Cheek riser fastener terminology

[MS50]

I have a 1" cheek riser on order from Choate for the tactical stock. My strap-on riser is not working for me for various reasons. I'm looking for a threaded fastener that will allow removal and replacement of the riser for cleaning. What is the terminology for what I'm looking for to accomplish this? Point me in the right direction. My searches came up with fasteners like those in the attached link. Thanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Wensilon-200Pcs-Threaded-Inserts-Furniture/dp/B0BVF7DQB8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Threaded+Inserts&qid=1687259718&s=industrial&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

[charlie b]

That's what I used on mine.

I approached a bit different. I cut the stock (Model 12) kinda like the Boyd's AT-one.

https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/images/default-source/at-one/atone.jpg?sfvrsn=4b91d96f_2

[MS50]

The Choate tactical is plastic. Cutting it is above my skill level. The link below is the part that I ordered. I have a Kydex wrap-over adjustable from a previous stock. I want to avoid drilling the stock. Not to mention, the large adjustment knobs annoyed me. Thanks for your input though.

https://www.riflestock.com/store/product/tall-cheek-piece/

[charlie b]

I do understand the problem. I tried other ways, including the lace on leather cheekpieces and I also tried modifying the replaceable plastic cheekpieces from Choate and Magpul like the one you posted. I shaped them and then used some velcro to secure them None really worked the way I wanted. I also don't like the big knobs so I use set screws that tighten down below the lever of the threaded insert on my setup.

You could use a Kydex cheekpiece and apply velcro on both sides to position and attach?

[MS50]

Worthy considerations. It occurred to me that the threaded inserts are screwed in and not pressed in. I plan to try to find samples locally to see what I can come up with. I've used the neoprene sleeves with foam inserts on both wood and plastic stocks. They work well on the wood stock, not well on the plastic. Shooting prone, the foam inserts slide off the top of the buttstock, despite a tight sleeve. Thanks for the feedback.

[charlie b]

YW. The threaded inserts are found at any hardware store.

[Dave Hoback]

I’m cheering you on to do the threaded inserts. You think it’s above you, but honestly brother… it’s easier than you think. I would be happy to walk you through it. Tell you exactly what you need & how to get it done successfully. Those inserts in 1/4-20 will work perfect! Here are some steel which cost a bit less. https://www.amazon.com/SG-TZH-Threaded-Furniture-Spanner-Blue/dp/B08QCTGMWX/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.6fd80408-71b6-44da-b059-082bba9089d3%3Aamzn1.sym.6fd80408-71b6-44da-b059-082bba9089d3&crid=217BK7CM96GSG&cv_ct_cx=Threaded%2BInserts%2B1%2F4-20&keywords=Threaded%2BInserts%2B1%2F4-20&pd_rd_i=B08QCTGMWX&pd_rd_r=98a4bb9b-11ef-43ea-b2e1-33ebef8ab3d3&pd_rd_w=Romuc&pd_rd_wg=HChhR&pf_rd_p=6fd80408-71b6-44da-b059-082bba9089d3&pf_rd_r=XGNV6WRVBX1EM1SZA3N1&qid=1687317511&s=industrial&sprefix=threaded%2Binserts%2B1%2F4-20%2Cindustrial%2C79&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th= (https://www.amazon.com/SG-TZH-Threaded-Furniture-Spanner-Blue/dp/B08QCTGMWX/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.6fd80408-71b6-44da-b059-082bba9089d3%3Aamzn1.sym.6fd80408-71b6-44da-b059-082bba9089d3&crid=217BK7CM96GSG&cv_ct_cx=Threaded%2BInserts%2B1%2F4-20&keywords=Threaded%2BInserts%2B1%2F4-20&pd_rd_i=B08QCTGMWX&pd_rd_r=98a4bb9b-11ef-43ea-b2e1-33ebef8ab3d3&pd_rd_w=Romuc&pd_rd_wg=HChhR&pf_rd_p=6fd80408-71b6-44da-b059-082bba9089d3&pf_rd_r=XGNV6WRVBX1EM1SZA3N1&qid=1687317511&s=industrial&sprefix=threaded%2Binserts%2B1%2F4-20%2Cindustrial%2C79&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1)

And here are the press in style 1/4-20 in Stainless.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVF8Z3HD/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=51d35ab97615e8fb250d12d023779061&content-id=amzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a%3Aamzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a&hsa_cr_id=0&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=ddb9e264-d8b4-4436-b72a-0bec5bdd133a&pd_rd_w=9wR9i&pd_rd_wg=4HLtv&qid=1687317511&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_title&sr=1-1-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1

[Steeltrap]

I wasn't a fan of the large "grab knobs" either. I went with something like this: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1024069441?pid=304164

[Txhillbilly]

The Choate riser just uses a wood type screw that attaches it to the top of your stock. You can remove it with a Phillips screw driver.

