Savage 110E new Hogue fitment fix suggestions and other questions

[BobAZ]

https://i.ibb.co/Fg3m5SF/Savage-110-E-Rear-Action-Contact-Point-Marked-up-6.jpg (https://ibb.co/bzmQsSk)
https://i.ibb.co/DRtt0HW/Hogue-Savage-110-E-Stock-Marked-up-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/87001Ls)
binary tool (https://usefulwebtool.com/convert-text-to-binary)
I have a Savage 110E that that I bought this for:
787-11117 Hogue Savage Full Length Bed Block Stock
Barrel Diameter: Varmint
Choose Color: Black
Choose Frame Size: LA- Long Action
Choose Style: Top Loading

From the photos it might not be easy to see, but the rear action pillar has 3 raised points for contact that do not contact the action due to what I assume to be extra stock material.
The 3 raised points are circled in pencil, areas where I think there is too much material are circled in red. The rear tang makes full contact before the pillar makes contact. I verified this with modeling clay. The gun shoots horribly, vertical stringing, wild left, spread is 4"-6". Before the change it was a decent shooter.
I know the rear tang needs to float, and it seems reasonable that metal to metal contact on the pillar is what I need to have. Would I need to basically rebuild the pillar, or would bedding material suffice if it is not possible to remove enough material to allow it to settle on the pillar?
What are your thoughts on how to fix this? I sent Hogue some photos and they are supposed to get back to me, I'm not sure if a new stock is needed or if it is expected to have to tweak these after-market stocks. Before I remove any material I plan to talk to them.

Other issues: Bent recoil lug - Having a gunsmith replace the bent recoil lug

https://ibb.co/bzmQsSk https://ibb.co/87001Lshttps://ibb.co/bzmQsSkThank you for your time and expertise, I am not a complete greenhorn when it comes to minor gun mods, but sometimes I wonder if I know just enough to make me dangerous, so please feel free to offer advice. I am a died in the wool DIYer, and this gun has special meaning for me so I plan to do what is necessary to make it at least slightly better than the average deer and elk rifle at ranges that a person of my age should reasonably be shooting game at, say up to about 300 yards. Not trying to make a 1,000 yard rifle here.

[Dave Hoback]

Aftermarket stocks are as “drop in” as a person feels. A user gets one and it shoots well enough for them, gtg. In your case it’s very clear the stock is causing the issue. My opinion is most stocks need some fitting/bedding work. If it were me, yes, I would take down high spots, obvious extra flashing material, pronounced edges, etc. I generally won’t bed Aluminum,, just take down the high spots. But that looks pretty rough. The two tabs almost look like casting tabs & the big circle looks like polymer flashing? So, at least a skim bed might be in order. I would need to see the fit after smoothing.

One other thing. You called yourself a DIY’er. Why are you planning to take it to a smith to replace the Recoil Lug? It’s really easy. I’d doa machined aftermarket Barrel Nut at the same time.

[BobAZ]

I couldn't get the barrel off, tried the wood block trick and it wouldn't hold it.

[Dave Hoback]

Ahh, yeah you really need at least the Action & barrel Wrench & a bench vice. A Barrel Vice actually takes care of many problems, on many firearms.

[Robinhood]

If you don't have the tools or don't know someone with the tools, a gunsmith is your answer on the recoil lug. for the pillar issue I think that the approach should be to put the barreled action in the stock and decide if it is held in the correct location. That will tell you if you can take material off the inlet or if you need to build the pillar up. Honestly, I think calling Hogue and ask them about your issue. You wont know anything until you fix the recoil lug. Also use a .0015" feeler gauge to make sure the action is sitting in the inlet all the way around. If the recoil lug is bent i the action bent also? This could be a can of worms. A close look at your pictures tells a tale. I have many more questions...........

[sharpshooter]

So how does the "L" bracket fit?

[Dave Hoback]

So how does the "L" bracket fit?

Ok, I’ll be the one to ask… What is the “L” bracket?

[GrenGuy]

“L” Bracket. Holds magazine in a blind stock. Rear of action sets on it. Some of us modify it so the rear of the action sets on top of the pillar to minimize stacked tolerances.

Have a “senior moment”, did You Dave ???

[Dave Hoback]

Ohh ok. It was the word bracket throwing me off. I’ve only referred to it a couple times. I guess L-Clip, but any pic I’ve seen, it just a Mag Clip to me. Never paid any attention to “L” I can remember. It’s not even really an L.. more like a funky Z shape.

Don’t think I quite qualify for “Senior Moments”, I’m 44yo. LOL!

[BobAZ]

The L-Clip and everything else fits just fine.
I had the recoil lug replaced and headspace adjusted by a local gunsmith. I did remove just enough soft material from the stock to float the rear tang and lower the action to the point where I believe it is resting on the 3 raised points of the rear aluminum pillar. I debated bedding that pillar so that the action rests on as much material as possible, but I have a hunt coming up and wanted to see if these adjustments helped before I took that step.
I put it back together with the new scope I want to use and went to the range. Tried some 150 gr FMJ's using a recipe my father-in-law used, as well as some Corelokt 150s and they were some better but still not good enough even for hunting. I had loaded some test loads - 150s and 165s with 2 different powders is 2 charge levels, seated 0.050 off the lands, and one performed well. I will hunt with that and after the season go back and fine tune a step at a time to see what is needed to get the best performance out of it.
I will probably seek more advice on what order to make the incremental improvements now that I have a load that actually works well enough for a baseline.
On a side note, I used a Game Reaper one piece scope rail and found conflicting information on torque specs for the scope rings. I went with 18 inch-pounds with no locktite, per one recommendation, the scope loosened after 3 shots, then went to 25 inch-pounds with locktite which has held just fine after 20-30 rounds. Still not clear on whether that is truly the best. For base to gun torque I used the Game Reaper recommendation, 35 if I remember correctly?
This has been an interesting learning experience, I also worked on my shooting technique and am looking forward to seeing how the rifle improves with each step. Great to have access to such a fund of knowledge from experienced professional grade folks - many thanks
BW

[GrenGuy]

My scope manufacturer insists no more than 18” #’s on scope rings. I do 15 with Blue Loctite. I’m not familiar with Your mount, but 25 sounds like a ton? It’s what it does to the scope that matters, and we don’t want to strip anything. Just something to look for. Good Luck

[Dave Hoback]

If you are comfortable with the performance good. However, I do know the Action should be resting on more material than just three raised points. That just seems like a recipe for inconsistency. Hope it works well for you.