Uh-oh, did I screw up my Accustock?

I have a Model 10 Predator Max-1 in 243. This thing is amazingly accurate and my go-to rifle. Love it!

Today I noticed my rear tang was sticking up a tad and seemed to have a bit of movement when I pushed down on it. I'd recently missed a couple groundhogs out around 500+ so wondered if my action screws were loose. I got my torque wrench, reviewed the instructions here (http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,29836.0.html), and proceeded to start tightening in 10 in-lb increments. At 30 in-lbs the rear screw kept spinning so I removed it and found this. I was surprised to see it was a screw and not a threaded bolt - I thought this rear screw would secure the rear of the action? I can't tell if it broke or if it just pulled out of the material they expected it to screw into? Almost looks like some epoxy or repair was done to give the screw added grab. I'm very confused by this. ???

http://www.earlysvilleironworks.com/...earScrewsm.jpg

I always thought I had the 'original' Accustock with the 3 screws. The gun was purchased new August 2010, returned to Savage for an unrelated issue in October, resolved, then sent back to me.
http://www.earlysvilleironworks.com/...BottomView.jpg

So do I have a newer Accustock with only 2 forward screws that need torque? Here I go again learning the hard way :'(

Thanks for any clarification and advice. I'm worried this gun is sidelined for the rest of groundhog season while I get this resolved...

That screw does nothing but hold on the trigger guard,nothing to do with action or accuracy.
Just fill in the hole with epoxy and put in another screw, or use the next size up and screw back in.

Crap, you are right. I see what I did. The true rear screw is hidden under the bolt release. Dang it. Now I know.

The third action screw is under the bolt release (the sliding button at the front of the trigger guard) Hit the bolt release just like you were going to remove the bolt for cleaning and you'll see the third action bolt underneath.

Like rjtfroggy said, the screw you tightened just holds the trigger guard on. Just squeeze a little epoxy in there to patch the hole.

Andrew

You beat me to it. ;D

Andrew

Is epoxy the right thing to use? I was looking at it and wondering if that trigger guard and bottom metal part (it looks to be one piece) - does that need to come off the stock for periodic maintenance?

Fill the hole with epoxy, let it dry and just redrill it.

You're just giving the screw threads something to grab since the hole is stripped out. Don't epoxy the screw in, or like you said, you wont get it out.

Before you use epoxy, you better put some release agent (Kwiki clear shoe polish) on the screw threads and trigger gurard metal if you are going to let it set up in place. That will allow you to remove the screw/TG and you will have new threads in place. You only need about 15 lbs or torque on the rear TG screw or it will strip every time.

I slid a piece of jute cord up in it and the screw seemed to grab and hold pretty good. I tightened it medium-firm which is all that probably
needs

I only go about 10 inch lbs on the rear guard screw, never have any problems with any of my guns.

Expoxy should work great, apply it in the hole with a tooth pick, fill it up, then redrill it! I have never used a release agent with this procedure and again, no problems, screw goes in and out just fine!

If you feel better, apply release agent to the screw before putting in, won't hurt! Just a thin coat!