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Most information I've seen says to just screw it down snug on the go-gauge.
I know it can't hurt to be extra cautious, but has anyone every done a barrel change out correctly and found a problem after with the no-go gauge?
I'd rather put the extra $25 towards the brake...
We make shims out of aluminum or cellophane tape and add to the back of the go gauge to get the no-go gauge. Better safe than sorry.Quote:
Originally Posted by tobnpr
Sure, some have found there gauges to be out of spec. Not very often, but it can happen.
I use scotch tape on the back of my go-gauge. Have not had a problem yet.
In addition to the taping to check go/no go, I use a procedure someone posted to measure the headspace after locking down the nut. Measure the length of a sized brass (like the one you just used), insert a spent primer and bolt it in; the difference is the headspace. With 2-3 checks you should get the same answer to insure consistent procedure. That way you will know what you actually have and can try different specs if you want.
No, you don't NEED it. It MAY be a good idea, but not needed.
I have done several barrel swaps now, and have not used no go's. I either use a go guage or a fired and full-length resized piece of brass for a go guage. Then I put one piece of scotch tape and make sure the bolt will almost close or close with some good pressure. Then I double check with two thicknesses of scotch tape to make sure the bolt won't even think about closing. If this is the case, I screw everthing down tight and recheck it. I haven't blown anythign up yet.......yet.
2 layers of scotch tape on a go gage and you have a no-go-gauge.
No it's not needed but why chance it? Go and No Go guages are not very expensive. For what is basically a controlled explosion going off just a few inches from my face I'll spend a few extra dollars for the peace of mind. It's your gun, your money, and your life, do what you wish. But as for me, I have checked and will continue to check my re-barrell jobs with both before using them.
Concern is noted. I'm one of those guys that buys them for used guns- especially for milsurps ( how someone can pick up an unknown, untested rifle that's 80 years old, chuck a round in and shoot it is beyond me)...Quote:
Originally Posted by efm77
But it just seemed that there is really no way for there to be an issue. If it's screwed down snug on the go gauge, it can't end up with increased headspace unless something moves during the barrel nut tightening process. Witness marks should make that apparent if that were to happen. But, this is my first re-barrel- which is why I asked.
Movement is possible. A couple times I've had to re do mine because when I started tightening the barrel nut the receiver rotated slightly. Just something to keep in mind.
The no go is no more accurate or safer than the two layers of scotch tape you still have to know a little bit about setting up your barrel and action!!!
That's why I tighten things down with the go gage in the chamber and maintain a slight amount of pressure on it while tightening the barrel nut. Haven't had one slip yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by efm77
I had the go gauge in the chamber when I did mine too but it got too tight anyway for my liking. The barrel still turned some and it wouldn't hardly close on the go gauge. Just my experience.
I must be the king of cheap,only use 1 layer of tape
drybean
i just did the same thing a few minutes ago on a 223. works good for me!Quote:
Originally Posted by drybean
I'm some kind of royalty also then.Quote:
Originally Posted by drybean
just measure the go gauge before and after the tape is added to it. Depending on the brands of tape you use the thicknesses can vary, so you just measure it and keep adding layers of tape till it is .004" longer(which would be the same measurement as a no-go gauge). Usually either 1 or 2 layers is what it takes, but have used some cheap stuff that took 3 or 4 layers.
If it is your first barrel swap however, I think you should buy the no-go gauge.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by brtelec
to layers = .003"