Help the newbie

[Ajwatts88]

Hello all, I’m new to customizing my firearms. And I want to start with my model 16. Its a lightweight hunter in 6.5 creed and I’m not liking the thin barrel and flimsy stock. My question is how easy are the barrels to change and what all do I need to to change one? I’ve seen the prefit barrels and can get a deal on a new proof carbon fiber barrel to keep it light. Also how would I go about getting a stock to fit the larger barrel diameter? Keeping the detachable magazine doesn’t matter me. Don’t be shy on telling what you would do if it was yours. The ideas of the experienced are greatly valued. Thanks in advance on any words of wisdom.

[Dave Hoback]

I didn’t mean you had to transfer your entire post from Introductions my friend... That’s why I answered you there. I just meant if there was any other questions after I answered. But you get the backups now. :surprise:

My post from the other thread:
Welcome. You want to ask these questions in the 110 series Forum here. But I’ll answer since you asked. You need at the very least, an Action & Barrel nut wrench set (https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=wrench%20set). And a Go Gauge to set headspace. There are many options in stocks. Boyd’s is popular for the affordability and they make a decent product. There are also many Chassis’ to choose from. Barrels are either Small(aka: Regular) or Large Shank. Besides that, stocks are fit by Long or Short Action, Blind mag or Detachable mag with bottom metal, and Top or Bottom bolt release

[cdherman]

watch some videos about screwing the old barrel off to get an idea if you have what it takes. I think I'd add that in addition to a barrel wrench and action wrench, you better have a workshop with at least a 6" metal vice. A good woodworking bench with vice might also be enough. But you have to hold that action wrench in place somehow to unscrew the nut.

I also made some barrel blocks out of oak. So I could hold onto the barrel during the final tightening of the nut. The barrel will try and screw into the action, in my experience. Can end up messing up your headspace. Probably less of a problem if you are using a proper GO gauge. I use a fully sized piece of brass with two layers of scotch tape. Frowned on by the purists, but works. But the tape is compressible.

I have two Proof carbon Prefits. One in 7mm RM, one in 6.5 x 284. They are my best shooting barrels, beating my Shilen and Bartlein, albeit only slightly.

Lots of stock choices. You can go cheap with a nice laminated stock from Boyd's. You might have to open the barrel channel a smidge. Or hunt for an accustock take off for really cheap. After cheap, your options are legion. All the way up over $1000. I have a couple XLR chassis that cost in the $750 range. The carbon Proof barrels are in Chassis. Look mean as heck. Also shoot really well. Maybe the chassis makes a difference? I am planning on dropping a 6.5 Creed with the Bartlein heavy barrel into XLR chassis and seeing if it shoots better. Doubtful the 6.5 Creed is in a laminate Boyds stock, pillar bedded.

I open up stocks for larger barrels using a jig I made with wood and a router (of the wood type!). You can do hack job with sandpaper, a wood gouge, or a rasp. I have metric and SAE deep well socket ets. Between the two sets, I've always been able to find a socket that I can wrap 60 grit sand paper around to make a perfect sized round sanding block, for finish work.

Well, those are some thoughts for you. There are tons of threads about this an videos too. Look at some vids and post back what you don't understand.

Good luck