Bolt question for Savage 110

[HankG]

How can I uncock the piece of the bolt in the picture below? I cocked it while the bolt was out of the rifle and it obviously won't go back in until I uncock it.



http://i54.tinypic.com/r6wv3m.jpg

[Mrgunslinger]

Loosen the screw behind the bolt handle,move the button back into the right position then retighten the bolt that holds on the bolt handle.

[HankG]

Thanks for the quick response! Now is it normal for this screw to be extremely tight? Any tips on loosening it up without a vice?

[Darth1]

OK ... I just (three days ago) dealt with this same issue. First off ... the bolt IS right hand threaded and I believe they all are. One person suggested that I should have warmed up the bolt because there was "thread locker compound" on the threads, perhaps he is right and it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do so, although I found none on mine. What I ended up doing was placing the bolt on a piece of plywood on the floor. Then placing the allen wrench (GOING IN THE PROPER DIRECTION) in the bolt at about a 30 degree angle, placing my feet strategically on the bolt, and bouncing on the allen wrench with most of my weight. This was extremely wrong and foreign to me because of my machinist/mechanic background. Mine was so tight (I guess) that it blew me away, but it did come loose and there was no damage at all. I guess a gorilla tightened mine.

I found this procedure after searching several forums ... I didn't like it ... but it worked FOR ME. Hopefully I'll never have to do that again ... but I do own another Savage in 204 Ruger and may someday want to work on that bolt. Obviously ... I didn't tighten it up near as tight ... just good and snug.

[Darth1]

BTW ...your PIC shows your bolt in the FIRED position ... you need to get back to the COCKED position in order to re-insert the bolt. Just being "persnickety".

What I do is re-install the bolt just a few threads deep with the firing pin in the FIRED position because you don't have to compress the spring. Then I move it to the COCKED position by placing the button against my workbench and pushing it to the COCKED position. After a few times of doing this, you should become a pro at it (I have) and THEN running the bolt all the way in.

Hope all this helps ya!

[earl39]

First off ... the bolt IS right hand threaded and I believe they all are. One person suggested that I should have warmed up the bolt because there was "thread locker compound" on the threads, perhaps he is right and it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do so, although I found none on mine. What I ended up doing was placing the bolt on a piece of plywood on the floor. Then placing the allen wrench (GOING IN THE PROPER DIRECTION) in the bolt at about a 30 degree angle, placing my feet strategically on the bolt, and bouncing on the allen wrench with most of my weight.

thats how you do it for the factory tight ones once you get it loose just tighten it up tight not gorilla tight there is no locking compound on the threads but a touch of never size or light grease won't hurt and will make it a little easier to loosen the nut if you ever need to again.

Gary

[Nefarioud]

BTW ...your PIC shows your bolt in the FIRED position ... you need to get back to the COCKED position in order to re-insert the bolt. Just being "persnickety".

What I do is re-install the bolt just a few threads deep with the firing pin in the FIRED position because you don't have to compress the spring. Then I move it to the COCKED position by placing the button against my workbench and pushing it to the COCKED position. After a few times of doing this, you should become a pro at it (I have) and THEN running the bolt all the way in.

Hope all this helps ya!


+ 1, this is the simplest "no tools required" approach. I do this often.

[hailstone]

Loosing the bolt and cocking is one approach but there are others. If you have a cordless drill that has impact driver function then use it with 1/4" hex bit to loosen the bolt. This can be accomplished holding the bolt in one hand and drill/impact driver in the other. Vise could be used but its not necessary. A chordless drill will not work. It must have the impact driver function for this method too work.

I just place the cocking piece against workbench edge pushing down at the angle of the ramp until it locks in the cocked position. This is the simplest method and can be done virtually anywhere without tools.

[HankG]

BTW ...your PIC shows your bolt in the FIRED position ... you need to get back to the COCKED position in order to re-insert the bolt. Just being "persnickety".

What I do is re-install the bolt just a few threads deep with the firing pin in the FIRED position because you don't have to compress the spring. Then I move it to the COCKED position by placing the button against my workbench and pushing it to the COCKED position. After a few times of doing this, you should become a pro at it (I have) and THEN running the bolt all the way in.

Hope all this helps ya!


Thank thank you thank you! I did all I could to loosen that hex screw and could not get it to budge. I tried what you suggested and it worked! Seriously, thanks a ton for the great advice.

[GUNFANATIC]

Nonsense! ::) It's much more simple than that. Just use the edge of a bench, bolt head pointing down, catch that little button on the edge and while pushing the bolt downward, turn it and it'll cock very easily.

[HankG]

Nonsense! ::) It's much more simple than that. Just use the edge of a bench, bolt head pointing down, catch that little button on the edge and while pushing the bolt downward, turn it and it'll cock very easily.


That is actually what I did as I figured there was no benefit to putting the bolt in the rifle first. I put a towel on the kitchen counter and put a little weight on the button. It was easy enough to cock again, so I did it a few more times to make sure I remembered this method down the road.