Have my 110 Hunter barrel cut down from 24" to 16.5" and fluted or just buy a Shaw barrel?

[Pasq]

I have a 110 Hunter in 6.5CM with a 24" Sporter barrel in an MDT Field Stock. Right now, she's a target build with a KDF Muzzle Brake, an MDT Oryx Bipod, and a Viper PST FFP 6-24x50mm. After I take a few PRS classes with her, I'd like to convert her to more of a hunting/scout build. The scope is definitely getting replaced with something much lighter and better for hunting deer and black bear out to max 400 yds. I'd like to have a much lighter and more maneuverable 16.5" threaded barrel. Should I have a gunsmith cut, flute, and re-thread this barrel, or would it be better/cheaper to order a custom Shaw barrel?

[prdatr]

Welcome,

Born in Queens myself but moved away from NY in the 70's. I think you'd be better served with a 20" barrel. That 6.5 is no barn burner to begin with and you could loose up to 200fps , or more.
What bullet are you planning on shooting, 143's? I prefer to keep the scope weight on a hunting rifle in the 16-18oz range. Vortex make a nice clear scope but they won't hold up to being bumped around in the field like a Leupold will.
The 6.5 Creedmoor is a great round especially with the plethora of bullets out there in factory ammo. 400 yards is very doable on deer and bear. As far as cutting down your barrel vs a new one that's just a matter of personal preference and $$. A custom barrel gives you the added benefit of choosing the twist .

[Beowoulf2000]

I agree with prdatr that there is a performance hit chambering 6.5 Creedmoor in a 16.5” barrel. Even so, with the appropriate load, it is capable of humane kills on deer and black bear out to 400 yards. I would prefer a little more terminal energy for a big bear but it’s a subjective choice. But as always, shot placement is key. A PRS competitor should do alright.
Your post asked about what was cheaper/better. Here is the pricing worksheet for custom Shaw barrels:
https://www.shawcustombarrels.com/shop/product/1-lightweight-sporter/6
The cheapest “white” chrome-moly, 16.5”, sporter contour, threaded barrel with strait flutes is $365. “Fancier” fluting and finishing the 4140 steel can drive the price up to $535. You should be able find a local gunsmith to cut/crown, thread and flute your factory barrel and “paint to match” for considerably less. Best way to know is to call for an estimate.
What is better is a ranked choice of what is important to you. Once you complete your PRS course you’ll have a pretty good idea of the precision your factory barreled action is capable. Shortening to 16.5” may negatively affect that precision at 400 yds. Might not. For hunting big game I would guess it would still be plenty precise enough. Accurate enough is on you.
If your looking to shave ounces, custom barrels can be made lighter with ultra-thin contours. How much an ounce or less is worth is up to you. Other than cost, precision, and weight you’ll have to tell us what else would make the barrel better for you.
Editorial: If you decide on a custom barrel, consider 308 Winchester. It has a good reputation for taking less of a velocity hit from shorter barrels.

[Robinhood]

I have a 110 Hunter in 6.5CM with a 24" Sporter barrel

Cut it off and crown it. Sporter profiles don't need flutes in my opinion.

Or sell what you have, or trade /buy what want. I and many others have gone through all of the barrel swapping and stock changing. It is fun for a few times. Now it is buy a custom action and build it for a lifetime. My $.02 since you asked. Good luck.

[Pasq]

Thank you, all. Great input to consider. Much appreciated!

[Fuj']

Cut it to 18" and crown it. You won't lose much more then 100 ft/sec. I did this on a
260 Remington. If your loading, work with faster powders. My rifle liked 130 gr bullets
and IMR-4064. I would not have used it for black bear though.

[charlie b]

I'd also not rely on it for bear at range unless you are sure of your shot placement, ie, heart, head, etc. Also have to carefully select bullet.

I consider 18" minimum for most rifle cartridges. Personally, if I wanted shorter I'd hunt with a handgun or Contender pistol. I used a .357mag 4" revolver and 10" Contender when I lived in NY. Most shots were less than 100yd and standing supported (tree trunk).

I never considered rifle weight a big deal when hunting. Even carried the Garand out here in the mountains when hunting elk. If the weight bothered me I'd go on a diet and lose more pounds than one or two off the rifle :) Cheaper as well.

[big honkin jeep]

Personally I'd just start a new build. Find a used 10/11 or 110 sporter and cut it down to 16". I'd make it a .308Win. For the puropses you describe.
I did one several years ago and took an old flatback model 11 in .243, bought a synthetic DBM takeoff stock and a takeoff .308 sporter barrel from the classifieds here. I tuned the trigger with a lighter spring, added a home made bolt lift kit cut the stock down to 12" LOP and bedded it reshaped the factory recoil pad cut the barrel down to 16" and had it threaded and braked. Also added a Carstans style comb riser made from kydex with bolts and knobs from the hardware store. Then I gave the whole thing a khaki and olive drab sponge camo paint job with a clear dull coat.
The resulting super handy little carbine is one of my favorites.well when I can pry it away from the grandkids nieces and nephews.
Of course you could always take the economy option. Check the classifieds and find a takeoff sporter in the caliber of your choice and cut it down.
As far as velocity loss, nothing you shoot with it will know the difference to any reasonable hunting range.
Good Luck