Front Screw Specs for SSS Monte Carlo Sporter

[kohler]

8529
I could use a new front screw for a top release SSS Monte Carlo Sporter. Anyone know the specs?
I
Pretty sure I didn’t use correct bit and stripped out head trying to get to 65 inch pounds over three or four stock removals.

I may just send a self addressed envelope with a few bucks to SSS if sourcing isn’t straightforward.

Thanks

[Dave Hoback]

1/4-28 Dome Head screw. 1-1/4” long, but I always get extra long Titanium screws & custom fit each screw length.

If you want, you can just buy these.
https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/accessories/savage-screw-set-blueda0fc0

[GrenGuy]

8529
I could use a new front screw for a top release SSS Monte Carlo Sporter. Anyone know the specs?
I
Pretty sure I didn’t use correct bit and stripped out head trying to get to 65 inch pounds over three or four stock removals.

I may just send a self addressed envelope with a few bucks to SSS if sourcing isn’t straightforward.

Thanks

If You don’t mind My asking, why 65 inch pounds ? Your stock screws look like they are stainless steel, which are softer than the blue steel ones. What, the more torque the better?

[Dave Hoback]

Honestly speaking, the screws being SS over Alloy Steel aren’t the limiting factor with 65 in.lbs. Looks like a laminated wood stock, am I right? 65in.lbs is WAY too much torque for ANY wood stock, even laminate. It is prone to more creep. 65in.lbs is Aluminum Chassis territory, and even that is too high for many.

[Dave Hoback]

This is the company I use for all my screws. This is the 1-1/4” button head screw that will work.

https://www.ti64.com/product-p/5207.htm

[Robinhood]

This is the company I use for all my screws. This is the 1-1/4” button head screw that will work.

https://www.ti64.com/product-p/5207.htm

Dave, Do you use those screws as is sans cutting them to length?

[Dave Hoback]

Not quite sure what you mean Robin? I don’t understand the phrase, “as is sans cutting them to length?”I’ve used Chassis’ for many years now, so I use the Cap Head screws, like below. I make sure I get them long enough so that every thread in the Action screw hole is taken up. I make certain the screw comes right to the end of the hole on the inside of the Action. If that makes any sense.


https://i.ibb.co/5M67pdM/CAC5-BDB0-7-E71-48-F0-8505-9-B8-F49-EEF577.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)

[Robinhood]

Not quite sure what you mean Robin? I don’t understand the phrase, “as is sans cutting them to length?”I’ve used Chassis’ for many years now, so I use the Cap Head screws, like below. I make sure I get them long enough so that every thread in the Action screw hole is taken up. I make certain the screw comes right to the end of the hole on the inside of the Action. If that makes any sense.https://i.ibb.co/5M67pdM/CAC5-BDB0-7-E71-48-F0-8505-9-B8-F49-EEF577.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)

What I meant was, are there any other modifications to the screws besides cutting to length?

[Dave Hoback]

Ahh.. gotchya! No, not that I’m aware of off hand. Although, the factory Action screws are more like Pan Head style screws. In past years, I’ve used Button Head screws in place of factory Pan Head on several other firearms, and other projects. The only thing that be needed is if the diameter of the head is slightly to large. If so, just Chuck it up in a drill against some 400grit sandpaper. Easy peasy, lemon-squeezy!

[Robinhood]

Yeah sometimes my words do my intended question justice. That is exactly what i was talking about. I machine all of my heads to .375 so they fit factory stocks and most chassis, seems like that is the magic number. The ones I use require machining. I didn't know if you had to do that on the TI screws.

[Dave Hoback]

I’ve run into it before, years ago. I can’t say for certain if it’s needed for these, as I haven used the Buttonhead with a standard stock. But, easy enough for anyone. Like you, yes, I to would machine them all nice & purdy’. But anyone can spin them in a drill against a file, sandpaper, etc.

Huh… maybe I should should grab a few of each & machine them to that .375”. Offer them out. Maybe an interest in an upgrade kit like that.

[kohler]

Thanks, gents. 65 was the number I printed off some years ago as the collective wisdom with pillar bedded stocks. I can back off.

[Dave Hoback]

Well, not for nothin’, but if this has been your norm for some time & it’s been working for you, I wouldn’t change a thing. I’ll say this, I’m not one of the believers in messing with different screw torque values because of “harmonic frequency” razz-a-ma-jazz. I believe in stock “creep”, which is the movement between the stock/chassis & Action. That’s it. From testing I’ve researched, I believe in using the highest torque value possible, shy of stress/warpage. But that’s just me. To the shooter who has gone through the gambit of +/- torque values and found using X in.lbs. Front & Y in.lbs. Rear to be best…we’ll, they should certainly stick with that!

So, I apologize if I sounded like I was telling you what you’re doing is wrong. Absolutely not my intention. If this was a first torque setting on a new setup(which is what it sounded like), I would recommend less. But again, if you’ve been doing this for some time, on THIS setup with good results… keep on keepin’ on brother!:redface-new:

[kohler]

Dave, I appreciate the knowledge. That’s why I joined, plus the humor some contribute.