savage 110BA replacement barrels, bolts, lugs

[efm77]

So if the part numbers are the same for both receivers how is that proof that they still undergo the same heat treatment/temper process? Did they confirm that? I don't know which is why I'm asking. The 338 Lapua is cool and all but I'd be a little worried about lug setback if I wasn't totally sure the receiver had the same heat treatment as the on originally made for the Lapua.

[memilanuk]

Do you really think they would have pieces with the same part number not undergo the same production processes - whatever they may be? That would be a logistical night-mare in the making. Remember, this is a *factory*, not some mom-n-pop shop making a couple at a time.

I think you're worrying over much of nothing, as .338 Edge and .338LM cartridges are chambered somewhat regularly in 'regular' long action receivers, both Remington & Savage.

The 110BA is a much beefier receiver than your standard 110 long action of just a few years ago. One, it has the solid-top/small ejection port design from the Target Actions, which adds to the over all strength a fair bit. Two, the front stock bolt threads into the 'meat' of the action behind the bolt lugs, like the newer short actions, instead of into the relatively thin tube wall where the threads for the barrel are, so it gets full engagement, not just a couple threads worth. When we talked to the engineers about some of these things back before these guns came out, they said that the newer actions held up to pressures that would have destroyed the older ones. When we toured the factory and ogled the indoor test range and saw the test chambers they use to destructively test the guns... they had a couple 110BA .338LM and .300WM on 'death row' waiting to be tested. We asked how the guy how he planned to blow up the .338LM - he said 'load it full of Blue Dot' :o No, they wouldn't let us stay and watch ;)

[efm77]

That's kinda what I thought but just wasn't sure. I know the Lapua has been chambered in the regular actions but I've heard some smith's, Sharp Shooter Supply included, say they've experience lug setback and even chamber swelling on the small shanks. That's why I'm leary of it. I know the BA has been beefed up enough for it but just wasn't sure if the 300 win mag BA was too. Thanks for the info.

[ghostwriter]

OK, After extensive searching and numerous calls to a few different people this is the result of everyone's awesome input and help.
Savage has agreed that the 110 BA in the .300 Win Mag/,338 Lapua Mag rifle has the same receiver and the only difference is the bolt assembly (bolt face), the barrel, and magazine. Here's what they have agreed to do...

Parts required:

Bolt Assembly for .338 LM $202.
Barrel chambered for .338 Lapua $211.
Muzzle Brake (same for both calibers) $60.
Magazine for .338 LM $113.


They will assemble and test fire the rifle and return all parts to me in a condition to re-assemble it here at my convienence or necessity to either caliber and do it within 2 weeks for a total of $655.00

What a deal. It took quite a bit of conversation to explain they were the same rifle, just different chamber and bolt, but I was able to get what I wanted. Thank you all.

[efm77]

Cool glad to hear it. Good luck. I wondered if the 300 version was also a large shank but that answers that question. I'm surprised though that they're charging that much for the bolt. They must be replacing the entire bolt instead of just the bolt head.

[ghostwriter]

Yes, you are correct, they need to supply a whole bolt assembly to make this switch of calibers as quick and painless as possible... perhaps being done under conditions very different than sitting at a gunsmithing bench with a rifle vise.

My purpose was to secure a complete "second rifle" without the need for detailed disassembly or tools required. This satisfies all the requuirements. The choice will be determined by the conditions and this will make the choice so easy.

[sha-ul]

OK, After extensive searching and numerous calls to a few different people this is the result of everyone's awesome input and help.
Savage has agreed that the 110 BA in the .300 Win Mag/,338 Lapua Mag rifle has the same receiver and the only difference is the bolt assembly (bolt face), the barrel, and magazine. Here's what they have agreed to do...

Parts required:

Bolt Assembly for .338 LM $202.
Barrel chambered for .338 Lapua $211.
Muzzle Brake (same for both calibers) $60.
Magazine for .338 LM $113.


They will assemble and test fire the rifle and return all parts to me in a condition to re-assemble it here at my convienence or necessity to either caliber and do it within 2 weeks for a total of $655.00

What a deal. It took quite a bit of conversation to explain they were the same rifle, just different chamber and bolt, but I was able to get what I wanted. Thank you all.




Schweet!!! 8) 8) :D

[efm77]

Ok maybe I'm missing something here. I see your point for the complete bolt assembly but to switch barrels you're still going to need the tools to do it. At least a barrel nut wrench and the proper headspace guages.

[ghostwriter]

Ever see a takedown rifle? With more than one barrel? Same thing.

[Samdweezel05]

in fact the barrels are the same (just a different chamber) and the brake is different having a slightly larger hole for the .038" bigger bullet.


What? So it's the same barrel with a different chamber? Must be a tight fit to get a .338" bullet to push down a .308" hole. Or maby the .308" bullet is a bit lose in the .338" hole, I don't know

Take down rifles with more than one barrel don't need to be headspaced every time you change barrels. The barrels more or less "snap" on and all barrels were headspaced for that one action. When you decide to put your old barrel back on you will need at least a barrel nut wrench and headspace gauges.

[ghostwriter]

Yes, at the least you will need to tighten the barrel nut, but also note, these two different calibers use the same barrel, and muzzle brake. Of course the chamber is different as is the long hole down the middle. LOL

[memilanuk]

Well, let us know how it all works out in the end. To be honest, I'm pleasantly surprised they agreed to do the package deal as I honestly didn't think they would. I know I'm more than half-ways considering looking into getting a .300WM barrel and bolt setup for mine, as .300WM seems to be about the max for the tactical matches around here due to wear-n-tear on the steel targets.

[efm77]

Yes I'm aware of what a take down rifle is but the Savage is not set up that way in original form. I didn't see it clearly in your descriptions that that was what Savage was doing for you. So they are converting your action and barrels to take down form? That's pretty cool. I'd like to see how they do it (if it's similar to what other companies do). Post some pics when you get it back.

[bajabill]

I admit I dont have the slightest idea what a 110ba is, but how does the barrel get installed to the proper position to insure correct and repeatable headspace, for both the new barrel and the original barrel?

[memilanuk]

how does the barrel get installed to the proper position to insure correct and repeatable headspace, for both the new barrel and the original barrel?


Ever heard of headspace gauges?

[bajabill]

how does the barrel get installed to the proper position to insure correct and repeatable headspace, for both the new barrel and the original barrel?


Ever heard of headspace gauges?



thats helpful, yes, I switch barrels on standard 110 actions. Im asking if this setup would/could be different.

[memilanuk]

I'm not getting what you're not getting... use go/no-go gauges for each caliber, just like you would any other barrel swap. Make some witness marks on the receiver/nut/barrel using alternating colors to make sure you're getting approx. the same torque and that everything is lining up i.e. brake timed 'up', etc.

[bajabill]

What I dont understand is does ghostwriter think both barrels will just twist on and off without the need to verify or set headspace. If so, and if correct, HOW??

[Blue Avenger]

one way is to "glue" the nut with locktit or solder.

[ghostwriter]

You're absolutely right there "BlueAvenger". That's one way.

@everyone else: ...Also, think for a minute, this ain't rocket science. Do you realize you put a "headspace gauge" in the chamber every time you load the rifle? A headspace gauge is just a tool to set the barrel the proper distance from the bolt face for the round to easily chamber and not so loose that it moves. Pretty simple actually. In a pinch you could take a spent round and stuff in the chamber just before the barrel hit the proper depth threading it onto the receiver and closing the bolt so the extractor clipped onto it, bottom the barrel and lock the nut. Torque it close enough to be in the ball park and then you're ready to load a live one and fire.

I'll keep you guys in the loop...