Can an older straight slot BAS be replaced with the current hex BAS?

[Tannhauser]

I have an older 110 with a flat back receiver. The bolt has a straight slot Bolt Assembly Screw.

in the event I ever manage to disassemble the bolt, can this slotted screw be replaced with the newer version that uses a hex wrench?

[Dave Hoback]

Yes, it can. The thread size is 1/2-28. GunShack sells the factory BAS here. https://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts?product_id=2894

This is the one I just picked up. These are incredible! Made of 6AL4V Titanium. It’s actually a Lift Kit as well. I wish sold JUST the BAS by itself. https://lumleyarms.us/savage-bolt-lift-kit-old

I use the Lumley Ti Bolt Handle as well.

[twarren]

Good to know,Thanks Dave

[Tannhauser]

Yes, it can. The thread size is 1/2-28. GunShack sells the factory BAS here. https://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts?product_id=2894

This is the one I just picked up. These are incredible! Made of 6AL4V Titanium. It’s actually a Lift Kit as well. I wish sold JUST the BAS by itself. https://lumleyarms.us/savage-bolt-lift-kit-old

I use the Lumley Ti Bolt Handle as well.

Thanks for the clarification. I could not find anywhere if Savage had changed thread size or pitch between the two BAS types.

Any advice on a tool and method to disassemble the slotted BAS? I’ve read Savage tends to have gorillas install them, and mine seems to be no exception, but I don’t have a good tool to apply any serious torque to it. The largest screwdriver I gave handy isn’t a good fit, and I don’t want to chew up the slot with a poorly fitting blade slipping.

[Blue Avenger]

All of mine have been switched out for allan wrench screws. Trimmed and added the .357case and bearing to them.

[Dave Hoback]

Oh yeah…a screwdriver ain’t gonna cut it! What might work is a flat blade driver bit in a socket on a breaker bar. Couple things: make certain you “trip” the firing pin. This takes the heavy load off the spring. Also, try to Tighten the screw first. Just a degree or two. I know this sounds counter intuitive, but it’s an old trick used by professional mechanics for years & years. (Guilty) It’s easier to break the corrosion sealing the screw by “tightening” than it is by “loosening”.

Something like these two would work nicely if you are unable to make something: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J5408A-Slotted-Screwdriver/dp/B005YT186W/ref=sr_1_50?crid=32FNBEG8LO42O&keywords=Large+flat+driver+bit&qid=1654968875&sprefix=large+flat+driver+bit%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-50

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00200A-Extension-Chrome-Vanadium-Rotating/dp/B002GQ1O7E/ref=sr_1_4?crid=DSWPB2MMF5MI&keywords=1%2F2”%2Bbreaker%2Bbar&qid=1654969020&sprefix=1%2F2%2Bbreaker%2Bbar%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-4&th=1

[Dave Hoback]

Where bouts you located? If you’re anywhere near South Suburbs of Philadelphia, my offer to help is always open. Free of charge.

[PhilC]

The largest screwdriver I gave handy isn’t a good fit, and I don’t want to chew up the slot with a poorly fitting blade slipping.
Take your bolt to a hardware store and get a hollow ground screwdriver bit that fits correctly, will save you a lot of frustration. ;-)

[Tannhauser]

Where bouts you located? If you’re anywhere near South Suburbs of Philadelphia, my offer to help is always open. Free of charge.

I appreciate the offer. I’m located in Virginia near Alexandria west of DC. So a bit of a drive. I’m going to see if I can find a proper but to fit my breaker bar. With a good bit I’ll try to dial the BAS in Kroil and maybe apply some heat.

[Dave Hoback]

If your breaker bar is 1/2” Drive, this link I posted will work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J5408A-Slotted-Screwdriver/dp/B005YT186W/ref=sr_1_50?crid=32FNBEG8LO42O&keywords=Large+flat+driver+bit&qid=1654968875&sprefix=large+flat+driver+bit,aps,71&sr=8-50