[MS50]

The Choate riser just uses a wood type screw that attaches it to the top of your stock. You can remove it with a Phillips screw driver.

I clean my rifle after shooting it regardless of how many shots were fired. I'll take the riser off each time to make room for the bore guide and rod. Sooner or later the plastic will get mushy and won't hold. I also want to replace the wood screw with a larger head fastener, maybe something with a hex head. I may be overthinking this issue. However, if anybody can strip screw heads or threads, it's me.

[charlie b]

LOL, me too. That's why I love the threaded inserts and Tnuts.

The 'press in' nuts Dave showed are one of those cool ones. They are Rivnuts, made for thin metal use. I've used a lot of them where I need an access panel in sheet metal, or to secure things to thin metal structures. I guess you could press them into something and secure with epoxy or CA.

Another trick I've used is threaded lamp rod. 'Thread' it into a wood or plastic and secure with epoxy/CA. Use as is like a bushing (or stock pillar) or thread it and use like an insert.

Last is something like JB Weld. Drill the hole a bit large and fill with JB. Then drill and tap.

[Txhillbilly]

I clean my rifle after shooting it regardless of how many shots were fired. I'll take the riser off each time to make room for the bore guide and rod. Sooner or later the plastic will get mushy and won't hold. I also want to replace the wood screw with a larger head fastener, maybe something with a hex head. I may be overthinking this issue. However, if anybody can strip screw heads or threads, it's me.

I've got 4 Choate Tactical stocks that I have the cheek riser's on, and have never had any issues using the single mounting screw that it uses. It uses a common type wood screw, so if you mess up the Phillips head, just replace it. Been taking mine off / on for over 20+ years!
You are overthinking it!

[Dave Hoback]

Tell you what would be cool… cut a section of the Choate Tactical stock, drill & install one of those inserts and a hole for a guide rod, like the Boyd’s At-One stock has. Be a fun little project.

[charlie b]

That's what I did with my Model 12 stock. Next time I get it out I'll take a pic.

[Dave Hoback]

That's what I did with my Model 12 stock. Next time I get it out I'll take a pic.

Defiantly Charlie! Please do.. I always love seeing other’s custom work. And that’s exactly the kind of projects we need to be showing here for others to inspire others looking to do likewise.

[dusterdave]

A piece or two of an old yoga mat wrapped with the horse tape from the farm supply ( they have it in camo and colors) zero damage to a stock---excellent way to get one just right adjust thickness by layering the mat--I use two pieces of the thin type yoga mat--the leftover piece makes perfect bench cover or gun smith work surface

[Hdskip]

96219622 I have done many of these in shotgun stocks. some had commercial hardware purchased and some I made the hardware.
96239625

[charlie b]

Mine was not as good as those. :)

https://i.ibb.co/XV3fgG9/20230630-162615.jpg (https://ibb.co/XV3fgG9)
https://i.ibb.co/fVWDLNc/20230630-162606.jpg (https://ibb.co/fVWDLNc)
https://i.ibb.co/R3pwRYM/20230630-162456.jpg (https://ibb.co/R3pwRYM)
https://i.ibb.co/MCfP0nF/20230630-162548.jpg (https://ibb.co/MCfP0nF)

The important part is the holes MUST be parallel. They can be off center a little or 'cocked' forward or back a little as long as they are parallel. I set up a jig on the drill press to make sure of that. I drilled the holes first as I was going to be covering the cut piece with some thin leather so the holes would be covered. Also, that way I knew the holes in the cheek and the stock lined up perfectly. I had some 1/2" steel rod so I used that as the posts. Anything sturdy will work. My backup was some brass rod. After drilling comes the hard part. The front and rear cuts are easy. I used a coping saw to start the long bottom cut. As you can tell I did not do a great job with it. Then just a matter to epoxy the 'posts' to the cheekpiece and do the brass inserts for adjustment. I used set screws rather than have knobs sticking out.

[Hdskip]

I like the covering.

[charlie b]

I do as well. It feels a bit better on the cheek. I've thought about cutting my Boyd's stock on the Axis the same way, but, have been a bit lazy about it (if I can call 4 years being lazy) :)

The good thing is it hides all the edge 'dings' made by the hand saws :)