First time Savage Build, questions and progress

[Fuj']

Other than setting headspace with the barrel, will there be a difference when changing just bolt heads from 6.8 to 223?

Changing bolt heads, you should check headspace. There is no guarantee that lug thickness and bolt face
depths are the same on each.

[Rocketvapor]

Once I have both bolts (6.8 and .223) I will check for head space variance.
Just like AR bolts, measuring lug and face. I have been lucky there as I have no more than 0.001" difference (lug and face) over several bolts for the 22 Nosgar (6.8/224V) and my 22 Nosler (.223 bolt).
Will start with the .243 barrel with the .308 bolthead for a month or two and change out when the Shilen 22N barrel gets here.
I don't expect to be changing daily :)

Just received my new AR barrel from X-Caliber.
Won't have time to assemble and get to the range before the next match so it's the old barrel for now.
Will borescope, pin, measure extension and mount in a BCA side charge upper.
Already looks like I will have to do my normal spray on shim thermal fit with the BCA upper (slips most of the way in).

[Rocketvapor]

Went to the Bogalusa range yesterday as a final practice session before the match Saturday.
I shot 25 rounds and stayed within 2MOA @ 600.
Have the new barrel in hand but no time to swap before match so it's one more time with the shot out barrel.

Also picked up Flo's Savage receiver from Jake.
Sent off dummies for the Shilen barrel.
Hoping for a good showing with her AR for the next couple of matches while we wait on barrel/stock for her bolt gun.
She shot at 600yds, adjusted scope, and went too far. https://www.sksboards.com/smf/Smileys/default/BangHead.gif
Up 3 clicks to 3.5 mils. Groups were good though.


Nothing that would be called fliers this time out.
9821
Was cooler and velocities were about 12-15fps lower @ 600yds than a hot day.
Didn't compare environments in the computer.
She will likely need to adj with sighters Saturday.

[charlie b]

That's pretty darn good :)

[Rocketvapor]

Well, she had some issues but still had a couple OK strings.
Still a ways to go for Master :(
If we had a stock I could put together a .243 just to play with :)
Bought a RB SAV-2 trigger but will wait until she has some time with the Accutrigger.

I have shot the last rounds through my old AR barrel. Going to measure, scope and assemble another upper with the NEW barrel.
I quit early as I didn't want to shoot out a sensor. Just kept getting worse and worse.
Would never have thought a barrel could go so far down. Real close to 3500 rounds.
This thing is worse than my Mosin 91/30.
9827

[Dave Hoback]

What brand & material is that AR barrel?

[Rocketvapor]

X-Caliber, SS, 28" bull, 1:7, 5R, No-Gas port.
Accuracy started dropping off before 3000 rounds and I ordered a replacement.
Same as, except with a port this time (same as the wife's barrel with about 750 or so rounds).

Another question on the Savage receiver.
Accutrigger has about 0.015" space between trigger and holder.
What would be desired?
Haven't pulled the pin but also seems to have a couple thou of slop pin to hole.
I can make shims (or buy), and maybe even a pin that fits a little tighter.

[Dave Hoback]

Like this? Actually, this is the Trigger Pin through the bracket that holds the assembly to the Action, but a pin for the trigger could also be made.
https://i.ibb.co/Fw8WztY/4-BD5-BECE-537-D-4-E23-A56-A-E3458-DEB2-A89.jpg (https://ibb.co/vPLBk8d)

Or these? The shims I machine from Titanium. I’ve been making these for years & use them in all the trigger jobs I do for members here. I’ve also sent a few members just the shims. Really the trigger to bracket pin isn’t even needed. You’ll find the shims really tighten things up & eliminate ALL side play.
https://i.ibb.co/4RvbXZL/D69-C236-F-4-E7-F-448-E-B11-A-6-A64-F7-BAF18-C.jpg (https://ibb.co/TMjQ7BG)

I would be happy to send you a couple shims if you’d like.

