• Barrel Chamber Depth Verification

    One benefit of the Savage platform, whether it's an Axis or a 110-Series, is how easy it is to change barrels and how readily available pre-fit barrels are these days. Even though pre-fit barrels are intended to be ready to install right out of the box, it is highly recommended that you always check the chamber depth of any newly acquired barrel for proper machining depth before installing it on your action. This goes for pre-fits, factory take-offs, or any other barrel you plan to screw onto your rifle.

    Chamber depth is essential for proper case support and headspace. If the chamber depth is not correct it could leave the web of the case unsupported and result in a case separation upon firing. If the chamber is cut to deep the breech of the barrel will contact the face of the bolt head before the shoulder of the case bottoms out in the chamber.

    To check for proper chamber depth you will need a depth mic or a dial caliper as well as one of the following items:

    • Go-Gauge
    • Unfired factory loaded round
    • Full-length resized case from the dies you will be using to reload for this rifle

    To check the chamber depth of your barrel simply drop your go-gauge, factory round or FL resized case into the chamber and measure how much of the gauge or case protrudes from the breech of the barrel. For A Savage Axis or 110-Series barrel the go-gauge or case should protrude approximately 0.125 to 0.130".

    NOTE: Case protrusion for the Savage Model 110 BA in .338 Lapua Magnum is slightly different (0.140 to 0.145") as it uses a deeper bolt head than other cartridges.

    If the gauge/case protrudes less than 0.125" then the chamber was machined too deep and the breech of the barrel will need to be shortened accordingly by a competent gunsmith until the protrusion falls within the acceptable range. If the gauge/case protrudes more than 0.130" then the barrel was likely "short chambered" or not machined deep enough and the chamber will need to be finish reamed by a competent gunsmith.



    The photo's above show the author measuring the case depth of a factory Axis barrel
    in .25-06 Remington using a dial caliper and a factory loaded round.


    DISCLAIMER:
    The information contained in this article is for educational purposes only. Should you choose to use this information to alter or modify your firearm you do so of your own accord. In doing so you accept full responsibility for any adverse affects, damages, injuries and/or death that may occur as a result.



    Comments 10 Comments
    1. Stockrex's Avatar
      Stockrex -
      Mr Baker, is the protrusion of 0.125" for any caliber?
    1. Robinhood's Avatar
      Robinhood -
      You can use a caliper or depth mic and measure from the rim to the face of a bolt head of any rimless or rebated rim "cartridge" and you will see they are all very similar dimensional in the axis for the extraction feature. The Savage bolt head design dictates the length of the case protrusion. They all pretty much fall in the same depth. Even belted cases.
    1. sharpshooter's Avatar
      sharpshooter -
      The factory acceptable specs are .125" min, .130" max. for all calibers, EXCEPT the 110 BA .338 Lapua magnum, which is .140" min., .145" max.
    1. Bolthead's Avatar
      Bolthead -
      Great information. Thanks. That is what I love about this website.
    1. memilanuk's Avatar
      memilanuk -
      Excellent, thanks!
    1. Dhahn's Avatar
      Dhahn -
      Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
      You can use a caliper or depth mic and measure from the rim to the face of a bolt head of any rimless or rebated rim "cartridge" and you will see they are all very similar dimensional in the axis for the extraction feature. The Savage bolt head design dictates the length of the case protrusion. They all pretty much fall in the same depth. Even belted cases.
      Robinhood...Thanks. Your explanation covers/explains depth and protrusion compatibility!
      Dennis Hahn.. AKA (Dhahn)
    1. halfmile's Avatar
      halfmile -
      You should able to use this technique for re-throating worn barrels with just a reamer. After removing stock from the threaded end ream till you get the required .125" dimension and you're good to go.

      Set headspace with a new unprimed case, be sure the bolt will not close with a piece of Scotch tape on the case and that's it.


      HM
    1. Stockrex's Avatar
      Stockrex -
      Quote Originally Posted by halfmile View Post
      You should able to use this technique for re-throating worn barrels with just a reamer. After removing stock from the threaded end ream till you get the required .125" dimension and you're good to go.

      Set headspace with a new unprimed case, be sure the bolt will not close with a piece of Scotch tape on the case and that's it.


      HM
      one can rethroat without setting the barrel back?
    1. Hotolds442's Avatar
      Hotolds442 -
      "Removing stock from the threaded end" is the same as setting the barrel back.
    1. Stockrex's Avatar
      Stockrex -
      Oh I see it thanks



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