Savage Aftermarket Stock Fitting

[yellowhammer_al]

Hello,

A while back I purchased a short action (4.40" spacing), top bolt release Savage 110 large shank receiver with corresponding bolt and magnum bolt face. My plan from the very beginning was to build a 6.5WSM. I ordered a custom barrel from X-Caliber in 6.5WSM with a 1:8 twist and 5R groove. While I waited for the barrel to be made, I found a 6.5PRC barrel at a steal and mated it to the receiver. I put a Rifle Basix trigger set at 2.5 lbs in and installed the action and receiver into a Savage Accustock i found cheap on eBay with a varmint barrel channel. I used the Savage Short Action Bottom Metal Kit from Accurate-Mag as my bottom metal. The Savage factory 6.5PRC barrel is a tack driver and I really like the feel of the rifle in the Savage Accustock.

The problem I'm having is now that my barrel has come in, it does not fit in the stock. I went with a #28 contour, X-Caliber calls it the Savage Big Varmint contour. It is 1.120" from the shank for 4" then begins to taper down to .810". I have some other Savage rifles in different stocks. I have a MDT LSS-XL stock and a Choate Tactical stock. I do not want another AR-style stock so another MDT is out of the question. I like the Choate stock but it's not compatible with my AI bottom metal and magazines. I called Choate and spoke with Fred and he said they're working on compatibility but who knows when that will be. I was waiting for MagPul to release the Hunter stock for Savage but that keeps getting pushed back (even though they're available directly from Savage on new rifles). So, after looking at my options, I'm thinking of going with a Bord's Pro Varmint stock. Boyd's has an option for a Savage 12 TBR, SA, Detachable Magazine, Bull Barrel... would that fit my build? I'm okay with minor inletting here and there but I'm trying to avoid doing serious work in the barrel channel. Had I realised the X-Caliber barrel was not going to be a drop-in for the Savage Accustock, I would've gone with a smaller profile.

Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping someone out there has a similar barrel profile and experience with the Boyd's Pro Varmint.

Thanks in advance for your replies.

[Dave Hoback]

Most “stocks” are going to need fitting. Stocks are meant to be fitted & bedded. Honestly, I wouldn’t want one that was “drop in”, unless it used an Aluminum Chassis insert.

But to your point, I’m not quite sure what your fear of inletting the channel is?? It’s quite easy & doesn’t hurt anything. I would almost count on some fitting & bedding on the Boyds, but as long as it’s for the 4.40”Action, it will work.

[yellowhammer_al]

I guess my fear comes from never having done it. Growing up my father would put everything in a B&C stock, crank it down to about 35-40lbs and call it good. I've done a little more than that since getting into building my own rifles but I've never had to do barrel channel work, even with some of my heavier profile barrels. I have MagPul Hunter stocks, B&C, Choate, and MDT that have all done well for me, I've had to do some work around the action to get them to be a perfect fit. My main concern is making sure the barrel channel is evenly channeled out and not lopsided (taking too much out of one side versus the other). I'm a little OCD about stuff like that and having never done it, I don't want to spend 3-400 on a laminate stock and then not be happy with it. I really wish I wouldve taken good measurements before hand and made sure the AccuStock would work with the X-Caliber barrel. Could I use one of the barrel channel tools from Brownells on a polymer stock? The AccuStock has a full aluminum bedding block that runs the full length of the stock... I'm not sure if the barrel is thouching there or if it's just on the sides.

[Dave Hoback]

I hear ya. I never did ANYTHING before that I was doing for the first time, LOL!;):redface-new:

Serious though, it’s SO easy! A wood dowel and sandpaper is all it takes. Another trick I use is wrapping the wood dowel with paper as it’s opening up. Paper is a great means of increasing the diameter of the dowel a few thousandths at a time, as the channel opens. There are about half-a-KaJILLION instruction videos & blogs online.

[yellowhammer_al]

Lol.

I think I'm going to move forward with a Boyd's stock. I was planning on cerakoting everything burnt bronze and I think that would look pretty nice with one of their forest camo laminates. Good advice on wrapping the dowel with paper. I want it free floated but I also don't want the barrel swimming in the channel.

Another question, is getting the stock with the pillar beds worth a damn or am I better off doing that myself?

[RCE1]

One method more experienced builders frequently employ is the use of a product known as Inletting Black. It's a black pigment suspended in oil and when painted on a part you are trying to fit, it will contact the tight spots first. Inletting woodwork is a cut-and-try kind of procedure and the use of a marking compound makes it easier to see where the wood needs to be removed first.

Professional Stockmaking, by David L Wesbrook is a very useful guide. My copy has inletting black smeared on several pages. LOL.

People who do a lot of stock fitting frequently will employ power tools like milling machines or mill drills to cut barrel channels, but this is frequently in preparation for glass bedding, so the achievement of a tight fit isn't required or even desired.

[Dave Hoback]

I like doing them myself… but then I like doing everything myself. It’s just a convenience thing. I’d say you can trust Boyd’s to do a decent job with the pillars. Although I’d plan to at least skim bed the front. Better to bed the whole thing in addition to the pillars.

[yellowhammer_al]

Thank you RCE1! I will have to check that out.

[yellowhammer_al]

I like doing them myself… but then I like doing everything myself. It’s just a convenience thing. I’d say you can trust Boyd’s to do a decent job with the pillars. Although I’d plan to at least skim bed the front. Better to bed the whole thing in addition to the pillars.

