more bedding questions

I have bedded my ruger 10/22's and now I want to bed my 110 .308. I have enough of my brownell kit, plus some jbweld and have ordered the pillar bedding kit from ebay, so I'm all set.

The procedure seems to be a little differant than how I did my .22's though. I did the pillar first with them, then the action. It seems like doing them in one unit, like the article suggests, would risk the action setting crooked in the stock. I'm not comfortable with the idea for some reason, maybe just because I've done it a differant way.

Also, I am wondering about suspending the rifle upside down during the curing process. I didn't do that for my .22's, it didn't even occur to me. Is this done because of the increased weight of the action? I used latex torniquets (like they use when you donate blood)
when I did the rugers. They are stretchy and flat, they're easy to control the tension on and stay tied.

The article also states that the trigger group might need 3 hands to assemble. I have not had a need to remove the trigger group, and I don't have my rifle in front of me, so I tried to search for a procedure for that and couldn't find one. The steps I did find didn't sound complicated, maybe it was for a differant model. Is this something I'm going to need a diagram for? I have the non-adjustable one.

My 110 worked well this past hunting season, I should probably leave well enough alone but since I am replacing the current crappy scope and rings, I may as well bed it, it can't be any worse than my 10/22's from the sound of it.

I can't wait to get a new scope on it! I've ordered a 1 piece picatinny rail mount, burris extreme tactical rings. I am planning on putting a bushnell elite 4200 3x9x40. I've ordered the low rings, I hope they work.

I hope bedding my rifle doesn't lead to an extensive gun building project. ;D That's what happened with my 10/22's. I actually have most parts for another one but it's too easy to turn a 200 gun into a 400 gun so I havn't started that one yet :D

Just curious, but why add pillars to a stock that is bedded to an action?

After bedding, the action screws really are not providing that much force, because the area the action covers is supported by the bedding job.

I agree with dcloco, bed it and forget the pillars. Keep it simple. Though JB Weld does a pretty fair job of bedding, I frecommend using Devcon Steel Putty. It sets up a bit faster and isn't as runny as J&B so it pretty much stays where you put it. I mix mine and let it sit for approximately 20 minutes before I butter it into the areas I want to bed. I use large c-clamps to secure the action until the bedding cures. Use Kiwi neutral shoe polish for a release agent, and the action will pop out when your ready to remove it.

u dont need 3 hands to get the trigger in just slide a punch through the hole that the pin that holds the trigger on goes and then push the spring in place and start the pin on in.

Thanks for the quick replies!

The pillars are for the holes where the takedown screws are, to keep the wood from being crushed by takedown screws. I have them in my 10/22's as well.

I have given it more thought and I think I now understand about bedding them while attached, it's to make sure they line up right. The rugers only have one takedown screw so I've never had a problem but I think I will try the suggested method when I do my savage.

I probably don't really "need" to do any of it, I only use the rifle for hunting and I've had zero problems making good shots with it. I have all this left over bedding stuff though, so I figured I may as well. It's kind of fun. I have used jb weld on a couple of my 10/22's but the brownell kit comes with "microballons" that enable you to adjust the consistancy and seemed easier to do. I have not tried the steel putty, I'll have to look in to that.

go http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html there is a good artical in the artical archives seciton on pillar bedding. I just finished my Stevens 200 and fhe results were amazing.

I use small steel or stainless washers under the boltheads for stocks that I worry of marring the finish on.

What I do to keep the action from setting crooked in the stock is wrap the barrel at the end of the stock with tape. The tape should be just big enough to fill the barrel channel. This centers the barrel in the barrel channel while the bedding compound sets.

Here is how I have always done mine and have never had any problems. Picture 5 is what I am talking about doing to keep the action/barrel straight.

Dolomite

Good you mentioned that Dolomite, I forgot to!

I am a big fan of Devcon for bedding, Kiwi shoe polish for release agent, and plumbers putty for keeping the Devcon out of areas it shouldn't be. I machine the pillars myself out of bar stock with deep groves to lock the bedding into the pillars. This puts the screw tension on the pillar not the wood. It's overkill but it works well.