explain timed and trued to me

[hershey]

[/quote]


Try one once and you'll understand. Freds rates are very reasonable and there is no excuse not to have one done.
[/quote]


actually, in my opinion, if i an gonna start w/ a target action and then send it out, it is getting close enough to custom action prices that it makes me think that might be the smarter choice. do not get me wrong i am not claiming that it is not a good thing to do, i want to know what i am giving up in accuracy when sitting next to a guy that has had it all done, or has a custom action. from what i can gather from this post is if my brass is coming out of the gun in good shape, i am not giving up much at all, probably in truth, nothing other that his gun is a little bit user freindly because it is easier to cycle the bolt etc.

i am the type of guy that if i sent my first one out and liked it, i'd have to send them all out, but then i could of just bought a custom gun and still have a bunch of very fine shootin savage rifles.

[durango]

New member, first post. This thread is very interesting--I own 4 savages and am contemplating a couple or 3 more and this barrel swapping is looking better all the time. These questions come to my feeble old mind--since I'm considering a target action to build on--is the target action any more T & T than any other savage action? Or, would a person be any better off ($$$) just buying a Stevens and get a T & T job to start with? You would lose the SS, solid bottem and fancy trigger and port systems--how about the lug? Is it suppose to be any better than 'stock'? For my purposes, I'm not planning any super huge cartridges, mostly just varmint class stuff.
Thanks, Steve

[Blue Avenger]

--since I'm considering a target action to build on--is the target action any more T & T than any other savage action? Or, would a person be any better off ($$$) just buying a Stevens and get a T & T job to start with? You would lose the SS, solid bottem and fancy trigger and port systems--how about the lug? Is it suppose to be any better than 'stock'? For my purposes, I'm not planning any super huge cartridges, mostly just varmint class stuff.
Thanks, Steve
actions and bolts are all the same for material quality. only changes would be ports and you can add one if you want. the solid bottom can be filled with a single shot follower if you want to buy a cheaper action. triggers are different between the std. and target actions. many change the trigger also. Lug is a separate replacement part. always a good idea to change the warped stamped stock part if you have the option.

[Eric in NC]

actually, in my opinion, if i an gonna start w/ a target action and then send it out, it is getting close enough to custom action prices that it makes me think that might be the smarter choice.

Which custom action is that getting close to? I want one!

[efm77]

About the floating bolt head. Can it really move that much? I mean, it seems like there's very little clearance for the firing pin to go through the bolt pin and bolt head. Seems like it couldn't move much without binding the firing pin.

[outlawkyote]

About the floating bolt head. Can it really move that much? I mean, it seems like there's very little clearance for the firing pin to go through the bolt pin and bolt head. Seems like it couldn't move much without binding the firing pin.


Do you load your own ammo?
When loading your ammo do you remove the burs in the flashole? Surely it doesnt make much difference? Do you uniform the primer pockets? Do you weigh each load? Do you check your runnout? Do you turn the necks? Do you make you bullets set exactly equal to each other? Do you weigh your brass? Do you measure each bullet for bearing surface? Do you weigh each bullet?

If you dont, T&Ting an action may not do anything for you.

How much can it be off? Have you seen all the posts on here about people needing Z rings just to get their scope adjusted close enough to hit paper? Ive had one that needed 20moa bases to get the bullet on paper at 100yds. It shot like crap but ever since Fred T&Td the action, its one of my best shooters now.
Having the floating head crooked can cause the firing pin to strike inconsistantly too; obviously causing poor accuracy.

[BillPa]

Having the floating head crooked can cause the firing pin to strike inconsistantly too; obviously causing poor accuracy.


It also eliminates the effect of sear pressure unloading the top locking lug on a tensioned (cocked) bolt or whats known as "bolt slap".

Bill

[efm77]

No I do not hand load so I don't do the things you mentioned. I was just asking how much the bolt head can actually shift is all. And yes I have had to use the Signature Zee rings to get the scope lined up properly. I was merely thinking that if the action is off that much the floating bolt head wouldn't move enough to completely line up with the locking lug recesses so you would have to have the action squared anyway along with the bolt head/face. I'm no expert though so I was asking just so I could learn.

[kkeene]

I find that a T&T'd action is much easier to work the bolt on without disturbing the gun on the rest.

I did notice an accuracy improvement (1" to 3/4" at 200 yards) on one of the two rifles that I sent to Fred at SSS.

I am a fan of SSS action work, especially for a varmint rifle.

In my opinion, on a hunting rifle you will probably not get as much benefit.

Keith

[sharpshooter]

Bolt deflection can be as much as 1.5 degrees and still get complete contact on both lugs. This amounts to about .050" at the rear of the bolt body from the bolt head in any and all directions. However if a receiver was this far off, it would probably suffer from lug shift upon firing. As the bolt is turned down there is a tension caused by the cocking piece pin compressing the spring. If the closing ramps are not square to the remaider of the bore,one lug makes contact before the other, and in effect the first contact point acts as a fulcrum from the tension and the whole bolt head is shifted sliftly askew. It will stay that way until the tension on the firing pin spring is released by firing. At this point once the tension is released the bolt head tends to snap back in the opposite direction, not just back to theoretical center, but past it. This can cause flyers in small to larger degrees.