• Factory 3-Screw Trigger Adjustment Procedures

    I've never been able to find a single thread with good photos and detailed explanations of how to adjust a factory trigger on my new-to-me 10FP, so I decided today to snap some pictures and write this thread. Hopefully it will be useful to anyone looking for this information in the future. If anyone notices any errors or omissions, please let me know and I'll update this post.

    Tools needed: Small slotted screwdriver, 5/32" and 5/64" Allen wrenches.

    Step One - Remove stock from action: After verifying the weapon is safely unloaded, remove the stock from the action by securing the action in a barrel vise (or some other suitable method of holding it upside down to work on - the flat rear on this model is well-suited to resting on a raised block with the barrel lifted at the other end) and removing the two action screws. These are both 5/32-inch Allen screws. The third screw at the rear of the trigger guard does not need to be removed to get the stock off of the action.


    You'll end up with this:

    Here's the parts that can be adjusted:


    Step Two - Adjust trigger pull weight: Turning the trigger return spring adjustment screw (small slotted screw with a hole through the center, labeled in the photo as trigger pull weight adjustment screw) counter-clockwise will lighten the trigger pull. The opposite end of the screw is notched every 90 degrees to prevent rotation after adjustment. Care must be taken to not loosen this adjustment too much or there is a chance the trigger could release by jarring the rifle. The spring tension on this screw is what keeps the sear from inadvertently disengaging (sear adjustment is next).



    Step Three - Adjust sear: This screw adjusts the trigger "creep," or how for the trigger pulls before the sear releases and the weapon fires. Cock the firing pin by rotating the bolt handle toward the floor and back. Make sure the safety is OFF (forward) and turn the sear adjustment screw (5/64" Allen screw) clockwise until the firing pin releases. Now turn the screw counter-clockwise a half-turn. This should give adequate engagement to prevent accidental firing while still allowing minimal creep. If the lip on the sear notch is worn it may be necessary to back off a bit more to prevent accidental firing. (The tension on the trigger pull weight spring is what keeps the sear in the notch before you pull the trigger. This is why you don't want the trigger pull weight too light.) NOTE: The trigger is made of sintered metal. Filing or otherwise removing some of the surface of the sear notch will expose softer metal under the hard surface and make the notch more prone to premature wear, eventually leading to more creep and/or a sloppy trigger pull. If the notch is worn or damaged, buy a new trigger. Or upgrade to a better aftermarket trigger!


    After firing:


    Step Four - Adjust safety:
    After adjusting the sear, the safety will almost always need to be adjusted. Cock the firing pin and slide the safety to ON (rearward). (Depending on the amount of sear adjustment, you may need to turn the safety adjustment screw counter-clockwise to do this.) Once the safety is ON, turn the safety adjustment screw (5/64" Allen screw) clockwise until the opposite end contacts the safety block. Don't turn it so tightly that you can't disengage the safety easily (you should be able to slide the safety ON and OFF with the firing pin cocked). With the safety ON, try to pull the trigger. It should be IMPOSSIBLE to pull the trigger with the safety ON. It should be IMPOSSIBLE to accidentally fire the weapon with the safety ON.


    Step Five - Adjust trigger overtravel: Overtravel is how far the trigger will move after the sear releases and the weapon fires. Turning the overtravel adjustment screw (5/64" Allen screw) clockwise will decrease the amount of pull past the sear release. With the safety OFF (forward) turn this screw until it contacts the safety block. At this point there should be no overtravel and it will likely be impossible to pull the trigger at all, so turn the screw counter-clockwise until the overtravel is set to your personal preference.



    That's it! Your Savage factory trigger is now fully adjusted. Reassemble the action and stock and test the safety by cocking the weapon and banging the butt of the weapon on a hard floor. Do whatever it takes to feel secure in the knowledge that your gun will NEVER accidentally discharge. This cannot be stressed enough. SAFETY FIRST!

    Happy shooting!