[Rocketvapor]

I would gladly PP F&F something reasonable for a couple shims.
PM what you think would cover them and an address to give you something for your trouble.

I noticed the upper pin to the action must be retained by the stock (which we don't have yet).
Don't want to get too deep into this trigger but want Flo to shoot it some before I change out to the Rifle Basic.
That way she can decide which one she likes best.

Spending time today with a pin set and mics measuring the new AR barrel.
Borescope looks pretty good but might feather the gas port just a tad with a pointed diamond burr.
Then just a little bore polish.
9828 9830 9829
No patch snags.

[Dave Hoback]

Yeah, the retention pins are different between the 110 & Axis. But like I said, from my experience, the shims pretty much eliminate all side play. I don’t take money for this stuff. Doing Trigger jobs, making small parts to give out; I do these & also make the older style bar springs for the 2 & 3-screw triggers of the 110. It’s a pleasure just sitting to help out.

Just message your address and I’ll drop some shims in the mail.:tea:

[Rocketvapor]

You be da man Dave.
Just playing around, bored embracing the wait :)
Checked against 2 500gr weights,
then checked trigger pull at the light end.
Doesn't seem to drop when bumped or slammed home.
9832
9833
Indicated force not corrected for local gravity or buoyancy, but close.

[Dave Hoback]

If it’ll hold like that, run it! Great thing is it’s an Accutrigger so it’s 100% regardless of tripping. (Thing I love about Safe Action triggers!)

[Rocketvapor]

Looks like I might have to dremel off the front of the scope rail to get more bite with the wrench.
Cut, file, smooth, Aluminum Black. Won't do it until the stock comes in and we see where the rings/mount will be.
I don't see needing the front most notch.
Maybe just 1/8" would be enough?
Thoughts??
9834

[charlie b]

I had to cut off the front of mine to clear the scope bell. I tend to set my scopes back a bit.

PS if it doesn't interfere with the scope don't worry about it. If you need to use the barrel nut the scope mount has to come off anyway (using an action vise).

[Dave Hoback]

Looks like I might have to dremel off the front of the scope rail to get more bite with the wrench.
Cut, file, smooth, Aluminum Black. Won't do it until the stock comes in and we see where the rings/mount will be.
I don't see needing the front most notch.
Maybe just 1/8" would be enough?
Thoughts??

No problem doing that. Did the same as my Chassis uses tube style forearm. Not all Scope Rails have that extended in the front either. I only had to mill off the one Picatinny “bar & groove” from the front. Then I sanded & just used Birchwood Casey “Aluma-Black”. Works great on small black touch up spots on Aluminum. Much like Cold Bluing. I do my own Cerakote for whole parts. Good luck!
https://i.ibb.co/ZJMGQkH/7-E283711-D093-45-CD-AA3-E-DE92844-A6318.png (https://ibb.co/GJ5nZbs)

[Rocketvapor]

I use The Aluminum Black to keep my AR receivers pretty :)

Ebay'd some ball bearings, 3.5mm to replace the one under the extractor.
Oops, already had one in there. Wasn't 1/8".

[Rocketvapor]

Ground back the end of rail just enough to get full bite with the Nut Wench.
9840

[Dave Hoback]

Nicely done.

[Rocketvapor]

Dumb Question :)
For a model 10 SA RH, New one piece firing pin, single feed with a sled'
Can a Left handed bolt head be used 180 out (extractor on the right) on a Right receiver,right port,
WITHOUT Ejector?

Guess I could take it down, AGAIN, and flip the right handed one around.
If that fit OK then the left to right ought to work.
Just lazy.

Found enough posts to support using the left head on a right bolt, single shot.

[Rocketvapor]

Finally made it out to the mail box and installed Dave's titanium shims.
Greased and slipped in. 0.008" X 2 took out slop with no dragging.
THANK YOU DAVE

I'd take a picture of the installation, but they don't show.