• How to: Ejector Install and Removal

    by
    bootsmcguire
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    Published on 02-18-2014 12:50 AM
    24 Comments Comments
    Pages: Page 2  Previous
    Now with the Retaining Pin started (shown by the green arrow) and the Plunger started (purple arrow) it is important to have the Plunger indexed so that the flat on its side is facing the Retaining Pin (orange arrow), otherwise the Retaining Pin will not go into it's blind hole due to making contact with the Plunger itself.




    Now with the Plunger indexed properly, I like to use a piece of fired brass and push the Plunger and Spring down into the blind hole. Once the brass has reached the bolt head's face, the Extractor will hook over the brass' rim and thus allowing you to hold the brass as pictured. This allows you to easily keep the Plunger and Spring depressed. Now, hold as shown, just take a small hammer and carefully drive the Retaining Pin (red arrow) into the bolt head. Note: Be careful as the pin is of small diameter and will bend easily. Careful easy strikes with your hammer is all that is required. If it does not go easily recheck all parts for proper alignment as shown above.




    And here is the bolt head with the Ejector and Extractor fully installed and ready for re-insertion back into the action.




    For ejector assembly removal just reverse the instructions above. Be sure to use the proper size punch to drive the Retaining Pin for its blind hole, and often factor installed ones prefer to be pushed from the top of the head towards the bottom ( the bottom is the side with the small flat machined into it).

    Also, if you are trying to remove a retaining pin on a bolt head with the ejector stuck in the down position, especially due to a blown primer, soaking in Kroil is a great way to help it loosen up. Also in some circumstances the retaining pin will actually get bent internally and jam internally causing the plunger to get wedged between the pin and the bolt head itself and often times are a real pain to remove. There is no sure-fire way in that situation, but Kroil is a great start.

    DISCLAIMER:
    The information contained in this article and/or the attached video are for educational purposes only. Should you choose to use this information to alter or modify your firearm you do so of your own accord. In doing so you accept full responsibility for any adverse affects, damages, injuries and/or death that may occur as a result.

    1. Categories:
    2. 110-Series,
    3. Axis Series
    Pages: Page 2  Previous
    Comments 24 Comments
    1. Dennis's Avatar
      Dennis - 02-18-2014, 02:50 PM
      Great information,
      Dennis
    1. silverduck's Avatar
      silverduck - 02-18-2014, 08:59 PM
      Dennis,
      Thank you for the demo, very professional .
      I appreciate that you sent me the kits[to replace the lost ones]You will get my business in the future!
      Take care, Michael
    1. Dennis's Avatar
      Dennis - 02-18-2014, 09:09 PM
      silverduck,

      I wish I could take credit for the demo, but bootsmcguire takes that credit.

      I am glad you received the kits.

      Dennis
    1. villarreal's Avatar
      villarreal - 02-27-2014, 03:48 PM
      Very good info, thanks.
    1. OldSoldier97's Avatar
      OldSoldier97 - 03-29-2014, 06:41 PM
      Again, just like the extractor, great, simple and a lot shorter than the YouTube explanation videos. Thank You!
      Now to decide what Magnum caliber to start with :)
    1. jerry shaw's Avatar
      jerry shaw - 04-21-2014, 03:43 PM
      Very helpful. Thanks.
    1. C7AR15's Avatar
      C7AR15 - 05-10-2014, 12:59 AM
      I have been on this site 2 minutes and found an excellent answer, with pictures, colored arrows and a great fix to my problem Thanks for your hard work in putting this together JD
    1. pdog2062's Avatar
      pdog2062 - 06-10-2014, 09:48 AM
      Instead of using fired brass to depress the ejector I put a 1/4 inch drive socket in the bolt head and put it in a vise. This gives two hands free.Only works on 308 heads.
    1. bootsmcguire's Avatar
      bootsmcguire - 06-12-2014, 11:49 PM
      Quote Originally Posted by pdog2062 View Post
      Instead of using fired brass to depress the ejector I put a 1/4 inch drive socket in the bolt head and put it in a vise. This gives two hands free.Only works on 308 heads.
      You could also use a pc of 45ACP brass in that situation.
    1. toppert's Avatar
      toppert - 08-30-2014, 02:09 PM
      Thank you very much!!!
    1. savage2014's Avatar
      savage2014 - 10-29-2014, 01:51 AM
      great info, thank you very much
    1. scpaul's Avatar
      scpaul - 11-15-2014, 03:22 PM
      Thanks, great for future referance, I"ll need it soon, Paul
    1. scpaul's Avatar
      scpaul - 03-24-2015, 07:39 PM
      Well, I said future referance, guess what happened to me/my rifle today? I really do appreciate it now!
    1. Texas10's Avatar
      Texas10 - 08-18-2017, 09:52 AM
      Very helpful article, and if I may be so bold, I'd like to add some detail that will greatly increase odds of a successful install, and not end up with a damaged retainer pin stuck in the bolt head...don't ask me how I know.

      To start with, get your hands on a 1/16" pin punch or drill bit, and a cartridge case. Note that the pictured bolt head is a right eject style, for a left eject you'll be doing the opposite that I describe.

