Issues with my new Apex 110 25-06

[BadMatrix]

I just unboxed an Apex 110 in 25-06.
I was able to remove the bolt but I’ve got blisters on meh fingers…..trying to get this out. I watched the video…it is ‘t rocket science.

Another thing is this bolt has rust on it NEW IN THE BOX. I don’t see how to add pictures to this post.

What gives? I got it from Dittrich arms.

[Dave Hoback]

Open the bolt. Remove the magazine. Set Safety to “Fire”. Press the bottom bolt release & pull the trigger. Then remove the Bolt.

Use a third party host for pictures. I use https://imgbb.com/ It works very well and is quite easy to use.

Surface rust is normal on many boxed firearms. Once removed, simply use some gun oil & 4/0 Steel Wool to remove the rust. And just keep it lightly oiled.

[BadMatrix]

Open the bolt. Remove the magazine. Set Safety to “Fire”. Press the bottom bolt release & pull the trigger. Then remove the Bolt.

Use a third party host for pictures. I use https://imgbb.com/ It works very well and is quite easy to use.

Surface rust is normal on many boxed firearms. Once removed, simply use some gun oil & 4/0 Steel Wool to remove the rust. And just keep it lightly oiled.
Yup, i don’t know how many times i have tried that.

[Dave Hoback]

If you are doing everything correctly, and something is wrong, your choices are take it to a Gunsmith or perhaps where you purchased it and have them just attempt removing the bolt. Only other option is doing it yourself. The first is to remove the Action screws, and separate the Barreled Action from the stock. This will give you a better look at the trigger & bolt mechanism. Try removing the bolt at this point. If it still is stuck, the trigger & Sear/Bolt Release assembly must be removed. At this point the bolt will slide free as nothing is there to hold it back.

[BadMatrix]

If you are doing everything correctly, and something is wrong, your choices are take it to a Gunsmith or perhaps where you purchased it and have them just attempt removing the bolt. Only other option is doing it yourself. The first is to remove the Action screws, and separate the Barreled Action from the stock. This will give you a better look at the trigger & bolt mechanism. Try removing the bolt at this point. If it still is stuck, the trigger & Sear/Bolt Release assembly must be removed. At this point the bolt will slide free as nothing is there to hold it back.This is a brand new, NIB, rifle. I busted a move and called SAVAGE. They are sending a new stock and new components for the bolt release. The rust they say is packing material. Thx everyone…

[Dave Hoback]

Delete

[Robinhood]

Components for the bolt release? The bolt release is part of the Sear. Aside from that, they aren’t sending you certain parts, like the Sear, unless you are an FFL. Further, they aren’t sending anything under Warranty because a person tells them it’s difficult to remove the bolt. They will want the rifle sent them.


Why call him out Dave. You got him to take another look or reach out to others. Let him save face man. Some have a hard time returning here and admitting it wasn't as hard as they originally thought. Be glad he got it figured out.

[Dave Hoback]

Wasn’t calling anyone & don’t get what he would need to save face from? But since you think it sounds bad, I’ll delete it.

[BadMatrix]

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Why call him out Dave. You got him to take another look or reach out to others. Let him save face man. Some have a hard time returning here and admitting it wasn't as hard as they originally thought. Be glad he got it figured out.
WTHECK, WHAT just happened? What are you folks talking about? I am new to SAVAGE rifles and don’t quite know much about cheap plastic stocks, a firearm NIB, that has the barrel touching the right side of the stock, a bolt that cannot be removed again, packing material that looks like rust. Savage customer service is sending me Whatever TF they are sending me by FEDEX because this cheap POS is afterall NIB. I don’t know what sewing circle I interrupted but this is a lot of drama for my very first post here and introduction to Savage. Cheers.

[charlie b]

Yep, you did hit the sandbox at a bad angle :)

And yes, finish quality is not one of Savage's strong points. But, normally they shoot extremely well, which is what many of us look for.

