Gun shack fluted bolt body

[TommyD11730]

Hey Guys
Anyone know where The Gun Shack sources their fluted bolt body's? They are advertised as Savage brand.
Just curious that's all.

[pdog06]

They are factory Savage bolt body’s, like the ones on the Ultralight and LWH models.

[TommyD11730]

Thanks for the education.

[lskok]

Hey Guys
Anyone know where The Gun Shack sources their fluted bolt body's? They are advertised as Savage brand.
Just curious that's all.
The spiral ones we currently sell come directly from Savage. I'm working on getting some other pattern options, but those will be fluted by a gunsmith that we are working with.

[TommyD11730]

The spiral ones we currently sell come directly from Savage. I'm working on getting some other pattern options, but those will be fluted by a gunsmith that we are working with.
Thanks. I just installed one of your bolts. I like it. I have a well used action so maybe that has something to do with it.

[J.Baker]

Just an FYI for when buying an OEM (Savage) replacement bolt body of any type. Always measure the length of the new one compared to your original when possible, and more importantly always recheck and verify the headspace when changing bolt assembly components (bolt body, bolt head, front baffle).

The way Savage does their QC on bolt bodies is they assemble them into completed bolt assemblies and then pair them up with an action. If a bolt assembly doesn't work in a particular action it is set aside and the tech grabs another one. Then they try that passed over assembly in the next action, and the process repeats. That's the QC for length which is pretty much non-existent.

I know Fred has received numerous bolt bodies over the years that were well outside of spec on the overall length - both short and long. We've also seen some where the "ears" on the rear to align the bolt handle were cut too shallow resulting in primary extraction issues.

[LDSILLS]

Just an FYI for when buying an OEM (Savage) replacement bolt body of any type. Always measure the length of the new one compared to your original when possible, and more importantly always recheck and verify the headspace when changing bolt assembly components (bolt body, bolt head, front baffle).

The way Savage does their QC on bolt bodies is they assemble them into completed bolt assemblies and then pair them up with an action. If a bolt assembly doesn't work in a particular action it is set aside and the tech grabs another one. Then they try that passed over assembly in the next action, and the process repeats. That's the QC for length which is pretty much non-existent.

I know Fred has received numerous bolt bodies over the years that were well outside of spec on the overall length - both short and long. We've also seen some where the "ears" on the rear to align the bolt handle were cut too shallow resulting in primary extraction issues.

A tad off subject but yet it has the term BOLT in it. Hahahaha Any advice on PTG bolt bodies or complete bolt conversion? (seen below)

https://pacifictoolandgauge.com/14088-thickbox_default/1-pc-savage-bolt-conversion.jpg

[TommyD11730]

Headspace being the measurement between the bolt face and your chamber..
How would exchanging your bolt body alone change that measurement?

[Rocketvapor]

I know this thread is about the fluted bolt bodies which are sure pretty, but GunShack's $40 body is a bargain for setting up a few different springs for testing at the range.
10573

[pdog06]

Headspace being the measurement between the bolt face and your chamber..
How would exchanging your bolt body alone change that measurement?

If the new bolt body is longer it pushes the bolt face forward, so the headspace will be tighter. If it’s shorter the headspace will be greater. Even if you only change the bolt head, you should still double check headspace with go/no go gauges. Same with taking a complete bolt assembly from one action and using it in another.

[lskok]

If the new bolt body is longer it pushes the bolt face forward, so the headspace will be tighter. If it’s shorter the headspace will be greater. Even if you only change the bolt head, you should still double check headspace with go/no go gauges. Same with taking a complete bolt assembly from one action and using it in another.
I thought if you were using the same bolt head, variations of the bolt body wouldn't matter. Since the bolt head is floating and locks in place with the lugs, won't the headspace remain the same as long as you don't change the bolt head?

[TommyD11730]

I thought if you were using the same bolt head, variations of the bolt body wouldn't matter. Since the bolt head is floating and locks in place with the lugs, won't the headspace remain the same as long as you don't change the bolt head?
That's what I had been "taught " as well.

[pdog06]

That’s definitely the way it should be, but with headspace we’re talking only thousandths of an inch. That’s why it simply needs rechecked. And it could be just fine. FWIW, I bought one of these bolt bodies from you(Gunshack) and there was no difference between it and my factory one.

[J.Baker]

A tad off subject but yet it has the term BOLT in it. Hahahaha Any advice on PTG bolt bodies or complete bolt conversion? (seen below)

https://pacifictoolandgauge.com/14088-thickbox_default/1-pc-savage-bolt-conversion.jpg

Well....the PT&G bolt parts are a bit of a red headed step child for many of us here. lol

The big problem here is some folks who never bothered to understand the Savage platform decided to branch out from their long established Remington 700 market and in doing so tried to apply Remington logic to the Savage platform and it just doesn't work. They want to try and eliminate the slop in the Savage bolt, which as Fred recently explained in another thread is required to allow the floating bolt head to function as it's designed to.

The other problem many have found with the PT&G parts is they often won't fit/function in their actions. Sometimes bolt bodies are too large to fit because there's a slight bow to the action from the heat-treating process and the new bolt body allows for minimal clearance as designed. In other cases some have had various issues with their PT&G bolt heads. Dave Kiff is a very good machinist and has no problem hitting the numbers, but when you haven't done the homework to make sure you have the correct numbers that will fit in 60+ years of mass production receivers, well - you can run into fitment issues.

For that reason I always recommend people stick with Savage OEM bolt components whenever possible unless you're willing and able to deal with some fitment issues that may require some machining work to make them functional in your particular action.