6mm Creedmore Build

[AlexV4RR]

Looking for some general opinions, ideas and advice.

The general goals of the rifle are to be varmint and deer hunting and long range target practice. Varmints down to about gophers. I would like to have be about .25-.625 MOA.

I am looking the 6mm Creedmore as I have a 22 Nosler in a ar15 platform. I am open to other ideas such as 22-250 AI or 22 Creedmore.

I am looking at the predator model in 6.5 Creedmore which I can find for about $1100. I would then be swaping the barrel.

The barrel would be a custom barrel with a fast twist 1-7.5 to 1-8 depending on the cartridge with about 24" maybe 22" length barrel. Probably preferred barrels and that is $480-600.

I would be hand loading and would like to run a bit heavier bullets 65-110 grain for longer range and deer.

Any tools I would need, Is the barrel nut any different and I would need the caliber gauge for setting up the barrel.

General input and thoughts would be awesome or alternatives.

[RCE1]

I got a Predator not too long ago in.308 (that was all I could get at the time...) with the idea of converting it to 6 Creed. I took it to the range with some old handloads and the thing shot well enough that I'm going to work with it as a .308 for a while. At least do a ladder test. Does anybody know what shank size the Impulse Predator in .308 will accept? Has anyone rebarreled one? Is the process of headspacing more difficult than a standard bolt action, given the ball bearings vs lugs? I've replaced a number of barrels in conventional bolt actions and am comfortable with the process.

I actually find the AccuTrigger to be a very comfortable design once I worked on the spring a little bit. Pretty acceptable and what I did took very little time and effort.

The AccuFit stock even doesn't bother me that much. I just pulled out the sling swivel on the forend and replaced it with a GrovTech flush mount. It went really well. There is a significant amount of aluminum in the forend to give what seems to be a good mount. I had to place the flush mount in the same area as the OEM swivel because of the rubber grip material on the sides of the forend. Not quite sure how I'm going to put a GrovTech in the rear as the stock is too narrow at the bottom and I'm not sure if the inside of the buttstock will be solid enough to put it on the side.

[hamiltonkiler]

.223


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[wbm]

The general goals of the rifle are to be varmint and deer hunting and long range target practice.

The 6MM Creedmoor would fit within those goals nicely. 55gr for varmints 115gr for deer.

[deadduck357]

Love the 6mm Creed, not so much the Impulse action. Maybe just need to give it more time working the action to get use to it. Seems a little tough to unlock.

[AlexV4RR]

Ya, I have an Impulse in 300 win mag and I really like how it runs. I also shoot left handed so that really is nice! It actually runs better the harder you run it.

[AlexV4RR]

The 6MM Creedmoor would fit within those goals nicely. 55gr for varmints 115gr for deer.


Nice! Ya I went ahead and ordered it. I am currently looking into barrels! Any suggestions for that?

[AlexV4RR]

I got a Predator not too long ago in.308 (that was all I could get at the time...) with the idea of converting it to 6 Creed. I took it to the range with some old handloads and the thing shot well enough that I'm going to work with it as a .308 for a while. At least do a ladder test. Does anybody know what shank size the Impulse Predator in .308 will accept? Has anyone rebarreled one? Is the process of headspacing more difficult than a standard bolt action, given the ball bearings vs lugs? I've replaced a number of barrels in conventional bolt actions and am comfortable with the process.

I actually find the AccuTrigger to be a very comfortable design once I worked on the spring a little bit. Pretty acceptable and what I did took very little time and effort.

The AccuFit stock even doesn't bother me that much. I just pulled out the sling swivel on the forend and replaced it with a GrovTech flush mount. It went really well. There is a significant amount of aluminum in the forend to give what seems to be a good mount. I had to place the flush mount in the same area as the OEM swivel because of the rubber grip material on the sides of the forend. Not quite sure how I'm going to put a GrovTech in the rear as the stock is too narrow at the bottom and I'm not sure if the inside of the buttstock will be solid enough to put it on the side.


I think its the small shank barrel. I know all the savage release of the impulse had that in it. I actually think the ball bearings should make it better to rebarrel.

I like the accustock too but one thing is that I would like the grip about 1/4" toward the trigger. Maybe I just need to get used to it

I think there is actually two holes if you wanted to drill out your stock. the aluminum part in the for end has an other hole already tapped in my 300.

