• How To Remove A Stuck BAS and Disassemble Bolt

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    bootsmcguire
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    Published on 11-22-2013 02:19 AM
    17 Comments Comments
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    Here is the cocking button removed (orange arrow) and the inner sleeves lined up to allow button removal and installation (purple arrow).



    Once the cocking button is removed, the inner sleeve and firing pin assembly fall right out of the rear of the Bolt Body.



    This is the Bolt Head, Front Baffle, Spring Washer, and Retention Pin removed. After the firing pin assembly is removed from the rear of the bolt body, the Retention Pin can be pushed out and the rest disassembles as shown.



    Reassembly is just the reverse of the steps above.

    To re-install the BAS once you are to that point, move the Cocking Button to the position indicated by the arrow. Then thread in the BAS about 3 turns only.



    Then slide the Cocking Button as indicated from the Purple Arrow to the Orange Arrow. You can use your thumb or the corner of a counter, table, or work bench to apply pressure to move the button. Once the button is in place at the orange arrow then just use your 1/4" allen to screw the BAS in the rest of the way and tighten hand tight.



    That's it. Bolt tear-down and reassembly made easy.


    DISCLAIMER:
    The information contained in this article and/or the attached video are for educational purposes only. Should you choose to use this information to alter or modify your firearm you do so of your own accord. In doing so you accept full responsibility for any adverse affects, damages, injuries and/or death that may occur as a result.

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    2. 110-Series,
    3. Axis Series
    Pages: Page 2  Previous
    Comments 17 Comments
    1. fitter565's Avatar
      fitter565 - 11-22-2013, 06:45 AM
      Great job!!!
    1. Big_lu_lu's Avatar
      Big_lu_lu - 11-23-2013, 12:46 AM
      Thanks...how does one remove the ejector and extractor?
    1. bootsmcguire's Avatar
      bootsmcguire - 11-23-2013, 11:02 AM
      Quote Originally Posted by Big_lu_lu View Post
      Thanks...how does one remove the ejector and extractor?
      I'll look into doing another how to thread on that also. If you need to know asap pm me and I'll help u thru it.
    1. MadMarty911's Avatar
      MadMarty911 - 12-28-2013, 09:45 PM
      Thanks for this! Just about to use a bolt lift kit and your disassembly instructions are much better!
    1. bootsmcguire's Avatar
      bootsmcguire - 12-28-2013, 11:08 PM
      I was working on a build, and it just seemed like a great time to snap some pictures and make a "How To" thread on it since it is a question that often comes up. Figured if it saved at least one person some trouble, it was time well spent. Glad it helped you out.
    1. Imaybail's Avatar
      Imaybail - 02-11-2014, 09:03 PM
      Great job on the instructions!
    1. oldmannewlady's Avatar
      oldmannewlady - 09-23-2014, 10:52 PM
      Wow, I can do that, I think? Thank you
    1. CarolinaShooter's Avatar
      CarolinaShooter - 12-15-2014, 04:21 PM
      I have a BAS that the hulk torqued. Even the above advice didn't work
    1. bootsmcguire's Avatar
      bootsmcguire - 12-15-2014, 05:44 PM
      Dang. You just need a fatter person to hop on it.

      Seriously though, try soaking it with kroil for a day or so.
    1. CarolinaShooter's Avatar
      CarolinaShooter - 12-22-2014, 09:01 AM
      Got it! I put it on a piece of scrap laminate flooring and got a combat boot on. I was having difficulty due to the softness of my carpet and rubber of my shoe.
    1. MarketingSlime's Avatar
      MarketingSlime - 04-04-2015, 07:28 AM
      I'll admit that stepping on the bolt/allen wrench was a bit scary, but dang, if it didn't do the trick!

      Thanks Boots!
    1. bootsmcguire's Avatar
      bootsmcguire - 04-06-2015, 12:45 AM
      Glad it is helping you guys out. Remember to use a decent quality Allen Wrench when doing this. Those cheap, soft Chinese made ones can snap or round off before it breaks the bolt loose.
    1. Texas10's Avatar
      Texas10 - 04-14-2015, 06:23 AM
      Your trick worked great! So…... how often should a bolt be disassembled and cleaned? Should I use an Ultra Sonic cleaner on any parts? And how much of what kind of lube should be used and what parts should or should not be lubed?
    1. bootsmcguire's Avatar
      bootsmcguire - 05-03-2015, 11:01 PM
      Me personally. If it is a hunting gun, I will take it apart and check for dirt and grime and wipe the parts down. as long as there is still and oily feel to them then I'm good to go. With oil based lubes, less is more. Too much oil will slow bolt parts during their travel, especially in sub-freezing weather. You should have a light oily film on all the internal parts.

      You can sonic clean, but I have yet to have one dirty enough where I thought I needed to.

      Sorry for the delay in my reply. My life has gotten exceptionally busy the last couple months and I have not had much time for the forum.
    1. RC20's Avatar
      RC20 - 05-20-2016, 05:38 PM
      Thank you, mine was stuck big time, everything said it should come off. Pretty new gun too. I had both on the same side and have used that often on other things, this one was too stubborn and that including rubber mallet and then light steel tap.

      I modified it a bit, took off the rear baffle before as it slide forward and around and off, I used a rubber mallet on a towel on the work bench (wood) and off it came.
    1. Bjjdude's Avatar
      Bjjdude - 05-22-2017, 12:15 PM
      I tried everything to get the darn BAS off my 10 BA stealth bolt, I am a pretty big and strong fella and no go, standing on it with two feet (300lbs) while pushing a 45 lbs Olympic weight plate down on the bolt handle, no go. YouTubers just left the bolt in the gun for "leverage" but they did say it "would not be this easy if it was the first time" Talk about an understatement! Ridiculously, super, hulk-like tight! So finally but the bolt in my 35-pound Pony heavy-duty vice with pipe jaws protected bolt body with leather wrap and whacked bolt handle with a 6-pound hammer a bunch of times. Then and only then did it give. No damage to bolt, thank God. That thing can take a nuke, I'm sure now. I don't understand why it needs to be so **** tight.
    1. mizmoose's Avatar
      mizmoose - 11-08-2020, 05:19 PM
      Have a 116 FSK in 338 Win Mag mfg in July 1994......the BAS is Stainless, but old style slotted screw....anyone know where I can get a stainless BAS in the allen wrench current style...contacted Savage they said its part of the bolt mechanism and therefore part of the receiver ...thus an FFL item...ugggghhhh....
      desperate for advice..