    Additional Notes:
    1. After making adjustments be sure to use some Blue Loc-Tite or suitable alternative to prevent the the screws from self-adjusting under recoil. Failing to do so could result in an accidental discharge.

    2. The pull weight spring wire can be replaced with common piano wire measuring 0.040 to 0.045" in diameter rather than or in addition to backing off the adjustment screw to achieve a lighter weight.

    3. Very light stoning of the sear mating surface of the trigger can be performed to lessen a notchy or gritty feel to the trigger pull. Extreme care must be taken here as this is a surface hardened piece, so the less stoning you do the better. If you wear through the surface hardening the part will need to be rehardened or it will wear. Also, you do not want to alter the mating angle, the goal here is to simply smooth out the mating surface which the sear contacts.


    Information and photos submitted by PDBreske


    DISCLAIMER:
    The information contained in this article and the attached video are for educational purposes only. Should you choose to use this information to alter or modify your firearm you do so of your own accord. In doing so you accept full responsibility for any adverse affects, damages, injuries and/or death that may occur as a result.


    Comments 18 Comments
    1. jim36's Avatar
      jim36 -
      Excellent pix and good instructions.
    1. ellobo's Avatar
      ellobo -
      The last thing I did when I finished my .35 Whelen was to adjust the trigger using written instructions on this forum. Turned a pretty average trigger into an excelent trigger. After sighting in my first three shots could be covered by a quarter. Much of it I attribute to a good trigger. These isntructions are excellent, thanks PD
      El Lobo
    1. kevin_stevens's Avatar
      kevin_stevens -
      I found this description straightforward, easy to follow, and incredibly helpful. Took my 116 from about a ten pound pull with noticeable creep and almost 1/8" of overtravel to a clean, crisp, 4lbs or so in about five minutes. Thanks very much!

      KeS
    1. oneshot57's Avatar
      oneshot57 -
      Is this also for a 12FLVSS ?
    1. rman's Avatar
      rman -
      Great post. I wish I would have had this years ago. I adjusted the trigger on my nephew's 110 .270 Win and had to learn it the hard way. It took me hours to get the trigger light, mostly creep-free and most importantly - safe. This would have made it easy.
    1. bobcat30's Avatar
      bobcat30 -
      Good write up!!!
    1. Smokey262's Avatar
      Smokey262 -
      How come it is asking me to log in when I am already logged in?
    1. thomae's Avatar
      thomae -
      Click the box that says "remember me" or something like that and it will hopefully work for you. That's what I had to do.
    1. WhiteFeather's Avatar
      WhiteFeather -
      I found this description straightforward, easy to follow, and incredibly helpful. I just adjusted the trigger on my 110FP
      308. Winchester that I just purchased used. It was having issues of going off on the bolt closing I have it set to about 3lbs with the safety adjusted. Thanks!
    1. hub's Avatar
      hub -
      Great instuctions. I turned the trigger tension screw only half a turn counter clockwise and the trigger pull went fron over seven to 4.5 according to my RCBS pull tool. Sweet. I have not hit the range yet but will soon. I,m sure my savage 110E in 30:06 will be a lot easier to shoot groups.
    1. Ghost65's Avatar
      Ghost65 -
      Great tutorial
      Is this the same trigger set up as on the 112?
    1. jhelmuth's Avatar
      jhelmuth -
      What happened... I can't get this?
    1. thomae's Avatar
      thomae -
      The old link is no good. Here is the updated link to the new location of this article.
      http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ent-Procedures
    1. 44magleo's Avatar
      44magleo -
      Very good write up. I have a Stevens 200. My trigger doesn't have the sear engagement screw or the over travel screw. This helped me understand how the different parts interact. Even without the extra screws this help me.
      I have it set to 4 lbs and it breaks fairly clean and very little over travel.
      Leo
    1. futurerider103's Avatar
      futurerider103 -
      I am blocked from this page
    1. cchgn's Avatar
      cchgn -
      OK, I have a situation. I followed the instructions and have found myself in a pickle. Everyting's fine until I get to the safety screw. I screw it down until the trigger won't pull with the safety on, but then the safety switch won't operate. So then i back it off until the switch works, but then the trigger pulls with the safety on. Back and forth and back and forth. Any ideas?

