Accustock Accuracy Screw tightening

[sliderspal]

So a first generation Accustock has three mounting bolts and a second generation Accustock has two mounting bolts. Is this correct?

[thomae]

So a first generation Accustock has three mounting bolts and a second generation Accustock has two mounting bolts. Is this correct?


Yes, although I have not heard the "generation" nomenclature before.

[kpb]

I have a question about the tightening of the screws on the accustock.

The instructions refer to the "forward action screw, middle action screw, rear action screw". My question is, is the forward action screw the same thing as the wedge screw?

Thanks,
Kenny

[thomae]

Yup.

Merry Christmas!

[5Wire]

Yup.

Merry Christmas!
Except on the wedgeless Accustock.

[Red Monkey]

I have a first gen. stock M-10 PC with the action wedge. Can I take the 'wedge' out and still get the accuracy I'm getting now? Or will the accuracy 'go south' without the wedge?

[SniperGoat]

My instructions do not have a torque spec for the non-wedge accustock.

[dnsmith]

any of ya'll have this problem?

I've got two model 16's, one in 250 sav and one in 300 sav. both of them showed up with the accutrigger set at around 5 lbs. so the stock came off of both of them to adjust it down where its supposed to be in the 1st place >:(. when you take the action off the stock, the little wedge thingy pops out and you have no idea what to do with it until you find this sticky thread in the savage forum.

so then I put the gun back together according to these instructions (I've got the torque wrench). 1. seat recoil lug screw to 10 lbs/in, back off 1/2 turn, 2. magazine screw 10 lbs/in, 3. rear action screw 10 lbs/in, etc, until all are up to 40-45 lbs. this is all done with butt of the gun on the ground so that recoil lug on action rests against accustock bedding, and the wedge can tighten 'er in there.

and here's what the tang looks like, no matter how many times I try:

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/n8dawg6/16.jpg

raised up out of the stock with a gap. here's what my model 10 PC, which I have never removed from the stock because they adjusted the trigger right from the factory >:(, looks like:

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/n8dawg6/PC.jpg

tang is flush. no gap.

maybe I'm making a mountain out of a molehill, but it seems like I cant get the dang thing back together the way they had it from the factory in the 1st place. anyone else experience a similar issue?

[thomae]

The general consensus here seems to be that the tang should be free floated. So your condition does not seem (IMHO) to be a bad thing.
Did you take any pictures of the 16s before you removed the stock? If the Model 10 PC has the tang touching the stock, I would relieve the stock under the tang so that it is free-floating.

[dnsmith]

did not, thomae, but now that you mention it, I suppose it is a better idea in theory for it to be bedded on the recoil lug and not have strain on the rear of the action. I'm reasonably sure, though, that the tang was sitting more flush than that before I disassembled the rifle.

no real way to compare before/after either, since I cant get either gun back to the "before" condition. Have not yet shot the .300 savage, but I wonder about the .250. Have quite a few rounds downrange with it (I would say in the 200-250 range). It seems to do 2 shots together, and then the next an inch or more off. it's accuracy is not bad, it seems to keep everything in a 2" group on 5 shot strings, but I just wonder if it's not bedded correctly.

[Forest Protector]

Hi all together!

I recently purchased a Model 10 PH (Accustock without the wedge) and faced exactly the same problem as dnsmith did. Prior to disassembling the gun for setting the trigger the tang was absolutely snug to its base on the stock without any pressure (no wear marks or scrates on the stock's paint underneeth it). When I laid the action and the barrel back into the stock I could tilt it forth and back slightly. After tightening down the screws as described the tang sticks out one millimeter opening that small gap. The weapon performs flawlessly and precisely. Nevertheless it is not as it should be and the system is now certainly under pressure. Of course I inspected the stock carefully but couldn't find anything deformed, scratched, out of shape or otherwise indicating a damage.

I found two or three entries with similar problems but none of them offered a proper solution or answer. Can anybody shed a little light on that?

Thank you guys in advance!

[mudpig]

Thanks for the advice I think I'll take it to a gun smith in the reno area and see if they can fit it up a little better. That bolt binding a little when tightened worries me a little can't help but feel the bed and action are fighting each other a little bit they might have too take alittle off the recoil lug not sure but if they do that I think the front action screw might need shaved also. I'll listen to all advice just started shooting savage rifles a year and half or so bought f-class in 6.5x284 the first one went back before I got to the range as I cleaned it before shooting noticed the cleaning rod quit spinning about half way down barrel. there was six inches of rifling missing. Had a new gun in a week and it shoots very well. I then bought my daughter the savage 7.08 youth model with 120 gr bullets get about 3/4 in group with 45gr varget good med size game gun. Muzzle brake and I put a kick ease on it. It came with plastic butt recoil pad my daughter is just tiny no meat on shoulder heck i didn't like it much either but now it's sweet to shoot. She out shoots her boy friend and his friends so they don;t let her shoot targets with them any more. That's all right more time I get to spend shooting with her.

I bought the same 7mm-08 for my wife. I added a decelerator pad to it after chopping 3/4 inch from the butt. I found the Barnes 140TSX with 48gr of W760 shoots 1/3 MOA and 47gr of W760 with 140 Rem Core lok shoot 3/4 MOA for cheap plinking. Should be good for all animals up to elk :)

[Twinsen]

Do not follow these instructions for a new Accustock, as it will destroy the stock.


I just followed these instructions and it destroyed mine. I could not even get the rear screw up to 10 inch pounds. It's a sheet metal screw going into plastic. Trying to go to 40-45 inch pounds is impossible. Before 10 inch pounds the plastic Accustock stripped right out.

Have a nice day.

[thomae]

I just followed these instructions and it destroyed mine. I could not even get the rear screw up to 10 inch pounds. It's a sheet metal screw going into plastic. Trying to go to 40-45 inch pounds is impossible. Before 10 inch pounds the plastic Accustock stripped right out.
Have a nice day.
Since you have resurrected an old thread, let me jump in with a word of explanation:
Originally, the Accustock had three action screws. That design was changed after only about a year or so. Newer (and hence the vast majority of) Accustocks have only two action screws.
The rear action screw is usually hidden under the bolt release button in the front of the trigger guard.

The instructions are still good, but one simply alternates between the two action screws until reaching the desired torque value.

The action screws have a very different head than the small phillips screw that holds the trigger guard, and it is presumed that most people know the difference.
That is not a personal attack, nor am I calling you or anyone else a dummy...I've made lots of mistakes myself.

If that back trigger guard screw gets stripped, the fix is easy. If it were me, I would simply fill the hole with JB Weld or a similar epoxy. Once the epoxy had fully cured, I would drill a new pilot hole for the screw.