New man needs help with firing pin adjustment.

[jim36]

Just put a new bbl on the 110 action. Head spaced with empty round and then checked with a go gage. All going good until I decided to put in a new speed=lock striker spring. Of course, I attemped to adjust the firing pin stop nut.[dumb idea :'(] Now I can't get the gun to fire. Just puts a dent into the cartridge. I adjusted once more for a little more depth on the primer. No luck. Whats next?
Jim

[stevec]

Jim, your firing pin should stick out about 45-50 thsnds when in the fired position.

Steve

[sharpshooter]

Take the speed lock striker spring out, and replace it with the factory spring. There is no benefit from a stronger spring.
While you have the spring off, adjust the firing pin protrusion to .035-.045" using the front nut. Replace the spring and install the rear nut and adjust until the spring is compressed to 2.600".

[jim36]

Thanks . Will give that a try. Can't tell you why I replaced the spring. Just thought it would help. Dumb Decision. I will let you know what happens.
Thanks again
Jim

[BillPa]

A How-To....
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,22691.0.html

Bill

[jim36]

I may be educated beyond my ability. Firing pin at .45 protrusion. Firing pin spring compressed tp 2.602. Put a pencil down the barrel and it sends it down the tube when the trigger is pulled. WILL NOT FIRE ON A PRIMMED EMPTY CARTRIDGE. Rechecked headspace. Every thing looks like it should work. By the way it's a 35 Whelen, if that makes any difference. What's next?
Jim

[jim36]

Thats .045. Not .45 ::) ::)

[stevec]

Just a thought here, I have had it happen before. Are you sure the primers are seated completely?

Steve

[jim36]

Steve I thought about that
,so I pulled the bullets from some factory loads and the same thing took place. I also adjusted the pin out to .055 and got the same results. Still get light primer strikes. I've cleaned it throughly and checked it at least a dozen times. I took the firing pin out of a 3006 rifle, put it in place of the problem pin and got the same results. Even tried two more complete bolts, but headspace would not match so I'm back to square one. It seems to be the same with different pin protrusion adjustments. I appreciate your concern. This is not the first time I've done something stupid. ;D By the way I did put the original spring back in place.
Jim

[BillPa]

Steve I thought about that
,so I pulled the bullets from some factory loads and the same thing took place. I also adjusted the pin out to .055 and got the same results. Still get light primer strikes. I've cleaned it throughly and checked it at least a dozen times. I took the firing pin out of a 3006 rifle, put it in place of the problem pin and got the same results. Even tried two more complete bolts, but headspace would not match so I'm back to square one. It seems to be the same with different pin protrusion adjustments. I appreciate your concern. This is not the first time I've done something stupid. ;D By the way I did put the original spring back in place.
Jim


Light primer strikes are or can be caused by a few things, but 9 times out of ten something is padding the pin fall. A firing pin spring does not instantly accelerate the pin to some velocity, it ramps up. Anything that interferes with it will reduce primer impact energy, that old pesky Energy-weight-velocity thing.

Excessive protrusion can also cause problems. Since you'll never indent a pirmer more than about .020" a longer static ( bench setup) protrusion can lower impact pressures, the pin is stopped short during it ramp up, it in effect shortens the pin fall length. Its why some of us recommend a shorter protrusion in the .030"-.040 range, +/- .020" for the indent depth and .010"-.020" for the brass head clearance ( bump), primer seating depth and etc.

Padding the fall can be caused by the bolt internals, the sear not being cleanly released, its contacting the stock, the trigger over travel too tight and etc. The sear contacting the stock is somewhat common. A simple test, fire a few primed cases ( no powder-bullet!) with the action out of the stock. If they ignite reliably the sear is making contact in the stock somewhere. If they fail to ignite check the sear operation, trigger adjustment and the bolt internals to be sure the firing pin isn't binding. Since you've tried two bolts I'd discount a bolt problem to some degree.

Where to start? I'd try some primed brass with the action out of the stock then go from there.

Bill

[jim36]

Bill I did as you suggested. I determined that the firing pin is not releasing like it should. I stated in an earlier post that the firing pin would kick a pencil from the bore. This no longer happens. It only moves the pencil about a quarter of the way up the bore. There is a bind somewhere or the sear is not set correctly. I now have the protrusion and the spring compressed to where it should be. I'm tired of messing with it tonight. I'll start fresh tomorrow. Thanks for you post. I'm open to any suggestions. I certainly would like to shoot this thing during the upciming deer season.
Jim

[BillPa]

Bill I did as you suggested. I determined that the firing pin is not releasing like it should. I stated in an earlier post that the firing pin would kick a pencil from the bore. This no longer happens. It only moves the pencil about a quarter of the way up the bore. There is a bind somewhere or the sear is not set correctly.
Jim


Was that with the action in or out of the stock? Also, if you've adjusted the trigger over travel try loosening it up a few turns. After the trigger releases the sear it travels along a radius on the trigger. If the OT is set too tight the sear will drag along the radius restricting the sear and padding the pin fall. They are the two most common problems.

Bill

[jim36]

It does the same in the stock or out of the stock. Will adjust overtravel tomorrow. Sick of this tonight.
Jim

[Whelen Man]

Any chance you've got too much headspace with your ammo. It's easy to do. Some factory ammo will do it if your headspace is a little on the long side. Factory dies are notorious for making short 35 Whelen ammo relative to factory headspace. I've had to redo brass before by using a .375 expander button to size up the neck and then adjust the dies down a little at a time with the .35 Whelen button in place until the brass just firmly chambers with a little resistance. First firing then produces brass just fitted to your chamber.