• How to: Ejector Install and Removal

    Now with the Retaining Pin started (shown by the green arrow) and the Plunger started (purple arrow) it is important to have the Plunger indexed so that the flat on its side is facing the Retaining Pin (orange arrow), otherwise the Retaining Pin will not go into it's blind hole due to making contact with the Plunger itself.




    Now with the Plunger indexed properly, I like to use a piece of fired brass and push the Plunger and Spring down into the blind hole. Once the brass has reached the bolt head's face, the Extractor will hook over the brass' rim and thus allowing you to hold the brass as pictured. This allows you to easily keep the Plunger and Spring depressed. Now, hold as shown, just take a small hammer and carefully drive the Retaining Pin (red arrow) into the bolt head. Note: Be careful as the pin is of small diameter and will bend easily. Careful easy strikes with your hammer is all that is required. If it does not go easily recheck all parts for proper alignment as shown above.




    And here is the bolt head with the Ejector and Extractor fully installed and ready for re-insertion back into the action.




    For ejector assembly removal just reverse the instructions above. Be sure to use the proper size punch to drive the Retaining Pin for its blind hole, and often factor installed ones prefer to be pushed from the top of the head towards the bottom ( the bottom is the side with the small flat machined into it).

    Also, if you are trying to remove a retaining pin on a bolt head with the ejector stuck in the down position, especially due to a blown primer, soaking in Kroil is a great way to help it loosen up. Also in some circumstances the retaining pin will actually get bent internally and jam internally causing the plunger to get wedged between the pin and the bolt head itself and often times are a real pain to remove. There is no sure-fire way in that situation, but Kroil is a great start.

    DISCLAIMER:
    The information contained in this article and/or the attached video are for educational purposes only. Should you choose to use this information to alter or modify your firearm you do so of your own accord. In doing so you accept full responsibility for any adverse affects, damages, injuries and/or death that may occur as a result.


    Comments 24 Comments
    1. Praeger's Avatar
      Praeger -
      Quote Originally Posted by Timberking 1955 View Post
      Texas10, Thanks for all the good info. I took the ejector out of the bolt, cleaned and polished. Then it worked about 1/2 the time. Was searching the internet and found a couple of old posts, Saying some brass ejected better than other's. Due to the thickness of the rim". I put it to the test over the weekend. Winchester, Remington 2 out of 5 would lay in the action. PCM 1 out of 5 . Switch to Federal and Lake City 5 out of 5 ... I'll see how it works out in the long run..
      What part of Texas are you in? Lipan here
      I had the same problem with my Savage 223 Varmint, although my parts lasted longer. I had planned on replacing the factory bolt head with a new PTG 223 precision head anyway and just ordered the Savage bolt head kit from the Gun Shack.

      http://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts...head-parts-kit

      The installation took all of 10 minutes and extraction and ejection of all brass brands is like new again - fast or slow, back to 100% reliable.
    1. Timberking 1955's Avatar
      Timberking 1955 -
      Quote Originally Posted by Praeger View Post
      I had the same problem with my Savage 223 Varmint, although my parts lasted longer. I had planned on replacing the factory bolt head with a new PTG 223 precision head anyway and just ordered the Savage bolt head kit from the Gun Shack.

      http://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts...head-parts-kit

      The installation took all of 10 minutes and extraction and ejection of all brass brands is like new again - fast or slow, back to 100% reliable.
      Mine is NEW less that 400 rounds..
    1. Finbarr Harkin's Avatar
      Finbarr Harkin -
      I have a problem in that my Ejector retaining pin is stuck in and will not hammer out, I am trying to tap it out from the correct side (from the side of the small hole) but it will not budge. I have tried soaking it in krill oil etc. but still it won’t budge. What would you advise that I do to remove this retainer pin?
    1. gunny8511's Avatar
      gunny8511 -
      Here's a great video that demonstrates the process in detail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E3FQoZzTLY