The plastic stocks on Savages have been a sore point for quite a while. I thought they had finally fixed that in the last redesign, but, I guess not. FWIW, the forward channel is easily fixed, but, I understand the frustration after spending that much money on one of them you should not have to fix anything. Even the 12BVSS I bought new had (laminated wood stock) had to have the barrel channel upened up a bit.

The 'rust' might just be the packing grease they use. The rifles do need a good cleaning before use, especially the barrel. Savage (along with several other mfgs) do not clean the guns after test firing. They just slather on the grease preservative and pack it up.

Why put up with all this from Savage? Because they are usually one of the most accurate rifles on the market for the price.

PS welcome to the Nut house :) (just in cast you don't get it, the Nut refers to the barrel nut as well as the metal state of many of us in here)

[Dave Hoback]

I’m still trying to figure it out as well. I answered a question then made a comment in surprised curiosity based on having just been on the phone with Savage for quite a long time & being told all that by a manager. But it was taken in the wrong context by another so I deleted it for that person being triggered or whatever. (which I’ve done before if someone is bothered by a comment I make.) Though I still don’t understand the comment “let him save face”. It sounds like a synonym for “let them eat cake!” LOL! And my comment was quoted anyway, so I don’t know. I also don’t understand the “sewing circle” or “hitting the sandbox at a bad angle” comments. But then, I am half retarded from brain damage, so some inside jokes fly past my radar.. sorry. :rolleyes:

[BadMatrix]

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I was surprised when the FEDEX TRUCK left a package just now, that was a day early. The new stock and the bolt release mechanism and trigger guard were in the box. Thumbs up for SAVAGE warranty service!

[Dave Hoback]

What is the bolt release mechanism part they sent? I only see the stock & trigger guard.

[KMW1954]

What is the bolt release mechanism part they sent? I only see the stock & trigger guard.

There is included a bolt release button in the trigger guard as opposed to just the trigger guard.

[Dave Hoback]

Ahhhh, I got ya. Yeah, that’s the button, not the actual Bolt Release. The bolt release, is part of the Sear. If you look at your Accutrigger, you can see that leg that drops down to the side, which that button on the trigger guard pushes against. As this is a BBR (Bottom Bolt Release)

Ok, cool.. I was just confused as to what you were referring to. I’ll be honest.. I don’t see those parts actually helping anything, unless the button portion was simply broken? Regardless, I do hope it gets easier for you all the same. Then maybe you can appreciate the accuracy Savages typically provide, and NOT think the 110 is Cheap POS, LOL! :biggrin-new:

[BadMatrix]

I put a number of rounds through this rifle today with the new parts I received. It is a decent rifle but it sure took a lot to rectify the craftsmanship in the stock or lack thereof but one still needs three hands to remove the bolt from the rifle. Overall, I like this rifle a lot but it seemed like working the bolt resulted in bashed knuckles and harsh contact overall. Cheap POS described the rifle before warranty action to replace defective malformed cheap POS plastic ( synthetic) stock---but it's nice.

The action is a bit tight, perhaps because it is new, but I like the precision in the action.

That stock bolt handle is the first thing that has to go-no doubt. The angle of the handle and knob is so different from other rifles I have, like there isn't enough clearance for me between the scope or trigger guard--yeouch. The bolt knob is a regular cheese grater on my hand--really rough and a glaring feature that needs attention. Anyone take a bastard mill file to theirs?? LOL

I think the Anarchy Outdoors black bolt with a smooth black grenade with be very nice and a welcomed addition. The angle I think is 70 degrees and will be a great fit. The setup on the Savage 110 Tactical Desert's bolt handle and knob is very similar. I don't like how relatively sharp the trigger guard's thin edges are. Thicker, rounder, smoother would make for a nice trigger guard.

i like this rifle enough to keep it and see if I can make it my own with some minor but welcomed changes. I almost pull the trigger as it were on the 110 Tactical desert in 6.5 CM yesterday for $602 NIB, but was on the road and now it is $100 more-craptacular. Who out there has an Apex 110 that made any mods they would like to share?

