Trybe ROCS Q&A thread - Ask me anything before I return it? PICS included

[Revoliver]

Have the trybe rocs short action savage stock in hand and I'd like to answer questions that I've not been able to with internet searching and videos.

**I HAVE ONLY UNBOXED IT, NOT TAKEN IT APART**

Feel free to ask any questions and I'll do what I can to answer them. Though please understand that I have no desire to disassemble or otherwise mar the chassis since I will be returning it.

Initial impression:
Honestly not bad, far more impressive than what I was expecting. The polymer does not feel cheap at all (as I've read in a few reviews). Pretty darn light too. I'm actually really impressed. The comb drop is not as bad as the accustock either, juuust below the oryx's.

Questions I had up until unboxing answered:
It comes with 4 cheek rests of varying heights that you push down into slots along the stock to lock into place (and pry apart and lift to remove).
It comes with 4 length of pull spacers pre installed as well.
It also has a sling swivel/bipod stud pre installed (using nut on the inside of the chassis).
The stock itself is secure, I cannot torque it to turn or make it slide off or more forward.
The ambi magazine release was already preinstalled and the rear action screw is already in the pocket.
Only the front action screw and an offset washer (to accomodate the different screw spacings) are left to install.

My only real gripe with it at this point is still with the stock. You're only option for attaching anything other than the different height cheek rests and LOP spacers is a large hole at the front bottom that is not for QD mounts AFAIK.

[Revoliver]

Lined up so that actual end of stocks match.

https://i.postimg.cc/9XtzSYJL/20220909-194433.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/jdxCrn1t/20220909-195107.jpg

[Revoliver]

LOP spacers and butt pads are the exact same.

[Revoliver]

Attempt to compare to accustock by lining up bolt handle cutout

https://i.postimg.cc/DyXpnm4p/20220909-200219.jpg

[Revoliver]

Not true LOP measurements from end of trigger pocket to end of stock (not including spacers and butt pad) for each

Trybe: 11 1/8"
Oryx: 12 5/16"

[Revoliver]

OOB weights as pictured above

Trybe 3# 4.3oz
Oryx 3# 15.5oz

[Revoliver]

Feel free to ask any questions and I'll do what I can to answer them. Though please understand that I have no desire to disassemble or otherwise mar the chassis since I will be returning it. I'll update my original post as well with this.

[Fuj']

OOB weights as pictured above

Trybe 3# 4.3oz
Oryx 3# 15.5oz

That little extra length and hard panels on the Oryx account for the added weight which
is a good thing especially up front where you can get a bipod mounted much further out
for better stability. Short stocks and long barrels don't mix too well....Not sure how deep
the action gets bedded into the ROC, but the Oryx has a pretty decent height on the spine
for better straight back recoil.

[Revoliver]

That little extra length and hard panels on the Oryx account for the added weight which
is a good thing especially up front where you can get a bipod mounted much further out
for better stability. Short stocks and long barrels don't mix too well....Not sure how deep
the action gets bedded into the ROC, but the Oryx has a pretty decent height on the spine
for better straight back recoil.

I ended up 'cheating' and put the action in both chassis last night.

Regarding the Oryx, I definately appreciate the longer forend (had a spare bipod stud as well) as it definately provides more stability and welcomed hand grip area of the Oryx. Not a fan of the factory grip, it swells in the wrong place for where I want to grip, so I pulled out some spare AR grips and discovered that the Oryx chassis does not accomodate full beavertail AR grips. Not ergo, ati scorpion x2 or even bcm gunfighter mod 3. Guess that's an excuse to get another grip. It's heavy all set up. Definately need to hit the gym if this thing's going hiking with you over mountain tops, but I'm also sure once you set up, that shot's going to be true and you're going to be able to see it through the scope.

Regarding the Trybe ROCS, the forend is functionally the same length as the accustock, bipod mounts in same location and same lack of hand grip area. One thing I noticed is the polymer trigger pocket area doesn't sit flush with the aluminum frame, and the only two screws that seem to attach the two did not tighten this up for me when I figured 'I've gone this far, why not at least snug it up?' and decided to give them a quarter twist each. As a matter of fact, they simply freely spun, so no idea what's going on with them and not interested in finding out more and possibly making things worse. As I posted before, the cheek risers get pushed down from above onto the stock into four slots (two each side) that actually gives you a fair number of options for being able to reverse them and get more forward or aft as well as closer or turther away as there are 3 slots on each side of the top of the stock to choose from (must pick two out of the three). Still have no idea what the giant hole in the front bottom of the stock is for or how to attach anything other than the cheek risers and LOP spacers and butt pad to it though. I like the stock grip as it doesn't have as much palm swell as the Oryx's and allows my hand to grip where I want. I don't think I'd change it.

Hope this helps everyone.

[Revoliver]

I also discovered the reason for my poor shooting last time at the range. My scope rail has come loose. So, I've blue loctited all four screws and retightened everything again, but have also found out that EGW now has larger/better screws so I'm going to replace the scope rail screws and also blue loctite (bed) the rail to the action when they show up.

[Dave Hoback]

The “larger” screws you are thinking of are likely 8-40. If your Action is using 6-48 screws, you can’t simply switch to the larger without drilling/tapping the Action. Which isn’t a problem as long as one has the ability.

[Revoliver]

The “larger” screws you are thinking of are likely 8-40. If your Action is using 6-48 screws, you can’t simply switch to the larger without drilling/tapping the Action. Which isn’t a problem as long as one has the ability.
You are correct, I should have specified the screw heads are larger/longer as they are cupped now instead of flat top. Without removing the screws and checking savage's website (https://savagearms.com/blog?p=how-to-find-the-right-bases-for-a-savage-centerfire-rifle) I do believe that I'm looking for #6-48 screws.