what are the most common shim sizes for head spacing a new barrel . thanks , loader
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what are the most common shim sizes for head spacing a new barrel . thanks , loader
you do not need shims,adj. the barrel then lock the nut down
thanks for the reply , adjust the barrel to what please . slould i use an empty case and screw yhe barrel until it touches the bolt face and tighten it down thanks
Do a quick search for "headspace" and you will find a million threads. The only shims that I used are a piece of take on the back of a go-gage.
Place once fired shell in chamber, close bolt, screw barrel down to touch, tighten barrel nut, and you're done.
Larry
Tinkerer
I strongly advice against using another rifle fire formed brass. I bought some factory loads to shoot in a friends 7mm rm before deciding to build one. I kept the 3 shells for reloading. When i got the gun I wanted to feel the bolt new lift and place one of those shells in my rifle and the bolt will not close. Tried all 3 shells and no go. Opened up a bag of the new winchester brass I got for reloading and no problem closing the bolt. Thinking maybe something was wrong with the factory loads I stepped outside and load a live cartridge. Bolt closed with no problem... using your own fireformed brass should be fine. Make sure to fill the shell with jb weld to make sure the soft brass shell dont deform.Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerer
In your case, you might be better off getting a go gauge at min...
I would order a go gage and a no go gage if you are inexperienced. You can get them at midway or brownells or other big dealers. You screw the barrel down to touch the go gage and tighten the nut without moving the barrel.I usually bring it to touch and back off about a 32nd of a turn and then tighten the nut.Now recheck your work with the no go to make sure it doesnt close on the no go. If it does,loosen and try again till you get it right. The problem is if you tighten the barrel nut with the barrel right on the gage it can turn the barrel down tighter due to the nut dragging the barrel slightly tighter then you may need to.
thanks to all misson acomplshed
Using "your own" fireformed brass would be irrelevant, unless you were re-installing the same barrel you took off.
The brass is fireformed to the chamber in the old barrel...
You need a go gauge.
Hence why I said "in his case it would be better to use a gauge". However, seems he has already done it. However, if one has an option to get a loaned set of gauges then using the fireformed brass is a good idea. If you already have a gauge then it is irrelevant...
As long as the barrel dose not rotate it actually loosens on the gauge as the nut pushes the barrel and action in opposite directions.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbearman