Savage Aftermarket Stock Fitting

[yellowhammer_al]

https://share.icloud.com/photos/03bNKg2OwOWu_auMUTKfJ_Xaw

[yellowhammer_al]

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0cbQwkcyVlB4bZ4Q04OczoixA

[Dave Hoback]

Yup! Told you how easy it was.;) And no, wood is no more difficult… just as easy. The only reason there is any irregularity in it is because you used a Dremel. Next time; don’t use the Dremel. Take the extra time, and just finish by hand. Slower, but the fit & finish comes out perfect!

Good work partner. Now you done it.:redface-new:

[yellowhammer_al]

Yup! Told you how easy it was.;) And no, wood is no more difficult… just as easy. The only reason there is any irregularity in it is because you used a Dremel. Next time; don’t use the Dremel. Take the extra time, and just finish by hand. Slower, but the fit & finish comes out perfect!

Good work partner. Now you done it.:redface-new:

You're right about the Dremel being the issue. It took out material at a much faster rate than I expected. I was trying to recreate the barrel nut angling original in the stock because I basically made it a straight barrel channel from the barrel nut area forward... I wanted to do this for no other reason except cosmetics and it really wasn't necessary at all. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it and I'll have a nice sythentic option for the rifle for occasions where I may not want to get the wood laminate stock beat up... or for a future build. At least now I can get the new barrel broken in and sight in my scope.

[Dave Hoback]

Cosmetics ARE the only reason. Straight vs Tapered barrel channel makes no difference. Whether the the distance between stock & barrel is 1/8”, 1/4” or even if it was a full inch, makes no difference. If you want an even taper, use the Barrel method as Charlie outlined.

[bsekf]

Use a table saw and cut the barrel channel completely out of the stock. No question it is free floated and air circulates around the barrel better for cooling. You can cut the forend off so it repeats on the front rest. I have actually done this to several stocks to reduce weight. Bedding the action and/or the pillars is another story.

[yellowhammer_al]

Cosmetics ARE the only reason. Straight vs Tapered barrel channel makes no difference. Whether the the distance between stock & barrel is 1/8”, 1/4” or even if it was a full inch, makes no difference. If you want an even taper, use the Barrel method as Charlie outlined.

I was going to touch up the paint after sanding it but didn't really like the stencil job to begin with so I decided to strip it down completely and redo it. I did the scope to match. I think it's going to look really good once I cerakote the barrel and action.

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[Dave Hoback]

Very nice! Oh yeah… I started doing Cerakote over winter/fall. Wish I’d had picked it up sooner.

[RCE1]

You're right about the Dremel being the issue. It took out material at a much faster rate than I expected.

Dremels are one of those things that, used very carefully, can really be a time saver. That being said, there are frequently tools better suited to specific jobs. A good bench vise with room to brace your hands when using the Dremel can keep it under more precise control. A lot of the old timers prefer the control of files and rasps and a contemplative work style. LOL. You'll figure out what works best for you.

[yellowhammer_al]

Dremels are one of those things that, used very carefully, can really be a time saver. That being said, there are frequently tools better suited to specific jobs. A good bench vise with room to brace your hands when using the Dremel can keep it under more precise control. A lot of the old timers prefer the control of files and rasps and a contemplative work style. LOL. You'll figure out what works best for you.

I really think I am going to stick to a contemplative work style and leave the power tools on the charger for any future barrel channel work. I like using my dremel around the action when necessary but its a bit unwieldy in the barrel channel.

[yellowhammer_al]

Very nice! Oh yeah… I started doing Cerakote over winter/fall. Wish I’d had picked it up sooner.

I've found it to be extremely helpful to have my own set up. Cost of a blast cabinet and spray gun was quickly made up with just a few projects. I built my own oven using thermosheet insulation, a heat gun, and oven thermometer. Works beautifully for me.

[Dave Hoback]

I've found it to be extremely helpful to have my own set up. Cost of a blast cabinet and spray gun was quickly made up with just a few projects. I built my own oven using thermosheet insulation, a heat gun, and oven thermometer. Works beautifully for me.

Heat gun huh? Interesting. I used an Oven element that I bent into an elongated shape for my curing oven. Used ceramic wool & foil for insulating. Made a thread here when I built it. I do agree; love having my own setup to do the Cerakote myself.

[yellowhammer_al]

Heat gun huh? Interesting. I used an Oven element that I bent into an elongated shape for my curing oven. Used ceramic wool & foil for insulating. Made a thread here when I built it. I do agree; love having my own setup to do the Cerakote myself.

I’ll have to look up that thread. Have you used any of the air cure stuff yet?

[Dave Hoback]

I’ll have to look up that thread. Have you used any of the air cure stuff yet?

Nah, just the H-series. This was my first project with it. The Barreled Action I did “Armor Black” and the Chassis I’m doing in “Tactical Grey”.

[yellowhammer_al]

Nah, just the H-series. This was my first project with it. The Barreled Action I did “Armor Black” and the Chassis I’m doing in “Tactical Grey”.

I'm interested in seeing how the air cure cerakote holds up in comparison.

[Dave Hoback]

I'm interested in seeing how the air cure cerakote holds up in comparison.

Have read it’s pretty good, but not as tough as the H series. Even the H-series is not indestructible. It’s good, but where I’m fitting the Action in the Chassis, it’s rubbing some edges. To me, the Cerakote is just really good paint. It lays really nice & looks great.
So I wouldn’t hesitate to use the Elite series.

[yellowhammer_al]

Have read it’s pretty good, but not as tough as the H series. Even the H-series is not indestructible. It’s good, but where I’m fitting the Action in the Chassis, it’s rubbing some edges. To me, the Cerakote is just really good paint. It lays really nice & looks great.
So I wouldn’t hesitate to use the Elite series.

So my Boyd's stock came in and it fits beautifully. Doesn't need absolutely any work along the barrel channel and the action fits nice and tight, I am glad I went with the pillar option. I am going to take some time this week to get everything mated up, torqued down, and take it to the range this weekend and see how it does. Will upload some pics soon.

[jkv45]

So my Boyd's stock came in and it fits beautifully. Doesn't need absolutely any work along the barrel channel and the action fits nice and tight, I am glad I went with the pillar option. I am going to take some time this week to get everything mated up, torqued down, and take it to the range this weekend and see how it does. Will upload some pics soon.


Good to hear!

I'd like to see what the pillar option looks like.

[Dave Hoback]

Awesome news partner! Definitely post pics!

[yellowhammer_al]

Awesome news partner! Definitely post pics!

Decided to keep this set up in the Savage stock I painted up. I have a new action for the Boyd's stock that will go in it as soon as I get the bottom metal in. I thought I would love the forest Camo laminate with the Midnight Bronze but I really don't, think I'm going to do either Armor Black or Sniper Grey with it. Anyway, here's the Midnight Bronze action and barrel all done in the Savage stock.

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