      In general, you want to install the retainer pin starting on the side of the bolt that the ejector hole is located. On the pictured bolt head, this would be on the side with the machined flat however, on a left ejecting head, the flat is on the same side as the picture, but the retainer pin would be installed opposite the flat.

      Assemble the ejector and spring as shown. Snap a cartridge case into the head and pull it straight, compressing the spring and ejector. I am right handed so I hold the bolt in my left hand and use my index finger to hold the cartridge against the spring.
      Slide the 1/16 punch or drill bit into the retainer hole starting on the side opposite the flat. Push it through to the opposite side. It should almost, but not quite protrude from the head. You can remove the cartridge case at his point as it's job is done.
      Now slide the retainer pin into the head from the flat side as shown in the picture, and tap it in using a suitable driver such as a small hammer, driving the drill bit or pin punch out the opposite side as you go.
      Again, if working on a left ejecting head, work from the opposite side as in the picture.

      This method will insure that the ejector is deep enough and is not cocked in the bolt head, causing the retainer pin to become damaged while tapping in. It'll also keep parts from flying all over the shop. Don't ask....
    1. Timberking 1955's Avatar
      Timberking 1955 - 04-03-2018, 05:08 PM
      Question?? I have a 10/110 predator hunter max 1 in .223, I'm having Ejection problems. I pull the bolt back and the spent shell just lays on top of the mag...Extraction from the chamber is fine.. Now if yank the bolt back, like I'm tying to rip the bolt handle off.... It sometimes will Eject! All I can say is WTF... I've taken the the ejector out, cleaned it re-installed.. NO CHANGE.....Any thoughts on this???
    1. SageRat Shooter's Avatar
      SageRat Shooter - 04-03-2018, 05:11 PM
      It's probably the ejector spring, detent ball, and maybe the extractor... Savage is known to have rather "weak" extractors and ejectors... There is a replacement kit out there... I did that n my Axis and it is now ejecting again.
    1. Timberking 1955's Avatar
      Timberking 1955 - 04-03-2018, 06:10 PM
      Quote Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter View Post
      It's probably the ejector spring, detent ball, and maybe the extractor... Savage is known to have rather "weak" extractors and ejectors... There is a replacement kit out there... I did that n my Axis and it is now ejecting again.
      It's to bad that you go out , buy a new rifle and the first thing you have to do is replace parts. Down right suck. I will say I like the trigger and it's a tack driver. It would be nice if it was a reliable rifle..
    1. SageRat Shooter's Avatar
      SageRat Shooter - 04-03-2018, 07:04 PM
      Quote Originally Posted by Timberking 1955 View Post
      It's to bad that you go out , buy a new rifle and the first thing you have to do is replace parts. Down right suck. I will say I like the trigger and it's a tack driver. It would be nice if it was a reliable rifle..
      It will be.... Just gotta get the kinks worked out... Once you get it right, it'll be "good to go"... Funny story for you... I just bought a brand new 2017 RAM 1500 that I've put just over 2000 miles on.... (haven't even made my first payment yet) I have to take it in to the shop to have them fix the driver side passenger door handle (on the inside) as it's already trying to pop out of the door assembly.... You'd think that it would be perfect from top to bottom for what they cost these days...
    1. Texas10's Avatar
      Texas10 - 04-06-2018, 08:45 AM
      Two thing you can do. Get an improved extractor kit from Sharp Shooters Supply https://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

      and replace the extractor steel ball with a .140. http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...or-detent-ball

      These mods will help however, the real issue is that once the 223 cartridge case mouth exits the breech, it slams against the bolt abutment (frequently denting the case on the sharp corner) and it is this jarring that causes the extractor to let go. Moving the bolt rearward quicker helps, as you've noticed, but the heavy spring on the ejector and weak extractor spring are big factors. You can clip a loop or two off the ejector spring too and see if that improves the ejection.

      I removed the ejector from my 223 for target use. Made more sense than constantly chasing my carefully prepared brass. If going hunting, I simply put it back in.
    1. Timberking 1955's Avatar
      Timberking 1955 - 04-08-2018, 07:30 PM
      Quote Originally Posted by Texas10 View Post
      Two thing you can do. Get an improved extractor kit from Sharp Shooters Supply https://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

      and replace the extractor steel ball with a .140. http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...or-detent-ball

      These mods will help however, the real issue is that once the 223 cartridge case mouth exits the breech, it slams against the bolt abutment (frequently denting the case on the sharp corner) and it is this jarring that causes the extractor to let go. Moving the bolt rearward quicker helps, as you've noticed, but the heavy spring on the ejector and weak extractor spring are big factors. You can clip a loop or two off the ejector spring too and see if that improves the ejection.

      I removed the ejector from my 223 for target use. Made more sense than constantly chasing my carefully prepared brass. If going hunting, I simply put it back in.
      Texas10, Thanks for all the good info. I took the ejector out of the bolt, cleaned and polished. Then it worked about 1/2 the time. Was searching the internet and found a couple of old posts, Saying some brass ejected better than other's. Due to the thickness of the rim". I put it to the test over the weekend. Winchester, Remington 2 out of 5 would lay in the action. PCM 1 out of 5 . Switch to Federal and Lake City 5 out of 5 ... I'll see how it works out in the long run..
      What part of Texas are you in? Lipan here
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