[BadMatrix]

I put almost 60 rounds through this rifle yesterday. I was hitting steel at 300 yards! SHWEET! I guess I should wear shooting gloves when using this rifle

[Turkeytider]

I put a number of rounds through this rifle today with the new parts I received. It is a decent rifle but it sure took a lot to rectify the craftsmanship in the stock or lack thereof but one still needs three hands to remove the bolt from the rifle. Overall, I like this rifle a lot but it seemed like working the bolt resulted in bashed knuckles and harsh contact overall. Cheap POS described the rifle before warranty action to replace defective malformed cheap POS plastic ( synthetic) stock---but it's nice.

The action is a bit tight, perhaps because it is new, but I like the precision in the action.

That stock bolt handle is the first thing that has to go-no doubt. The angle of the handle and knob is so different from other rifles I have, like there isn't enough clearance for me between the scope or trigger guard--yeouch. The bolt knob is a regular cheese grater on my hand--really rough and a glaring feature that needs attention. Anyone take a bastard mill file to theirs?? LOL

I think the Anarchy Outdoors black bolt with a smooth black grenade with be very nice and a welcomed addition. The angle I think is 70 degrees and will be a great fit. The setup on the Savage 110 Tactical Desert's bolt handle and knob is very similar. I don't like how relatively sharp the trigger guard's thin edges are. Thicker, rounder, smoother would make for a nice trigger guard.

i like this rifle enough to keep it and see if I can make it my own with some minor but welcomed changes. I almost pull the trigger as it were on the 110 Tactical desert in 6.5 CM yesterday for $602 NIB, but was on the road and now it is $100 more-craptacular. Who out there has an Apex 110 that made any mods they would like to share?

I have an Apex 110 Storm in .223 that I like VERY much. Almost boringly accurate with loads it likes. Added a cheek pad to give me a better cheek weld and sighting down the scope tube. Also added a larger, screw on bold knob. I would recommend at least a larger knob if not a longer bolt handle to assist with bolt lift. Just the larger knob improved the lift on mine considerably.

[Dave Hoback]

Also added a larger, screw on bold knob. I would recommend at least a larger knob if not a longer bolt handle to assist with bolt lift. Just the larger knob improved the lift on mine considerably.

Your 110 Apex already had an aftermarket bolt handle then. The factory bolt handle & knob are one piece. Would need to turn/machine down & thread the factory handle to install an aftermarket Bolt Knob. Unless by screw on, you are referring to the “clamp on”, or “clam shell” style bolt knobs? Although, for how cost effective they are, I always rec. just getting an aftermarket Bolt Handle/Knob together.

Below is a factory handle I machined & threaded the end the normal 5/16-24. Also machined the knob from Delrin polymer 1” rod.
https://i.ibb.co/6yZzLQM/B579-BCE2-81-F8-4077-AF19-E88805-D67-EF8.jpg (https://ibb.co/yNRt729)

[Turkeytider]

Your 110 Apex already had an aftermarket bolt handle then. The factory bolt handle & knob are one piece. Would need to turn/machine down & thread the factory handle to install an aftermarket Bolt Knob. Unless by screw on, you are referring to the “clamp on”, or “clam shell” style bolt knobs? Although, for how cost effective they are, I always rec. just getting an aftermarket Bolt Handle/Knob together.

Below is a factory handle I machined & threaded the end the normal 5/16-24. Also machined the knob from Delrin polymer 1” rod.
https://i.ibb.co/6yZzLQM/B579-BCE2-81-F8-4077-AF19-E88805-D67-EF8.jpg (https://ibb.co/yNRt729)

Sorry Dave, wasn`t very clear on that. It`s a clam shell type knob. I guess I got the screw on part from the little screws that attach the knob halves together over the original bolt knob. I did think about replacing the entire handle but decided I didn`t want to fight that screw that you have to break loose to remove the original handle. I understand it can be a bear to break loose and I wanted to see if just a larger knob would improve the bolt lift. It did, at least enough to satisfy me.