[AlexV4RR]

So now I have bought the rifle and it will be coming in about a week ish. So looking into the following things

1) Ill want to do a trigger job on it. any advice or insight would be awesome. I have a bunch of 3000 grit sand paper but I dont think I have stones

2) I am looking at barrels. I am thinking a 24" length for sure.
I am thinking 1-8 twist because I want to be able to run lighter bullets, 55gr at the lowest. I would also like to be able to run a 100-112 gr match or hunting bullets. Though I suspect I will be running a lot of the 65-95gr bullets.

I am looking a preferred barrels, most likely the taperless 0.850 with straight flutes to keep the weight down a little. Will that have enough material to keep the barrel reasonably cool during a range day or shooting a lot of gophers on a warm day. I am in montana so its not hot like texas hahah

3) what optic? I dont mind FFP. I have a zeiss v6 3-18 with their zbr-2 and I love that but for longer range small targets a 20-25x would be nice. But I do need to have 3x for close range deer hunting. Any suggestions? that are not insanely expensive but on par with the V6?

[RCE1]

I did notice the second drilled and tapped hole in the aluminum "chassis" insert. I left if sealed up. I don't care much for sling swivels that protrude beneath the stock as they interfere with the pedestal and rear bag rest setups I like to work with. If I decide to install a bipod, there are adapters to convert the QD GrovTech sockets I've installed to a stud which can be interfaced with many types of bipods. I removed the OEM stud from the butt as well. Plugged the hole with JB Weld and installed QD sockets on both of the flat sides. The plastic in that area is very robust, but I thought it best to install the QD sockets that are held by a nut inside, as well as JB Weld. They are designed for hollow applications.

There is a piece of styrofoam inserted in the butt, probably to damp vibrations and seem less hollow. Might be worth it to replace it with some kind of expanding foam. Or maybe not. LOL.

[AlexV4RR]

I did notice the second drilled and tapped hole in the aluminum "chassis" insert. I left if sealed up. I don't care much for sling swivels that protrude beneath the stock as they interfere with the pedestal and rear bag rest setups I like to work with. If I decide to install a bipod, there are adapters to convert the QD GrovTech sockets I've installed to a stud which can be interfaced with many types of bipods. I removed the OEM stud from the butt as well. Plugged the hole with JB Weld and installed QD sockets on both of the flat sides. The plastic in that area is very robust, but I thought it best to install the QD sockets that are held by a nut inside, as well as JB Weld. They are designed for hollow applications.

There is a piece of styrofoam inserted in the butt, probably to damp vibrations and seem less hollow. Might be worth it to replace it with some kind of expanding foam. Or maybe not. LOL.

Ya, I havent drilled mine out yet either. I may do it because then my sling will have better movement on the bipod adapter.

Just out of curiosity do you have the 6mm creedmoor barrel still?

[RCE1]

Yes. A Criterion Prefit that seemed to perform well on a 10GRS I had for a while. The new owner got himself a fast twist .243 which we installed. He doesn't choose to handload at this time, but I'm working on him...

[AlexV4RR]

Got the rifle finally! I can confirm that my 6.5 creed barrel was savage standard/small shank barrel. Also Ill have 20in 6.5 creedmoor barrel for sale.

The biggest thing will now be to weigh all the parts and get a barrel coming.

So far the barrel weighs about 3-3.5 lbs.

I am looking for advice on some of the barrel I have been looking at.

I am looking at carbon fiber because of the weight savings. I wont be doing a ton of long strings of shooting.

So far I have looked at proof barrels and X caliber. I am doing a 24" barrel with the 6mm creedmoor. twist will be between 7.5-8. Does anyone have any experience with these barrels?

[shoots100]

While I like the 6cm for competition shooting, I would go with a 243 if your going to be using it for more practical usage.
The only advantage the 6cm has over the 243, is that the case is shorter and the barrels have a faster twist, so it can shoot the heavier/longer high BC bullets very fast.
Most of those bullets are made for competition, not for hunting.
The drawback to pushing that heavy bullet so fast out of a small hole in a case that has a 20 degree shoulder, is a very diminished barrel life.
Speed comes with a price tag and if your ok knowing that you'll be changing barrels every couple of years, if you watch your round count, go for the 6cm.
If you want to download the 6cm to give it better barrel life, you just made your 6cm a 243.
.243 feeds better from magazines too.
This is why I bought a .243 predator and am re-barreling it with a 20" X-caliber CF 1-9 twist barrel in , you guessed it, .243.