For the DIY’rs among us. Drill Bits

[Dave Hoback]

For anyone who hasn’t mastered sharpening drill bits, I came across this method years ago and it became my “Go To”. What a joy to have super sharp bits all the time. Also, just a recommendation, but if you haven’t switched to M42 Cobalt bits… Do It! They are so worth the couple extra bucks. Especially when able to keep them in BETTER than new sharpness with this technique. I also purchase Tungsten bits for specialty jobs. (Drilling heat treated steel & such.) However, my M42’s will drill surfaces that standard HSS can only dream. Careful when choosing “Cobalt” bits. The M42 is all I get anymore, with 8% Cobalt. However, listed under Cobalt are also the M35 bits, using just 5% Cobalt. 3% difference may not seem much.. trust me, it’s Night & Day difference. One other trick. Stay away from buying Drill bit “sets”. Obviously I know most everyone likely has that drill bit set ya purchased when young. The 102 piece “Super” set of something, yeah? Most of the bits under 5/32” are broken or bent, several missing & they show rust, right? That’s ok, I did the same. Good to have beater drill bite. Just buy what’s needed when it’s needed. I buy bits as I need them for projects. I can typically find the size I need, be it SAE, Metric, Letter or Wire size, in multi packs. 2-6 for larger bits & up to 12 for the smaller sizes. I typically don’t sharpen bits under 1/8”/3mm.

Here’s the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qze0GyBxBRY

[Robinhood]

Great topic Dave. I believe that is called a chisel point grind. It really reduces the amount of pressure required to cut. I use drills up to 2.5 inches and it makes a difference. And you are spot on about the cobalt. Next best thing to carbide.

[Blue Avenger]

LOL Have one of them master sets! Works awesome! But then all I use it for is cleaning carburetor jets or feeler gauges. M42 Carbide is all I use for metal work. Life is is frustrating enough at times. Wasting it on cheap dull drill bits has never given me a sense of accomplishment!

[Dave Hoback]

Chisel grind, eh? Never knew what it was called.. cool. It makes for one mean cutting bit, that’s no lie! I don’t think it’s boasting to say I freehand a hell of a nice grind! Being only having the one hand & all. It took me some time to relearn the movement minus a hand..ya know? But that was 2014. I’ve honed the skill since & am quite proud of what I can do. I use my belt grinder, not a bench grinder. Only thing I do is draw a line to follow on the table rest at 135 degree.


As for bits, I always find great deals on bits. Most of the bits I get are made by Drill America. I also have several from Topline. And I’ll admit, I have a few Solid Tungsten bits from Uxcell, which is a Chinese company. But I’ve found their Tungsten bits to be very good quality, and the best price by far. For instance, I recently needed a 2.5mm and found a Uxcell 2-pack of Solid Tungsten bits for $7.99. I get that brand whenever I just need need a hole drilled in super hard material like heat treated steel above 55HRC, or Titanium.

[J.Baker]

Yep, chisel grind. A lot of bench grinders have a 30* channel or slot built into the rest on one side just for this purpose - even the cheap Harbor Fright units.

9572

[Dave Hoback]

I don’t like using a channel. When I started doing it I did clamp a block at angle to act as a guide. But I soon found it better to slide the bit side to side; much like in the video. It’s more important for me as I’m using 2x72 grinding belts. Grinding in one spot wears the belt unevenly. And the sliding motion was already a habit for me with knife blade bevel grinding.

Edit: misunderstood

[Blades]

4 facet grind nexttrick is to split the point

[Dave Hoback]

I never do split point. They are good for people in a hurry, sure. But when drilling where it matters, I always center punch and pre-drill with a very small bit, 1/16” or similar first. I’m in no rush.

What I truly love is this method makes for a better performing bit than brand new! It’s funny.. I think back when I was an Auto Tech; all the bits I went through not knowing how to properly sharpen. LOL! And back then, yeah, I likely would have Split Point as well to save work time.