      Also, IDK, why they call it a 3 screw trigger, there's 6 screws that can be adjusted and 4 of them are on the trigger; 1) the trigger pull weight screw; 2) the screw on the safety bar; 3) The safety screw (that's on the trigger); 4) the over-travel screw (on the trigger); 5) The sear screw (on the trigger); 6) the screw on the back of the trigger that bears down on the trigger pin.

      I'd like to add another way of looking at it (that helped me tremendously). In the sprit of the "go- no go" theme- adjust the screws to a "no go" situation and then back off to a "go" and it's good: The screw on the safety bar itself should be adjusted. Too tight and the safety won't work, too loose and safety will have too much play- there should be no (up and down) play in the safety switch- so, screw down until the safety won't work (no go), then back it off just until it does(go).

      BTW, the safety is a 3 position switch: all the way back -safety is on- trigger won't pull and bolt will not open. Middle position- trigger won't pull,
      bolt WILL open,; all the way forward- firing position - trigger pulls, bolt will cycle. ALL 3 positions should be positive and firm. if not, the flat spring on the safety bar is too loose against the pin.


      The sear screw: as per instructions up above- cock the bolt, safety off, screw it clockwise until it trips the sear, then back it off at least 1/2 (or more) turn.


      The safety screw (on the trigger) makes sure the trigger won't pull when the safey is on. Too tight and safety won't work (no go), too loose and the trigger will fire with the safety on. Screw it down until the safety won't work. Then back it off just enough for the safety to work (1/16") (go). That's the "drop test" screw.


      The over-travel screw: too tight and sear won't release, too loose and the gun will fire with the bolt closing. So tighten the screw until sear won't release (no go) and then back it off until it does, then another 1/4 turn (go).


      The trigger pull weight screw- clockwise increases trigger pull, counter- clockwise lessens, but on my rifle, no matter where I adjust it, it has 2 1/2lbs pull, period.

      Finally the screw on the back of the trigger itself, it screws againt the trigger pin and afaik, doe nothing but increases trigger pull. Hope that helps.
    1. cchgn's Avatar
      cchgn -
      So I contacted Savage.com and they said they couldn't help me, that they don't mess (at all, in any way shape or form) with any Savages made prior to 1995.
    1. Dave Hoback's Avatar
      Dave Hoback -
      I’m going to add a bit as some of cchgn’s assertions are incorrect. The 3-screw trigger he has is the most elaborate. Not every 3-screw has a safety bar with a set screw or a set screw in back of the trigger. The screw in the Safety Bar is there to keep it in parallel dimension with the trigger & Action above. If the screw is adjusted too loose, the safety bar will “lean” forward & the safety will not function. The screw on the back of the trigger is not an adjustment whatsoever. Again, this design does not use e-clips to hold the pins in place. Rather, the trigger pin has a depression in the middle. The set screw is in place to hold the trigger pin in the center. It should be adjusted the screw tip is in the depression of the pin, but not bottomed out on the pin, otherwise it will lock the pin from turning in the bracket. As the screw is a tighter fit in the trigger hole, not turning in the bracket causes additional rotational torque, giving the feeling of a heavier pull weight. Lastly, the overtravel screw also has no bearing on the trigger tripping accidentally. Setting it too loose simply allows the trigger to be pulled further than it should be. This adds to a “sloppy” feel. Correctly adjusted & limited overtravel give a trigger pull that “Glass Rod” like break; that feeling of the trigger just falling away. There is much more to a trigger’s pull than simply the weight a little gauge tells us. A human finger has approximately 3000 “touch” receptors or, nerve endings at the tip which send signals to our brain. All of the characteristics of the trigger including Pull Weight, Take Up, Creep, Smoothness, Break & Over-Travel, all work together to generate the .feel of what we call a “Good” trigger.