• Savage Axis Bolt Dissembly and Assembly Instructions

    Pull out mainspring from rear of bolt. Using a fine file, stone or sandpaper, smooth the back of the spring. The reason the BAS was hard to disassemble was that the rearmost cut end of the spring was digging into the inside of the BAS and keeping it from turning. By smoothing the end of the mainspring, you will make it much easier to unscrew the BAS in the future.



    After smoothing end of mainspring, unscrew BAS by squeezing the bolt handle and allen wrench with your hands, instead of having to step on it.

    Remove bolt handle by sliding it off end of bolt.



    Remove cocking piece pin by pulling up from the side of the bolt (radially).



    Pull firing pin out from the rear of the bolt.



    Push bolt head against bolt body to relieve pressure on bolt head retaining pin. If bolt head retaining pin does not fall out, push out with fingers.



    Remove bolt head, front baffle, and front baffle washer.




    Step three: Bolt reassembly.

    Insert bolt head, front baffle washer and front baffle into bolt body as shown. It is recommended by some that the washer location be changed from its factory location. If you install front baffle washer in between the bolt head and front baffle, the front baffle won’t wipe lubricant from the rear of bolt head lugs each time you cycle the bolt.



    Make sure that hole in bolt body and hole in bolt head are lined up. Press bolt head and bolt body together while inserting bolt head retaining pin into bolt body, through hole in bolt head, and out the other side of bolt body. Ensure hole for the firing in is parallel with the axis of bolt body as shown.



    Insert firing pin into rear of bolt body and through the hole in bolt head retaining pin. Tip of the firing pin should protruding through bolt head when fully inserted.



    Insert cocking piece pin through cocking ramp cutout in bolt body into hole in the firing pin.



    Insert mainspring as shown. Forward end of mainspring should rest in firing pin slot and also acts to retain or "capture" cocking piece pin.



    Make sure firing pin is in the fired position.

    Comments 17 Comments
    1. fsr402's Avatar
      fsr402 -
      That is a great write up. I actually think I could do this without any issues.
    1. fla9-40's Avatar
      fla9-40 -
      Good job, very detailed... Thanks!
    1. thomae's Avatar
      thomae -
      You are quite welcome. I'm simply trying to be helpful.
    1. fsr402's Avatar
      fsr402 -
      Question, there is no mention of lubricating the bolt. What is the best lube to use and what needs to be lubed? Also a little OT but how did to get an acutriger in the axis?
    1. thomae's Avatar
      thomae -
      There are as many opinions about lubing bolts as there are about politics. So I didn't get into that.
      Any time you have metal to metal sliding contact, I would use some sort of lubricant.
      You don't want to put so much on that it gets into the chamber, or so that it gunks up the works.
      Lubrication traps dirt and crud, eventually resulting in a sort of abrasive sludge.
      Personally, I use oil and a thin coating of green grease (cocking ramp and cocking piece pin, mainspring). But, I also disassemble and clean my bolt probably more often than necessary so I don't worry too much about grit buildup.

      I am sure that others will chime in with differing opinions...but the bottom line is that it should be kept clean and lubricated.

      The accutrigger? I was wondering when someone would notice. I retrofitted that myself. I'll probably do an article one of these days (I think I took photos).
      If you have an accutrigger and want to do the retrofit right away, PM me and we can talk. It's not too difficult.
    1. fsr402's Avatar
      fsr402 -
      Thanks for this help. My axis is misfiring so this write up has come when I need it.
    1. thomae's Avatar
      thomae -
      You're welcome...just saw your other post. I won't respond to it, since I answered here...but maybe you will get some other opinions...and likely they will be just as good or better than my opinion, no doubt.
    1. devildogandboy's Avatar
      devildogandboy -
      i thought this to be an excellent article, well written!
      thanks thomae!!
    1. Urbanistic's Avatar
      Urbanistic -
      Fantastic :)
    1. jheger's Avatar
      jheger -
      is the savage axis bolt different from the savage model 10 bolt? Thanks
    1. thomae's Avatar
      thomae -
      Quote Originally Posted by jheger View Post
      is the savage axis bolt different from the savage model 10 bolt? Thanks
      Yes very much so. Look through the articles and I believe there is one or more about the Savage model 10/110 bolt. I know there is at least on about adjusting firing pin protrusion (which you can not do easily on an Axis)
      If you need help, PM or better yet, start a new thread. (in the appropriate section, of course. )
    1. Ravenhurst's Avatar
      Ravenhurst -
      Thank you for this post. I just picked up a Model 11 Trophy Hunter XP, and was baffled as to how to take the bolt handle off. Glad I stumbled on this. Membership earned!
    1. 62chevy's Avatar
      62chevy -
      Awesome as I needed this howto.
    1. boodfrt's Avatar
      boodfrt -
      Does the front baffle go on one way or don’t matter
    1. wbm's Avatar
      wbm -
      Anybody know what became of Thomae?
    1. J.Baker's Avatar
      J.Baker -
      If I recall correctly he was spending a lot of time helping take care of a family member in poor health, but that's been a couple years ago now.
    1. sledvet77's Avatar
      sledvet77 -
      STEP 3...are you recommending to put the front baffle washer in between the front baffle and the bolt head or in a different location....and does it matter which way its facing as it is concave?