Sounds good, I went ahead and ordered the Pro Varmint with adjustable comb and pillars. Will give an update when it comes in and I have everything put together.

[Dave Hoback]

“Inletting Black”? How very similar sounding to Prussian or Dykem Blue, LOL! Which I’m sure pretty much everyone knows we machinists, gunsmiths, metalworkers & fabricators have been using since the about the beginning precision fitting two things. Thing to note, the few places you can find it that black layout dye they want $12 for 1/2oz… when you grab 4oz of Dykem Blue for about the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/DYKEM-80300-Steel-Layout-Brush/dp/B01LZZP1VA/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=inletting+black&qid=1657833377&sr=8-9

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/377/1/INLET-BLACK

[RCE1]

“Inletting Black”? How very similar sounding to Prussian or Dykem Blue, LOL! Which I’m sure pretty much everyone knows we machinists, gunsmiths, metalworkers & fabricators have been using since the about the beginning precision fitting two things. Thing to note, the few places you can find it that black layout dye they want $12 for 1/2oz… when you grab 4oz of Dykem Blue for about the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/DYKEM-80300-Steel-Layout-Brush/dp/B01LZZP1VA/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=inletting+black&qid=1657833377&sr=8-9

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/377/1/INLET-BLACK

I believe that Dykem dries on the surface. Inletting black stays liquid for a good transfer. Otherwise, it might work. I bought a tiny little pot of inletting black from Brownells 30 years ago. Still have most of it, and it makes a good dye for epoxy in a pinch.

[charlie b]

To do the barrel channel (if it is not right to start with).

Wrap barrel with a single layer of masking tape (may not be necessary, but, won't hurt). Put barreled action in stock until the barrel just touches. Take some 80-100grit sand paper and wrap around barrel like a shoe shine rag, only with the grit on the 'outside'. Using the pull-pull motion keep working it until the barrel channel is 'free'. Torque down action screws a bit more and repeat. Keep going until the action screws are tight. When you get closer to the end you can change to finer grit paper if you want. You will end up with a nice barrel channel that has about 3/32" to 1/8" gap. (IMHO you want that much gap to give better cooling flow for the barrel).

Don't forget to apply a good wood sealer if you are working on a wood stock.

[Dave Hoback]

Wall, dry vs wet makes do difference. It’s just looking for the rug off. Really, point was it’s more expensive and discontinued. Only a couple places even list it. But yes, you’re correct. A little goes a long way. Tell you the truth, I use a Sharpie marker most of the time. Fitting small parts & such, typically Sharpie marked. Obviously that’d be too little coverage for a stock.

[yellowhammer_al]

While I wait for the Boyd's stock to come in, I think I'm going to open up the barrel channel on the Savage AccuStock. Easily replaceable if I truly mess it up beyond repair and it'll give me a little practice.

[GrenGuy]

yellowhammer, if You have a socket set, the easiest way is to rap some 50 grit sand paper around the appropriate size, and run it up and down the length of the channel You can drop down in grit as You get near to finish. It’s really hard to mess it up.

You Can Do It !

[yellowhammer_al]

yellowhammer, if You have a socket set, the easiest way is to rap some 50 grit sand paper around the appropriate size, and run it up and down the length of the channel You can drop down in grit as You get near to finish. It’s really hard to mess it up.

You Can Do It !

I like that idea. Sounds pretty fool proof.

[Robinhood]

I have never used Dykem for anything but layout work. For contact I use Prussian or Canode spotting inks. I have heard about Dapra. Basicaly something that exposes contact area or high spots. RDE1's suggestion to use inletting black is a sound one.

Your action is 1.350" in diameter. I have used a piece of material slightly smaller with a partial sheet of sandpaper wrapped around it to smooth an inlet out. You need the extra room to put your bedding material in anyway.

[Dave Hoback]

The sky is blue. 2+2=4. Oh, don’t mind me…. Just testing a theory. :blah:

Sockets do work well. Done that here & there. I do like using a wooden dowel more, as one can use a longer piece so more sandpaper is in contact with the barrel channel surface on every pass. Same concept as flattening a sharpening stone. It’s better to use an oversized flattener so the stone is being worked evenly.

[gbflyer]

To do the barrel channel (if it is not right to start with).

Wrap barrel with a single layer of masking tape (may not be necessary, but, won't hurt). Put barreled action in stock until the barrel just touches. Take some 80-100grit sand paper and wrap around barrel like a shoe shine rag, only with the grit on the 'outside'. Using the pull-pull motion keep working it until the barrel channel is 'free'. Torque down action screws a bit more and repeat. Keep going until the action screws are tight. When you get closer to the end you can change to finer grit paper if you want. You will end up with a nice barrel channel that has about 3/32" to 1/8" gap. (IMHO you want that much gap to give better cooling flow for the barrel).

Don't forget to apply a good wood sealer if you are working on a wood stock.

^This.


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[yellowhammer_al]

The sky is blue. 2+2=4. Oh, don’t mind me…. Just testing a theory. :blah:

Sockets do work well. Done that here & there. I do like using a wooden dowel more, as one can use a longer piece so more sandpaper is in contact with the barrel channel surface on every pass. Same concept as flattening a sharpening stone. It’s better to use an oversized flattener so the stone is being worked evenly.

I ended up using a combination of dowel, socket, and Dremel. Didn’t take a whole lot to really open up the plastic stock. I imagine wood is a little more work but overall it was super easy. Didn’t come out perfectly even but I think I’m the only one that notices. Going to post a couple of pictures once I get back on my desktop… phone browser isn’t cooperating.