Pillars for bedding...

[petrey10]

just curious as to which pillars you guys like to use to pillar bed your actions? I found the ones below specifically for savages and didn't know if they were good or not



http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/the-434/Savage-10-fdsh-110-Steel-Pillar/Detail

[tinkerer]

Those will work.

I prefer these, lets me customize my installation.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Stock-Blank-Custom-Bedding-Pillars-/230446921507?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a7b4f723

Larry
Tinkerer

[TOO Builder]

I like these that I get from Brownells

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9899/Product/REMINGTON_700_PILLAR_BEDDING_BLOCKS

[geargrinder]

You guys are all fancy.

Go down to Lowe's, Home Depot, or wherever and get some lamp rod for a couple bucks. They have long pieces and usually a package of shorter pieces that will only need a little trimming to be perfect. Don't forget to notch the rear pillar for the sear.

http://www.wildrice.com/Halloween/Construction/BouncingBucky/Images/Photos/ThreadedLampRod.jpg

[khuff]

I've used the Brwonells pillars (9/16" alum) to pillar actions to stocks.

I've decided to try steel parallel tip sections of driver shafts (.335 outside diameter, X100) instead of the standard pilliars. The tubing is super high quality, ridged and built to endure tremendous forces. I just bought 1/4" grade 8 heavy washers (9/16" OD) to bed the front action tube to, should provide a great landing for the action screw head.

Will see.

[petrey10]

ok well what do you guys use to cut and file down these pillars?

[bassman]

I use galvanized pipe nipples. I think they are 1/8". The inside diameter is just right and they can be cut with a dremel cut-off wheel, then touched up with file or stone attachment on the dremel. The ends are threaded but the body is not. You can cut ridges in the body with the cut off wheel. That gives the devcon something to grab. Just my 2 cents. ;D

[TOO Builder]

I install them full length. Attach them to the action, coat everything with Devcon and push in place. I drill all the holes in the wood so it gives extra area for the bedding to lock into. When everything is set up for at least a day I cut the pillars down below the stock with a 5/8" counterbore so the bolt heads are flush with the surface of the stock.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/Toobuilder/IMG_4086_1.jpg

[bjones2571]

Just to be sure before ordering, will these work for my Stevens .270 LA build. Im using a Heritage classic stock from stockysstocks. Would I be better off buying the steel pillars from stockys? Thanks.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=49099/pid=22892/Product/PILLAR_BEDDING_SLEEVE_W_GROOVES_COMBO

[Delaware_Ken]

toobuilder, where did you find your pillars for the Savage Target Action?

[petrey10]

too builder... may I ask why you drilled the "grabber" holes infront of the recoil lug? I was told on savage action you should only bed behind the recoil lug due to the barrel nut having the ridges in it...


Anybody know of a good video showing ALL the steps to pillar and glass bed at the same time like TOObuilder is doing??

[petrey10]

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22892/Product/PILLAR_BEDDING_SLEEVES

do you use the LONG or SHORT pillars??

[petrey10]

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a24/petrey10/sav-110-la2.jpg

just for clarification... the spots in red are the areas I want the bedding material at?

Any areas you would add bedding material?

[richardsaltonstall]

Fiberglass (G10) tube is also a nice pillar if you are bedding a composite stock. I have also used carbon fiber tube. Aluminum doesnt like to be glued into a carbon fiber part without a dielectric layer to keep the aluminum from corroding. Avoid aluminum bedding blocks or pillars on carbon stocks, cast carbon or high molecular weight fill and epoxy parts work well.

A note on epoxies: Not all are created equal. Most five minute epoxy is not very stable or water proof. Use something with a high deflection temp if you can.

Richard Saltonstall

[geargrinder]

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a24/petrey10/sav-110-la2.jpg

just for clarification... the spots in red are the areas I want the bedding material at?

Any areas you would add bedding material?


Yep, that's where I do it.

[petrey10]

its going to be a laminate stock... do I need the long or short pillars?



Do i just apply the release agent around the mag and then trim/grind the extra off of the stock when its done curing?

[TOO Builder]

Take a look at the action itself. I wrap the barrel nut with around 4-6 layers of electrical tape. this acts as a spacer and when it is removed after the action is removed from the stock there is space between the nut and bedding material.

I use the long Parrish pillars. Those Brownell brand pillars basically look the same however two different lengths. You would have to measure and confirm the length required to see if the short one would in fact be long enough for your application. I just use the long ones, they stick out the bottom of the stock and i just counterbore them down after the bedding has cured.

petrey10- make sure you fill up the recoil lug area with bedding compound also. Put tape on the front and sides of the lug so it contacts the rear only. I will even grind some grooves in the wood just behind the lug so there ends up being a good solid pad of Devcon for the lug to rest against.

geargrinder- I like the lamp rod idea, especially for the very rear pillar. I don't use as large of a diameter for that pillar anyhow.

[petrey10]

http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/the-434/Savage-10-fdsh-110-Steel-Pillar/Detail

i found these pillars too... they are especially for the savage 110 action and may work out pretty slick

TOO can you take my picture and show me where YOU would bed? Thanks

[TOO Builder]

You've got it right in your picture, just make sure you fill up the recoil lug cut out with the bedding material. When you push the barreled action into the stock the bedding material will squeeze out all over. You want it to do that so you know it is filling up all the areas you want it to go.

If the Devcon ends up being farther forward of the barrel nut area than I would like, I just carefully remove it using my Dremel and a round ball grinder. Clean up all the Devcon that squeezes out the sides of the action while it is still soft. I always tape off my stock with blue painters tape.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/Toobuilder/IMG_4087_1.jpg

After I have cleaned it up a bit I will wrap the action in with electrical tape and let it sit for at least 12 hours.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/Toobuilder/IMG_4088_1.jpg

If you are bedding a repeater action you will likely have to clean up some dried epoxy in the mag well area also. I have only bedded one repeater action. I do all my builds on single shot actions. Much easer to bed.

[petrey10]

so any mistakes can be grinded back out?

those pics helped me so much!!! if you have anymore please post.... such as spacing the tang and making sure the barrel is centered....