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larryk40c
05-08-2011, 09:08 AM
Hi, Has anyone tryed the V-Block on any of the target actions yet?
Thanks Larry

nuclabuyer
05-08-2011, 11:27 AM
Havent tried it on a target action but I have 2 savage 110's using the V-Blocks. I glass bedded 1 over the top of the block, I dont think that is needed. Fit and finish is goog everything fits perfect. Let me know if you need some particular info.

larryk40c
05-08-2011, 03:30 PM
Thanks, Do you think it is better than bedding it. I have read a few reviews about it but they were on rems.
Larry

nuclabuyer
05-08-2011, 06:10 PM
I would imagine that glass bedding would be better if it is done professional or as good professional. But I dont know how much better, for me since I suck as glass bedding I think I get better results with the block. I have a 6mm Dasher with a bedding block and it is impressive.
Hope that helps

jdhord
05-09-2011, 04:19 PM
I have a target action with a v-block and just finished up a small shank with a v-block. They are easy to install if you have access to a mill. I can't say if they are more or less accurate than traditional bedding, but I've had good luck with them, the action clamps in there nice and solid.

gotcha
05-09-2011, 04:35 PM
I've been interested in the V-block also. Nice to hear the positive comments. However, w/ all the comments about uneven receiver rings relating to scope mounting lately, I'm wonderin'. I'm sure you could check the V-blocks fit to your action w/ Di Kem. But if it doesn't mate properly, what next?.................. Anybody?

jdhord
05-10-2011, 07:56 AM
I check the fit with fluid and/or a bit of grinding compound, "work" the action back and forth and then take a look. So far mine have been pretty good, just a couple small high/low spots.

oldguy
05-10-2011, 09:06 AM
I've seen these never installed, how much work/skill involved.?

jdhord
05-10-2011, 09:39 AM
While I suppose you could do it with wood tools, it's a lot easier to use a mill. It takes longer to setup in the mill than it does to make the cuts. The one I did yesterday, I indicated the stock in various points to find the best "average" of level and straightness, then went down .500" off the top of the original front pillar to make the base for the block. Then it's just rooting out the wood and making a little extra clearance around the block for the epoxy. Basically you just mill out a 3-sided rectangle from the front of the existing recoil lug pocket, on back a little past the rear action screw. Here's a pic:

http://www.hordpower.com/gallery/albums/guest/May2011_002.sized.jpg

gotcha
05-10-2011, 12:23 PM
jdhord, A picture is worth a thousand words! Nice pic! It appears the v-block butts up to the rear action screw rather than surrounding it. What type of action will you install? Will you also use Pillars? Sure wish I had equipment like yours................... NICE Thanks, Dale

oldguy
05-10-2011, 12:46 PM
I emailed Whidden and they returned with install instructions(including pictures) within minutes, excellent service, process does not look that difficult.

jdhord
05-10-2011, 01:35 PM
Dale-

The block has ~ 1/2" diameter pillars that are machined separately but are integral to the block when it is all assembled. They fit into machined recesses in the block. The front pillar is eccentric, turn it one way for 4.27" and the other way for 4.40", very clever design. The action bolts are then free to float inside the pillars. So essentially between the pillars and the epoxy, the block is very firmly embedded in the stock, even though the rear surface does not butt up against the stock anywhere like it does with the Remington versions.

I did things a little differently than the instructions from Whidden. They have you mount the action to the block, then butter up everything with epoxy and place it in the stock. I buttered and mounted the block first, cleaned up all the excess epoxy that squeezed out, then mounted the action and got everything aligned. I gently removed the action, cleaned up things again, then remounted the action and let it sit overnight to cure. That way you don't have to worry about getting epoxy all over your action.

I have a couple of small shank actions, one is a Shilen 6BR and the other is a factory 7-twist .223. I also have a target action with a Krieger 6BR barrel. Between this BVSS stock, a Bell and Carlson tactical, and a Savage Doctor/Precision Rifle F-class, I can switch any of my actions into any of the stocks.

rsbhunter
05-10-2011, 08:01 PM
Does any one know if the block can be used in a factory Stevens or Savage synthectic stock? And would it be a gain or a wash? Thanks, rsbhunter

gotcha
05-10-2011, 09:14 PM
Hord, You're a man after my own heart. Neat , clean, precise.......... The switchability is an interesting plus. We switch bbl's, why not stocks ! Another "barrel nut" & I have been talking about visiting Whiddens shop. Just down the road a piece really. I think you've just convinced me the trip would be worth while. So what, if we have to ride double on a Mini-bike to save gas ;D Old guy, thanks for the tip on the web site!

larryk40c
05-11-2011, 06:58 AM
Very interesting, Thanks all for the info. I have one on the way.