop in Shilen or Douglas barrel for a project I'm working on, can anyone offer a case for one over the other?
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Does anyone know whether Douglas buttons or cuts their riflings? I am pretty much down to a drop in Shilen or Douglas barrel for a project I'm working on, can anyone offer a case for one over the other?
For some reason you have another post regarding the Quality of a McGowen. Though I haven't purchased a McGowen in over a year. Each of my older McGowen barrels (6) are extremely Accurate.
I would hope you would not limit yourself too the two makers you posted on this thread. There are many makers out there making mighty fine barrels with a whole lot less wait time. Benchmark,Brux are two with much less wait time. Benchmark taught the original McGowen smiths some tricks in making a quality barrel.
Neal
Douglas barrels are button rifled.Quote:
Originally Posted by msteele1632
Seems like your looking for a cut rifled barrel, majority of barrel makers use button rifling. The ones that use cut rifling is Krieger, Bartline, and Brux, I think that is it. Douglas, Pac Nor, Shilen, McGowen, Broughton, ER shaw, and many others are button rifled.
Sharp Shooters Supply sells both Douglas, and Brux.
I think Benchmark is cut rifled also.Quote:
Originally Posted by 82boy
As I understand it, making button barrels is a cheaper, quicker way of making barrel, compared to cut rifling. And Cut will last 2 to 3 times longer. I have one cut, and all the rest are button, and they all shoot about the same, under .3 or better for 5 at 100,(if im having a good day). The only difference I have found is, with the cut rifling, my first round with a clean cold barrel is always right in there, always under .5 even under .25 if I'm on that day. But my buttons, when clean and cold may shoot the first round off by 2" and take 3 to 5 to get back on the POA.
I'm using Pac-Nor barrels (Button) and have had vary good luck with all of them, and my one and only Cut is an H-S Precision, and its my best barrel of all. All of the buttons cost about the same. And there are lots of makers out there that make good barrels. A lot of guys will go with what ever some guy used to win a match, and im not sure thats the best way to decide on a new barrel. A lot more than just the barrel goes into winning a match.
M.
compared to cut rifling. And Cut will last 2 to 3 times longer.
Well... Not exactly.
For a similar rifling # and profile of land groove, I.E. height of lands (rifling profile), as well as same cartridge chambering. The button rifled barrel will last a tad longer than a cut barrel. The button barrel steel surface is work hardened during its rifling process, resists heat checking and errosion slightly better.
Typically say for a 22 or 6mm barrel. For a button barrel, one sees a 5-6 groove profile. For a cut barreled 22 or 6mm one sees a 4 groove profile.
In my experience 8 years shooting NBRSA/IBS 100/200 Benchrest (lotta barrels), these two types of rifling processes and profiles have for all intensive purpouses VERY similar competitive life spans. Same is true for the varmint hunter and paperpuncher, a similar barrel life span.
Now lets take an opposite approch.... Take a 6 groove cut barrel and a 3 or 4 groove button barrel. Now you will generally get 2x longer life span with the 3-4 groove button barrel. The 6 groove cut barrel will throat errode far quicker. And why it's rare to see a 6 or 8 groove cut rifled barrel.
Both rifling processes produce EXCELLENT barrels.
Hammer forged process really work hardens the bore but boy this rifling process induces A LOT of pent up stress in the steel that I do not believe can be entirely relieved. At least for a precision quality bore.
One must remember that barrels are despensible... They live and die.
I do like Tightgroups last statement:
"A lot more than just the barrel goes into winning a match."
So True....!
cale